Question about Brother PS-1250 Pacesetter

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Can not select stitches....machine only does straight stitch

Machine has just been cleaned and is free of lint. I think it needs recalibration.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: stitching looping

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....the question you pose could have 2 meanings....this reply is for looping thread.

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.

The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

cc3f045.jpg...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all back properly.

1eade63.jpg
FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes. ie a different colour top and bottom just for the test.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is, and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine case....no case ? then make some sort of cover ! Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you need any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Feb 23, 2008

  • 1027 Answers

SOURCE: How do I change the stiches?

The brother website has a users manual for it that can be downloaded. Use this link to get it:

http://welcome.solutions.brother.com/bsc/public/us/us/en/doc/manual_index.html?reg=us&c=us&lang=en&prod=hf_ls2125eus&type2=5&flang=English&dlid=

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: can't select stitches 11-21

To select stitches 11-21 you position the stitch length dial on the "SS" setting , and the pattern selecting dial on the desired stitch number. 

Posted on Apr 13, 2009

sburtenshaw1
  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Shirring fabric?

When putting your shirring elastic on the bobbin, don't thread the elastic through the bobbin holder,adjust the stitch length longer,and loosen the tension, other wise if you want to put it through the bobbin holder you have to loosen the tension screw on the bobbin holder, and then you have to adjust it back for ordinary sewing,

Posted on Feb 13, 2010

chrismyers67
  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: what settings do I use for straight stitching on

-Turn the stitch selection dial to the straight stitch (usually the first one, looks like this ----------------)

-Set the lenght dial to anywhere from about 1.5 to 3. The bigger the number, the longer the stitch

-Your width dial will also control where the needle sews (on the left side or the foot, right, center....)

Hope that helps,
Chris

PS,
Always thread the machine with the pressure foot up, or else you will get looping of thread on the bottom of the fabric..

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

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1 Answer

I cannot get the green decorative stitches to work. I'm insure if my Bernina 930 is broken or I'm just unfamiliar with this machine. How do I set my machine for the embroidery stitches?


There are 2 levers on the top that need to be set. One shows the green stitch selections. That needs to be set to your stitch choice. To its right, there is another lever called the "changeover lever." It needs to be pushed all the toward the back of the machine--that switches it from straight stitch to decorative stitch.

Then on the bottom front on the right is a large knob. Both the outer ring of the knob and the inner knob perform different functions. One drops the feed dogs for darning or raises to activate the feed dogs to pull the fabric through the machine. The other part switches between the red and green stitch selections. When that knob is turned the light should show green or red to coordinate with the stitch selection lever on the top of the machine.

So to make decorative stitches, there are 2 levers that need to be moved plus the red/green activator knob. In addition, you will want to adjust the stitch width dial and the stitch length lever to widen or lengthen the stitch.

If you need a manual for your machine, you can download it free here:

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there will be a adjustment in that you should select the stiching mode and in that give the straight mode the problem will be solved

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Oil, if the manual indicates you should do this and where it should be done. Some do not as it has to be done by a repair tech.

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