Question about Microwave Ovens

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Whirlpool Microwave (model WMH1164XVS-1 ) does not turn on

My whirlpool over the range microwave suddenly stopped working. I have tried to replace the fuse(bought from lowe's) , but after few seconds stopped working again. I think it keeps blowing the fuse. Any help/suggestions appreciat

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  • Deepal Gamage Jul 29, 2013

    finally I got time to replace the HV Cap wiht the one that I bought from repairclinic.com wolla .. it started to work again. Thanks for your input and great diagnosis ...

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  • Microwave Ovens Master
  • 15,557 Answers

This could be a lot of things. IT might be a capacitor or diode. MY money is on the capacitor. Since it works for a minute before it quits.

Posted on May 06, 2013

Testimonial: "finally I got time to replace the HV Cap with the one that I bought from repairclinic.com wolla .. it started to work again. Thanks for your input and great diagnosis ..."

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool microwave/oven model RM286PXV3

I have a 13yr old above-range oven which quit when my wife cooked food in an aluminized foil wrapper (a small fire ensued!). This oven has 3 thermal protection units, on the magnetron, the chassis and on top of the food cavity. This last one had failed open, and since it's in series with the magnetron thermal protection unit and the main relay, nothing would work. MAT electronics sell the units for less than $4, but my problem now is to pick one with the appropriate temperature cut-off. They range from 200 to 300F.

Posted on Nov 18, 2006

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Microwave Model MH6130EQ0

If the fuse blows as soon as you hit START, then it's likely that you have a shorted high-voltage capacitor. If the fuse blows a few seconds after you hit START, then it's likely that you have an overheating / shorting high-voltage transformer. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

Posted on Sep 22, 2007

AlmostBob
  • 550 Answers

SOURCE: fuse keeps blowing.

couple questions -
what else is on the circuit,
and what current does the oven need

there are whirlpool over-range models with
1200watts of microwave,
1500watts of convection power, a
60watt bulb and a
375watt fan

over 15amps -20amp circuit needed

if you inadvertantly replaced a higher current fuse with a 15amp fuse, it will blow every time.
the install guide http://www.whirlpool.com/assets/pdfs/product/ZINSTALL/8206589.pdf reccommends 20amp
not a solution, something to check,

Posted on Oct 14, 2008

  • 2318 Answers

SOURCE: fuse keeps blowing.

It appears like the high voltage capacitor is shorted or the diode connected to the capacitor. You might want to check the monitoring switch as well if the capacitor and diode are good.
Click here for more info on how to work around these high voltage devices.
Let me know if you need further assistance.

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9047 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave timer counts down but doesn't turn on when started

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount (which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If the switch mount is broken, it's usually more economical and safer to add a dab or two of hot glue to the mount to secure the switch. Let it cool for about 30 minutes before using.

One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

dee77f7.jpg

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

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