Question about Refrigerators
I need a manual for the Sa 12863. Mr. Freeze portable ice maker.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
majority of refrigerators today are equipped with an automatic icemaker. The water valve supplying the icemaker is a key component of the icemaking system, and it should be the first thing you check if the icemaker's performance is erratic or if the icemaker stops working. When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin. As time passes, strange things may happen to the refrigerator's icemaking capability. The cubes may be small or there may be a solid chunk of ice instead of individual cubes. It's also possible that the icemaker will stop working. These are all signs of a malfunctioning water valve. The valve is equipped with a screen on its inlet to remove minerals and sediments in the water supply. Over time, minerals and sediment build up on the screen and restrict flow through the valve, or even block it completely. Minerals that make it through the screen can cause the valve to stick in the open position, overfilling the ice cube tray in the process. This is a common problem in areas with hard water, but it can happen just about anywhere. Another malfunction that will cause the icemaker to stop working is a break in the solenoid coil winding. This is known as an open coil. The coil winding generates a magnetic field as current passes through it, and this magnetic field opens the plunger valve that controls water flow. A break in the coil winding stops current flow and this prevents the valve from operating. Test And Inspect The icemaker's valve is easy to inspect and test. First, gently pull the refrigerator away from the wall, and unplug it. Turn off the water supply to the icemaker by closing the shut-off valve in the copper waterline leading to the valve (Fig. 1). Use a screwdriver or nutdriver to remove the rear lower access panel from the refrigerator's back. Next, remove the fill tubing from the water valve. Use a wrench to loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting on the inlet side of the valve (above). Place a container under the valve to catch the small amount of water that will spill from the valve and tubing. Now use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw holding the valve's mounting bracket to the refrigerator cabinet (Fig. 2). Pull the valve out of the compartment and remove the tube on the valve's outlet. Then, remove the solenoid's electrical contacts (Fig. 3).
Posted on Mar 29, 2009
if water is running in, your tubes are not frozen. More than likely it is the arms that eject the ice are not working and turning to move them out. Check that. Ours were moving some, but not all the way around. We called someone out and they said it would be $500 to fix. We ordered the part online after calling the company and getting the part number, it was a $110, looked up the manual online, it took 3 screws removed and 1 connection and me and my mom replaced it. Not as hard as the tell you, just get online and find the manual that tells you how. I promise not hard, we were very proud of ourselves!!
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
you lift lid and add water up to the bottom of the plasticslotted tray where ice cubes will be after made. I have a problem with sa12863 also, The water quit filling into tray? like line is plugged or pump quit???
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
SOURCE: Whirlpool Ice maker4 issue
Sounds like the optics are bad part # 4389102 this model(if we have the right model#)has two optics boards one receiver one emitter on either side of the door opening which shoot a beam from one to the other through the opening in each side of the bin,as long as nothing blocks that beam and the freezer is cold enough to chill the thermostat to temp in the icemaker,then it should be dumping ice.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
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