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Problem with Acer AL1715 (Black, Silver) 17" LCD Monitor
monitor keeps going blank at start up
When I start up my monitor everything appears to be working fine, but after a few seconds, the screen goes black, the power light remains green. If I switch off and then switch on again, the screen (again) starts up, and then (again) after a few seconds, shuts down. Eventually it will stay on, but it seems to be taking more on/off cycles each time.
Solutions (17)
Best Solution
This looks to be a power supply fault - the inverters for the backlights are built into the power supply (Delta Electronics, model no. ADP-40AF).
I had a monitor with this same problem. The components on my inverter board did not quite match the listed solutions. I looked for signs of bad components: burned board, bad solder joints, bloated or bursted capacitors...nothing seemed wrong. sooooo,
I ordered replacement capacitors and replaced all of them except for the huge one. Now it works!
Project Details Here:
http://www.swiftsilence.com/Projects/ACER%20AL1715%20Repair/ACER%20AL1715%20Repair.html
This should solve the problems related to picture not coming up or disappearing after a few seconds/minutes.
I repaced the c5706(2 shortcutted) and its working fine now.
I have ACER AL1715. Thank you very much. I replace two capacitors C152 and C153 680uF 16V both, and I solder new one capacitor 1000uF 16V. This working perfectly. Thank you very very much. Jan Smolik
I have a AWM 19" Monitor that had the same symptoms. I pulled it apart it had the Delta ADP-40AF Inverter/powersupply board. The exact capacitors were blown as listed above. I ordered two of them and look forward to getting that monitor up and working. Thank you
Hallo everybody.
Ihave just open one 1715 9acer ,with the same symptoms ( like yours , on , 4 sec. good and then dark screen .)
I have checked almost all the capasitors and they were good .
I found the transistor Q11 (powerboard ) defect was blown up. ( Q11 = C5706 ) = I dont know excactly or 2sc 5706 ,or BTC 5706 ,
G.T.
Mine is doing the same thing for the second time. Luckily my warranty is still good. They come with a 3 year.
Crappy part is i got to wait for Acer to fix it and send it back.
I have this problem only it is an Acer 1914.
Come one posts the acer screen then you can see for a split second and the screen goes blank.
But the light stays green like there is no problem.
I believe the screen is up it is just very dim. like I need a flashlight to see it.
ZEB6 did you succeed to repair it because we have 17 acer 1715 lcd ion this state :(
If you can still see your screen in the backround after the light goes off try lowering your brightness until it comes back on. You might have to go under 55. Its hard to see on just the right angle looking at the monitor.
If they had a tech bulletin out then no one would toss them when they die and go buy new - the whole Chinese design model. Make them to last till shortly after warranty then simple **** goes bad but makes the item useless (except to people bold enough to troubleshoot and repair them). I have a 1711 that has no power lamp and it has the SLV03150450-00 power/inverter board mentioned above. Upper right of the power board are 2 470uF 25v electrolytics to the right of a regulator heatsink. Marked C118 and C119. Both are swollen. Looking at the board it appears the right side is what takes input AC down to usable DC voltages, the left side is the inverter section for the lamps. I haven't replaced the caps yet (have to scrounge through my old 386 and 486 era motherboards, or order some new) but like every other item I've had these knockoff Chinese POS caps swell or burst on it always fixes the problem (except one that got nailed by lightning and killed most of the semiconductors).
I had the same problem!. Acer AL 1711 with power supply Delta Delta Electronics, model no. ADP-40AF. I replace two capacitors C152 and C153 680uF 16V both, and I solder new one capacitor 2200uF 16V. This working perfectly.
Lauran Lint
Yea thanks to all you posters. I had same problem on an Acer1715 but it had different value caps in it but a pair close to a heatsink seem to be the culprits. Note with mine there were no physical signs of bulging but I changed em anyhow and "touch wood" (Whatever that really means ;-)) the monitor seems to be working. Hardest bit is taking it apart whats wrong with 4 screws? Like on the old stuff?!! Again thanks to other posters for this fix.
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Update:, did not fix it (but my caps looked good). So kept waiting untill "smoke"!.........
Q11 went short circuit, like Guest G. T.'s, a few posts above, but on mine this is an STD1805-1 "CCFL (meaning backlight) driver". Makes sense kinda, So I will order one and try it.
Fingers crossed.
For info on my 1715 the SMPS Board is:
SLV03150450-00.
I will post back if it works or not in a few days for anyone who changing caps did not work.
I can only happen to me............
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I just repaired one by replacing C922 and C924
Nice job ZEB6, i have 17 acer 1715 like yours ... i opened 2 of them...same blown capacitor...and heat source sign under CR151 just beside C152 and C153. I'll have to buy some of them to try, or take the C154 on two others to do the trick! Thank a lot... i still have a potential of 40 acer 1715 probably with this problem!
nice job zeb6 i have 18 acer lcd 1715
its funny we all have the exact same problem and the monitor is not that old. seems to me that there should be a tech bullitin on this issue. any one know if there is a bulliyin on this, or where to go to see hp"s tech support
Suggested Solution (1)
Look for bad caps, repalce them in a set.
http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/ACER%20AL1715b/
If you are going to DIY and already try the monitor with another PC, and have proper tools and know safety precaution then please read on:
Most common failures in the LCD monitors are bad capacitors (bulging top/seal or leaking) in the power supply (they should be replaced in a set), blown fuses; poor solder joints, failed inverter circuits (blown fuse, shorted transistors, shorted/open transformers), bad lamps (poor solder connections or worn out lamps). You will need to open it up and inspect the inside, see example of failed ACER monitors to get some ideas what to look for: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Post back what you see inside so we can guide you further and it will help out other people in the future also.
Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/
Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/ he can make you a set of caps for you.
Or www.digikey.com just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current, long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.
Please leave rating if it helps.
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After having further inspected my power supply closely I've noticed that two 680uF capacitors have gone faulty (the tops are bulging).
I will endeavour to replace them and report back if this resolves the problem. I'd be interested if others are able to check this too - they are C152 and C153 on the power supply board (BTW it's a pig of a job getting the back off the monitor!)
Guest - yes I did. I replaced the two capacitors less than a week ago and it's worked perfectly ever since!
As the monitor had been off for quite some time I didn't worry about discharging any capacitors (although I was still careful which parts of the board my hands came in contact with!)
It's a dead-easy job (once you manage to get the back off the monitor):
- Remove cover at top of stand (prise off the bottom and then tilt upwards).
- Remove four screws / bolts that hold the stand to the monitor and two smaller screws that hold case together.
- Carefully prise the back off (start at the bottom and work your way around) - there's no easy way to do this as far as I can tell.
- Remove five screws that hold the metal screening around the power supply.
- Remove four screws that hold PSU board. Prise up the left hand side of the PSU (as viewed from the back) and slide to the left.
- Replace C152 and C153 (680uF, 16V)
- Reverse above instructions to re-assemble.
See attached images for examples of what the capacitors look like when they blow. The black capacitor is brand new - you'll notice that the top is flat and there is an indented ring around the base.Here are the photos - they didn't upload the first time!
