After defrosting the freezer the whole fridge doesn't work (is warm!)
The freezer was defrosted two days ago and once the cycle was over the button clicked out but the fridge never went back to being cold (and went warm instead!) -- even when the temperature was cranked up to full cold.
There is a clicking noise coming from the back of the fridge, but nothing kicks in.
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Re: After defrosting the freezer the whole fridge doesn't...
Sounds like the compressor is locked up or the relay on the compressor is bad. whats happening is its drawing too much current and cutting out from the overlaod relay. that may be a bad compressor or the start relay. both the overload and the relay are under the black box on the front of the compressor. you will need to check the relay to make sure its good, and also the compressor. there should be a wiring diagram on the back that will tell you how many ohms from terminal to terminal on the compressor. hope it helped if its a newer unit the relays are electronic and if you shake it and hear like little sand pebbles in it most likley its bad and thats why it wont run.
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DEFROST PROBLEM The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm. You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Check your defrost thermostat in your freezer access panel. Your defrost timer could be faulty, Your defrost timers ussually run for 12 hours and defrost runs for 30 minutes. That being said that is why I believe your timer is getting stuck on run and then eventually it finally gets unstuck and goes into defrost. Eventually it will get stuck in one place or another.
You should not have to manually defrost. Your auto defrost system is not working. Check the timer usuall in the frig compartment near the thermostat ( a small hole, use a screwdrive flat tip 1/4" to rotate the timer till it clicks starting the defrost cycle) check freezer in 10-15 min should be defrosted if not you will need to check the heater and thermostat located behind the rear or bottom panel of the freezer.
The defrost timer could be under the box in the front behind kick panel or in the rear by the compressor.
If the defrost heating element, defrost timer or evaporater fan weren't working, you'd develop a block of ice on the evaporator. Is the compressor running? If it is, it might have bad valves from the frost buildup scenario. Liquid refrigerant could have gotten to the suction valves. The sealed system should have a five year warranty. Might be time to call a pro
Try defrosting freezer, sometimes when the defrost thermostat fails it causes ice too build up behind the walls of the freezer then it restricts the air flow to the refer side. If it works after defrosting then you probably need to get a new defrost thermostat.
Totally Unreasonable if you don't mind me saying so. The person who told you that story was thinking of an absorption unit more than likely.
Your proble is related to the defrost system of your refrigerator. There is a timer that automatically starts the defrost. It energizes the heaters that defrost the cooling coil. After the coil reaches a preset temperature a defrost terminator turns the heater off for the remaining time on the timer cycle. You could have a bad timer (stalled) which would not start the defrost. Locate the timer and turn the clutch head screw clockwise very SLOWLY until you hear one audible click. The defrost should take place and will be indicated by water in the drain pan under the refrigerator. If after 25 minutes it does not restart in the cooling mode turn the screw once again to the second click and replace the timer.
If the refrigerator restarts after 18-22 minutes and defrost does not take place your problem is in the heater circuit. Open heater or thermostat (termination switch)
From your comment.
It's not that you have to defrost the parts, that's what they're called. "defrost timer", "defrost t-stat" and "heat element". Defrosting the whole fridge for a few days actually will clear the ice blockage if that's it but it will return in a couple weeks if the "defrost cycle" isn't doing its thing. A fridge typically goes into some form of "defrost cycle" to keep it "frost free". As an example, every 12 hours the compressor turns off and the evap. fan turns off then a heat element turns on to melt the light coating of ice on the "cooling coils". Once about 1/2 hour goes by the heating turns off and the cooling turns back on again. This repeats over and over to keep the ice from building up too much. If that cycle is broken, the ice will build and build till the whole coil is a block of ice. Then the air can't flow around it to provide cold air for the whole unit. It acts basically like putting a large block of ice in the freezer and keeping the doors closed... without a fan to move the cold air only the very lower portion of the freezer is cold, the rest is warm.