Question about Audio Players & Recorders
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Buzzing from speakers
First, let's distinguish a buzz from a hum. A hum is a clean, 60 cycle signal that sound like a tone. A buzz is 60 cycle noise created when the power filtering circuit is not doing it's job. This is basically a 60 cycle hum, but because of the way the faulty filter reacts, it "distorts" the signal slighly and is a buzz. Trust me on this if you don't want a full electronic explanation. If you are curious and would like one, email me seperately.
If it is a buzz, chances it is the filter capacitors, but lets not jump to that conclusion yet, this can only be fixed by a professional, so let's try the free fixes first!
You might have 1) a ground loop, 2) faulty house AC. What is the age of your house? Are you using any three prong to two prong adapter? If so get ride of them.
But the first obvious thing is to look inside the unit and see how dusty it is. UNPLUG FROM WALL before opening. Use a can of compressed air if necessary. Now try. Dust build-up causes static electricity with can play havoc with electronic componenets, but normally not 60Hz, but it's worth a try.
Before I get into the ground loop, do you have any flouescent lights in the area? These use transformers which tend to put a 60Hz buzz through wiring it is directly attached to, but only when on.
Check if this buzz is consistant with any selected device (DVD, CD, Radio, etc.). If it is true of all, continue on, if of one, disconnect that particular device and see if it stops. Just turning off a device still keeps it in the elctrical loop...
A ground loop can be caused by a broken wire. It is important that every compnent be grounded to a single point. With a broken wire this can cause multiple paths to ground. disconnect everything, all components from the receiver, antennas, any cable running to another component, etc Just leave the main speakers hooked to the receiver and turn it on. Hopefully you have "audio snow" but no buzz. This method is called isolating the problem. If the buzz disappears skip to the 2nd paragraph. If you still have a buzz: unplug unit from wall, try a 3-2adapter into the wall. If this works, you have a faulty ground. Bring receiver into another room and try. Same result with buzz? (with or without 3-2). Go to a hardware store and purchase a ground fault indicator and make sure your house wiring is OK. Very inexpensive part. You simply plug it in a the lights tell the story. Usually two yellow lights and one red. Both yellow on indicate everything is fine.
Up until this point I am taking it for granted tht the power cord from the receiveris three pronged. If it is NOT, try running a thin wire from the outlet (attach using the center screw that hold the outlet cover in place) to a screw on the receiver. It would not hurt to try this even if it is a three pronged connector in case there is a broken ground within the unit.
Hook up and test each component until you hit the one the causes the buzz. When this happens, try using a different cable as this one is probably broken. If it doesn't stop, try what we tried for the receiver, if it is a three prong electrical plug, use a 3-2 adapter, still buzzing, now try adding the extra thin wire between the two compnents.If it a two prong, add the ground wire from the component to the receiver.
If all else fails it needs to go into the shop. But I will say this. Compare the cost of getting an estimate/repair with purchasing a new unit. It might actually be less...
Hope this helps,
Posted on Jan 14, 2008
The headphone is tapped before the final stage of the amp, so knowing that those work properly helps to isolate the problem. I think that this model uses an IC for the voltage amp section prior to the final amp stage. That being said, the IC is probably an UPC2598 (if memory serves). I'll confirm tonight. Try resoldering any connections that appear to be grainy or have rings. Let me know what you find.
Posted on May 08, 2008
The most common problem found on FixYa for Audio Video
My receiver say's "Protect" or turns on then off. What's wrong? Seven times out of ten it is a shorted speaker or speaker wire. To determine your exact problem, the first step is to disconnect all speaker wires "at your receiver" Next: Turn the receiver back on. If your receiver still says "protect" or turns off, it needs to be serviced. If your receiver stays on; reconnect your speakers one at a time and power back up after each speaker. You may find that after reconnecting all speaker wires it works! Most commonly the small braids of wire from the + to the - have touched and have caused the problem. In some instances, you noticed the problem only when turning the volume up. either way, make sure the exposed wires to your receiver are no longer than 1/2" long and are completely under the screw down terminal or slide in. When you've found the wire or speaker with the problem, your receiver will go back into "protect" At this point, disconnect the wire from the speaker at the speaker that may be causing the problem then test again.* Note* Make sure speaker wires do Not touch each other as this Will cause a short! If you turn the receiver back on and it stays on, you now know the problem is in your speaker itself. To test your speaker, you will need a multimeter. Set it to ohms resistance and touch the speaker terminals, if there is a short internally the meter will read "1......" If it's an analog meter, it will peg to the right. There's your problem. Now, within any speaker there are quite a few possibilities as to what could be causing the problem. Most common is a blown coil and the speaker needs to be replaced. Some speakers have internal crossovers (usually floor standing speakers) and may have a shorted or burnt board (usually very visible brown burn marks on the board) and can possibly be repaired if your handy with a soldering iron. Now, if you disconnect the speaker wire at the speaker and it still says "protect" Check your wire for the obvious cut or nail thru the wire if possible. If your system has wiring that runs behind walls, you may need to use your meter again. Disconnect the wire at both ends, keep the ends separated, put your meter on ohms resistance and touch probes to the + and - wires at one side. If the meter pegs to the right or reads "1...." the wire is shorted and needs to be replaced or repaired at the short. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
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