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After defrosting the freezer the whole fridge doesn't work (is warm!)

The freezer was defrosted two days ago and once the cycle was over the button clicked out but the fridge never went back to being cold (and went warm instead!) -- even when the temperature was cranked up to full cold. There is a clicking noise coming from the back of the fridge, but nothing kicks in.

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Re: After defrosting the freezer the whole fridge doesn't...

Sounds like the compressor is locked up or the relay on the compressor is bad. whats happening is its drawing too much current and cutting out from the overlaod relay. that may be a bad compressor or the start relay. both the overload and the relay are under the black box on the front of the compressor. you will need to check the relay to make sure its good, and also the compressor. there should be a wiring diagram on the back that will tell you how many ohms from terminal to terminal on the compressor. hope it helped if its a newer unit the relays are electronic and if you shake it and hear like little sand pebbles in it most likley its bad and thats why it wont run.

Posted on Aug 10, 2007

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Freezer cools well, refirgator is warm, the vent that brings air from frezer to refrigator has no air movement, ice inside , i broke some ice with knife shoul di spray hot water to get rid rest , I did...

This answer will be somewhat long, but in order to understand the "fix" for your problem you need to understand how a refrigerator-freezer works.

Most units have ONE COMPRESSOR which usually cools the FREEZER. Then, to cool the fridge area, there is a DUCT or ducts between the freezer and the fridge area to move some small amount of very cold freezer air into the fridge section. In the old days this occurred by convection, but most newer units have a small fan in the duct to more dependably move the air.

The run time of the compressor, and thus the temperature of the freezer is usually controlled by a THERMOSTAT [usually with numbers on the dial]. A second control [usually with the letters A, B, C, and sometimes even D] operates either a DAMPER in the duct, or controls the duration of fan operation in order to control the temperature in the fridge section.

Under certain conditions of higher humidity, FROST [fine ice crystals] can build up in the duct, and on the fan if there is one, reducing or totally blocking the cold air flow from the freezer to the fridge section.

From your description of the freezer working well, but the fridge section being "warm" suggests that blockage of the duct is what has happened. However, there are a couple of other possibilities:

1. You inadvertantly moved the fridge control to a warmer setting,
2. You inadvertantly placed something in the freezer and/or fridge which BLOCKED the entrance or exit of the duct,

IF one of the above are the cause, a "manual" defrost of a few hours with the freezer and fridge doors open to allow warmer air in should melt out any frost/ice from the duct and allow the system to work properly. Depending on the severity of the frost/ice buildup, it could take a couple of days to fully melt all the frost/ice.

During the manual defrost ALL frozen and perishable foods should be temporary stored in an ice chest or cooler of some kind.

One more thing, in addition to heavy humidity, frost/ice buildup can also be caused by a defective automatic DEFROST TIMER. IF the system does not do its regular defrost cycle [usually an hour or two once in each 24 hours], then frost/ice buildup can occur even with "normal" humidities.

So, once you have the system back in operation, watch for the normal cycling of the defrost program, and if the problem continues, contact a qualified refrigeration repair technician to repair or replace the defrost TIMER.

Jul 13, 2011 | Refrigerators

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Refridgerator (upper) does not cool. The freezer (lower) works well. I noticed the evaporator coils (can see partially through bottom freezer) were frozen. Drain pan is dry. Vacuumed the condenser coill...

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

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1 Answer

Fridge stops working and warms up for half a day then will cool back off and start working for a day or a few days. When it warms up everything in the freezer defrosts but will then refreeze a day later...

Check your defrost thermostat in your freezer access panel. Your defrost timer could be faulty, Your defrost timers ussually run for 12 hours and defrost runs for 30 minutes. That being said that is why I believe your timer is getting stuck on run and then eventually it finally gets unstuck and goes into defrost. Eventually it will get stuck in one place or another.

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There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

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Oklahoma Freezer cold fridge warm fan gets Ice build up !

You should not have to manually defrost. Your auto defrost system is not working. Check the timer usuall in the frig compartment near the thermostat ( a small hole, use a screwdrive flat tip 1/4" to rotate the timer till it clicks starting the defrost cycle) check freezer in 10-15 min should be defrosted if not you will need to check the heater and thermostat located behind the rear or bottom panel of the freezer.

The defrost timer could be under the box in the front behind kick panel or in the rear by the compressor.

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If the defrost heating element, defrost timer or evaporater fan weren't working, you'd develop a block of ice on the evaporator. Is the compressor running? If it is, it might have bad valves from the frost buildup scenario. Liquid refrigerant could have gotten to the suction valves. The sealed system should have a five year warranty. Might be time to call a pro

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Totally Unreasonable if you don't mind me saying so. The person who told you that story was thinking of an absorption unit more than likely.

Your proble is related to the defrost system of your refrigerator. There is a timer that automatically starts the defrost. It energizes the heaters that defrost the cooling coil. After the coil reaches a preset temperature a defrost terminator turns the heater off for the remaining time on the timer cycle. You could have a bad timer (stalled) which would not start the defrost. Locate the timer and turn the clutch head screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The defrost should take place and will be indicated by water in the drain pan under the refrigerator. If after 25 minutes it does not restart in the cooling mode turn the screw once again to the second click and replace the timer.

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GE Fridge/Freezer Having to turn temp up just to keep it cold

From your comment. It's not that you have to defrost the parts, that's what they're called. "defrost timer", "defrost t-stat" and "heat element". Defrosting the whole fridge for a few days actually will clear the ice blockage if that's it but it will return in a couple weeks if the "defrost cycle" isn't doing its thing. A fridge typically goes into some form of "defrost cycle" to keep it "frost free". As an example, every 12 hours the compressor turns off and the evap. fan turns off then a heat element turns on to melt the light coating of ice on the "cooling coils". Once about 1/2 hour goes by the heating turns off and the cooling turns back on again. This repeats over and over to keep the ice from building up too much. If that cycle is broken, the ice will build and build till the whole coil is a block of ice. Then the air can't flow around it to provide cold air for the whole unit. It acts basically like putting a large block of ice in the freezer and keeping the doors closed... without a fan to move the cold air only the very lower portion of the freezer is cold, the rest is warm.

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