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First it has to be good and straight where it was bent, no knuckles on the pin. Also be certain that if a castle nut is being used that the nut is turned to wher the pin is not in a bind againist one of the castle slots. It should come out under these circumstances. There is a hooked tool called a cotter pin remover that is helpful if it will fit and you have the room for it. Good luck
Just remove the wheel/tire, then remove the dust cap, remove the cotter pin and then remove the nut that holds the brake drum/hub assembly onto the spindle. Then remove the grease seal on the backside of the hub and remove the bearing. Wipe them off, inspect them for discoloration and flaking of the rollers, if good then just pack new grease into the bearings and re-install the bearing into the hub and install a new grease seal, then place the hub/drum back on the spindle and install the outer bearing and the nut, tighten to spec and install the outer nut cotter pin keeper thingy. bend the cotter pin and cut off the excess so the dust cap will fit on and tap it into place. Re-install wheel/tire and torque lugs to spec.
It is a generic Nissan brake light switch replacement procedure... the brake light switch on a Nissan Altima i.e. controls the illumination of the brake lights. Without the switch, the lights would not go on. The switch has no service life, so when it goes, it usually happens suddenly. New brake light switches can be obtained from Nissan or from a Nissan dealership.
1. Remove the cotter pin from the pin bolt that holds the brake pedal to the brake booster with a pair of pliers. There is a small cotter pin running through the brake pedal to brake booster connection. You need to pull this cotter pin out to remove the larger pin that holds the brake pedal to the brake booster. 2. Slide the pin out of the brake booster mounting bracket. 3. Pull up on the brake pedal to slide it out of the brake booster mounting bracket. 4. Remove the bolts holding the brake switch to the firewall using a socket wrench. 5. Remove the electrical connector on the brake switch by pulling it straight off the switch. 6. Slide the switch off the firewall. 7. Install the new switch. Installation is the reverse of removal. Make sure that you replace the cotter pin in the brake booster to brake pedal connection. The cotter pin prevents the retaining pin in the brake booster mounting bracket from coming off.
Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Support the front end.
Remove the wheel cover, if equipped.
Remove the grease cap.
Check the wheel bearings for sufficient grease.
Remove the cotter pin and retaining washer. Back off the spindle nut. Discard the cotter pin.
Adjust the wheel bearings as follows:
Tighten the spindle nut to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm) while rotating the brake disc clockwise to seat the wheel bearings.
Back off the nut 2 full turns.
While rotating the disc counterclockwise, tighten the nut to 17-24 ft. lbs. (23-34 Nm).
Back off the spindle nut about 1 / 2 turn.
Tighten the spindle nut to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Install the retaining washer so the castellations are aligned with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
Check the wheel and tire assembly for proper rotation, then install the grease cap. If the wheel still does not rotate properly, inspect and clean or replace the wheel bearings and cups.
Install the wheel cover, if equipped.
Lower the vehicle.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.
To check the wheel bearing adjustment, raise the front of the vehicle. Grasp the tire at the sides, and alternately push inward and pull outward on the tire. If any looseness is felt, adjust the front wheel bearings as follows.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove the hub cap from the hub.
Remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut.
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 21 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) to seat the bearings.
Back off the adjusting nut until loose (120-180 degrees).
While rotating the wheel, tighten the adjusting nut to 18 inch lbs. (2Nm). Torque required to rotate the hub should be 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
Install the castellated nut and insert a new cotter pin.
oh yea sounds like there still in there alright!!!, tip the unit back if possible and give a look underneath, you see2 or 3( depending on model) plastic tubes approx 2in long mounted to the under carriage around the base. They are there for the sole purpose of "catching" the cotter pins after pulling the rip cord. there should be a cotter pin in each of the tubes. if you see any empty ones look directly above it and youll find the pin, you may have to manually grab the cotter pin to release it withe a set of needle nose pliers or something but the definitely need to be removed.