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Washer will not spin, everything else is fine

Shaft mode shifter has 97 Ohms resistance. Plug has 275VDC. Shifter works with 110VAC applied. Tub does not spin during adgitate. Spins on slow speed. will not shift to high speed. Could this be a diode problem on the motor control board?

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  • 14 Answers

Check out for your capacitor.......if your capacitor is having problem your machine cant take heavy duty or loads :-)

Posted on May 06, 2013

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: roper(whirlpool) washer will not spin

check the tub casting under the agitator or it the gearcase

Posted on Mar 20, 2008

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: washer won't spin fast, only slow

tyr removing the lower acees panel from the uint , ther is a "button trap" located there to catch debris from entering pump assy, chances are its clogged and if it cant drain all the water it wont go into high speed spin, also you MUST use an HE detergent. HE detergent specifically designed for front loading washers

Posted on Apr 29, 2008

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: won't empty water slow spin in spin cycle

It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
if this helps please vote a fix ya

Posted on Jul 15, 2008

  • 65 Answers

SOURCE: Bad wax motor in door lock assy. Where I can buy just wax motor?

TRY WWW.MARCONE.COM OR WWW.SEARS.COM UNDER PARTS. IT WILL GIVE YOU AN EXPLODED VIEW OF THE LATCH.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

  • 212 Answers

SOURCE: Code F43 on frigidaire front load washer.

motor control possibly bad

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

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I have a 06 ford explorer an it will not come out of park even when the brakes are pushed down it will not budge


Shift interlock problem sounds like . Does your explorer have floor mounted shifter ?
Shift Interlock System
The shift interlock system prevents the shifting from PARK unless the brake pedal is depressed. The shift interlock system consists of a shift lock actuator mounted on the floor shifter. If the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the shift lock actuator is disabled when the brake pedal is depressed.
If the selector lever will not move out of park with the key in the ON position, it will need to be unlocked manually.

Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action
  • Shift interlock system does not release/lock correctly
  • Shift interlock switch
  • Circuit(s)
  • Fuse(s):
    • F20 (10A)
    • F22 (15A)
  • Shift lock actuator
  • Brake pedal position (BPP) switch
  • Go To Pinpoint Test A .

PINPOINT TEST A: SHIFT INTERLOCK SYSTEM DOES NOT RELEASE/LOCK CORRECTLY Test Step Result / Action to Take A1 TEST THE BRAKE LIGHTS
  • Apply brake pedal and view brake lights.
  • Do brake lights illuminate?
Yes
GO to A7 .

No
GO to A2 .
A2 TEST FUSE F22 (15A)
  • Key in OFF position.
  • Check fuse: Smart Junction Box (SJB) Fuse F22 (15A).
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A4 .

No
GO to A3 . A3 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
  • Key in OFF position.
  • Disconnect: Brake Pedal Position (BPP) Switch.
  • Measure the resistance between pin 1 and ground.
  • Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
GO to A4 .

No
REPAIR circuit for short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation. A4 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
  • Measure the resistance between SJB C2280E-28 and brake pedal position switch connector pin 1.
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A5 .

No
REPAIR circuit for open. TEST the system for normal operation. A5 TEST THE BPP SWITCH
  • Measure the resistance of BPP switch while open (OFF) and closed (ON).
  • Is the resistance of switch greater than 10,000 ohms while OFF and less than 5 ohms while ON?
Yes
GO to A6 .

No
INSTALL a new switch. TEST the system for normal operation. A6 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
  • Disconnect: Shift Connector C2008.
  • Measure the resistance of pin 8 and ground.
  • Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
GO to A7 .

No
REPAIR circuit for short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation. A7 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
  • Measure the resistance between shifter C2008-8 and brake pedal position switch connector pin 2.
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A8 .

No
REPAIR circuit for open. TEST the system for normal operation. A8 TEST FOR B+
  • Key in ON position.
  • Measure the voltage at shifter C2008-1 and ground.
  • Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?
Yes
GO to A12 .

No
GO to A9 . A9 TEST FUSE F20 (10A)
  • Key in OFF position.
  • Check fuse: Fuse F20 (10A).
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A11 .

No
GO to A10 . A10 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
  • Measure the resistance between shifter C2008-1 and ground.
  • Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
GO to A11 .

No
REPAIR circuit for short to ground. TEST the system for normal operation. A11 TEST THE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
  • Measure the resistance between SJB C2280C-12 and the shifter C2008-1.
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
GO to A12 .

No
REPAIR circuit for open. TEST the system for normal operation. A12 CHECK THE CIRCUIT FOR AN OPEN
  • Measure the resistance between shifter C2008-6 and ground.
  • Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
INSTALL a new shift lock actuator. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit for open. TEST the system for normal operation.

Dec 27, 2016 | 2006 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Why can't ignition key be removed?


Sounds like the solenoid mounted on the shifter. You have to replace the shifter to replace the solenoid. I would check the resistance of the solenoid. Usually 30 to 40 ohms. check the plug to it(Corrrosion) and the resistance of the wires from the brake switch to the solenoid(5 ohms or less). Those shifters are cheap. Could be the brake switch also. Next time it doesn't work, See if the brake lights come on.

Apr 11, 2016 | 2006 Nissan Quest

1 Answer

When my GE WPRE6100G1WT top load washer is performing normal agitation, there's a load banging noise. I was told it may be the Mode Shifter gone bad. I've checked the counter weight, balance rods, bel


Yup, it's the mode shifter. You're going to need to change out the shaft and modes shifter assembly, along with replacing the tub seal.

You can get all of that with this kit:
Clutch

And, here is the video of how to change it:

Good luck!

Oct 26, 2014 | GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE MODEL NUMBER WJSR4160G1WW HAS THE OVERFLOW TUBE FLOODING WHAT IS WRONG


That style of washer has a transmission tube called the "mode shifter" part#WH38X10017 It has a small electrical solenoid that is supposed to shift from the agitate to spin functions... The problem happens when the entire tub remains engaged for the agitation stroke. So you would see the entire tub moving like just the agitator would normally... That causes larger than normal waves that crest and come out the back left over flow tube. You probably need to replace the mode shifter.
Heres the manual for testing...
Appliance Repair Manual ge washer with electromechanical controls and...

and here's a link to the part:
Clutch WH38X10017

Jun 20, 2014 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE washer. New belt, motor worked one cycle. On second run, all works but no motor running at all. 4 flashes on pc board. Try to reset with 6 hood open in 12 secs. but not sure hood switch works. How...


Hello,

The error code E4 (4 flashes of teh light) means the the shifter coil is open..the shifter coil is part of the mode shaft..to repair that the mode shaft would need to be replaced...the mode shaft is in the center of the tub its what the agitator and the inner tub connect to and would require disassambly of just about the entire washer to replace it.

As far a s testing the lid switch with a ohm meter its just a matter of determining via the wiring diagram in the control panel and find the 2 wires on it and where the connect to (sorry dont remember off hand what two wires they are) to test it when the lid is closed on those 2 wires should have continuty with ZERO omhs resistiance and when the lid is open the that circuit should be opened

GENE

Sep 01, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Will drain but wont spin


I just had exactly the same problem. It turns out that the washer thought it was "continuously out of balance" because the inertial unbalance switch was not working properly. The way I fixed it was:

1. I followed the instructions to disassemble the Neptune washer found here: http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm and then in the control panel on top I found actually a very useful document stored in the control panel itself. It is called "Schematic Mini-manual LED Washer" and it contains a set of schematics for the electrical system and an explanation on how to run various diagnostics on the washer. This was incredibly helpful.

2. I checked the diagnostic code using the following procedure:

a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".

To double check the diagnostic code, I

a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.

Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure. I did receive the "05" diagnostic code again.

3. With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.

The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.

To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.

To find which switch was at fault, I disconnected each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.

This was the switch with the problem (it was effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.

4. At this point, I put everything back together again (concrete block, reconnected the in-line connector to the switches, and reversed the procedure found in http://www.neptunehelp.com/index_files/Page323.htm ).

Once everything was back together again, I tested just a "spin" cycle and everything worked. You could also test this before putting things back together (probably a good idea) by temporarily putting the door on properly and trying a "spin" cycle.

Another thing to note, you could actually check the diagnostic codes and run several of the tests without taking the entire washer apart. Basically, all you need to do is get the mini-manual out of the control panel (I there are 6 screws total I took off) and run the tests before opening the rest of the washer.

In the end, it might be good to clean or lubricate the inertial unbalance switch or replace it since it will probably stick again. Unfortunately, I am not sure how it is built, so I am not sure what the best way to clean or lubricate it is. Just shaking it for the moment did the trick.

Hope this helps.

Jun 04, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Clothes come out from washer soaking wet


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
Spin cycle
Siphoning
Water-inlet valve
Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

May 03, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Tub spins while in wash cycle


suspect what ge call a mode shifter pull front panel off by sliding putty knife along edge at each side and pressing clips front comes right off look on motor for a flashing green light (washer must be in operation) there are 2 wires in a single plug on motor these run back to transmission area with a volt/ohm meyer unplug and ck between the wires for continuity should be roughly 90 ohms if bad will not show any continuity

Oct 08, 2008 | GE WWSR3090TWW

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