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Replacing old light switch, only use copper wires?
Hi, i am replacing light switches in our home, and the light switches are from around 1950's. i have Cooper 1301-7W grounding single pole switches to replace them, there is a copper wire, and a regular silver(aluminum?) wire, i know where they all go, but the Cooper switch say's ONLY USE copper wires...do i need to rewire the whole house or are there other switches i can buy? i did replace this switch but the light still won't work, its not the bulb, is it the switch or the socket? the last time the light blew out and made the brand new bulb turn black! thats why i'm not sure its the socket or switch! any help? thx, aaron.
SPST switch ? i turned on the light(toggle switch on wall)....and it blew. i have 4 other lights that wont work either...maybe the sockets? i changed 1 wall switch, and nothing, no power to the light on ceiling. yes, the wires are a thick copper and other is a regular silvery colored wire.SPST switch ? i turned on the light(toggle switch on wall)....and it blew. i have 4 other lights that wont work either...maybe the sockets? i changed 1 wall switch, and nothing, no power to the light on ceiling. yes, the wires are a thick copper and other is a regular silvery colored wire.
I would recommend replacing the wiring in the home that is aluminum. The aluminum, swells and shrinks with heat, and over time can cause a short, and possible fire. For this reason most local code offices only permit the use of copper wire now. Not trying to scare you just giving you a heads up.I would recommend replacing the wiring in the home that is aluminum. The aluminum, swells and shrinks with heat, and over time can cause a short, and possible fire. For this reason most local code offices only permit the use of copper wire now. Not trying to scare you just giving you a heads up.
SPST switch that takes either copper or Alum is needed. Most likely the wiring from the box to the lamp socket or the lamp socket itself that is at fault.SPST switch that takes either copper or Alum is needed. Most likely the wiring from the box to the lamp socket or the lamp socket itself that is at fault.
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Re: Replacing old light switch, only use copper wires?
First, aluminum wire is rarely used anymore, in residential. It's pretty costly to rewire the entire house and you would have to bring it up to the latest codes and have inspections . Usually the single pole switch is used to break the circuit on the "Hot" leg only and the neutral is usually straight wired to the load (Bulb). Based on your description, I would think it's the socket. If it was the switch, it would have sparks or something, not the bulb/ socket. You may have "Blown" the connection in the socket. Kill the breaker and check it.
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Sounds like you have two hot wires. Just need to find out which wire goes to the wall switch. Try gray to black from fan,pink to black/white wire.white to white & green to green. If this doesn't work swich the pink & gray wires.
There are 2 holes in the back of the old switch,either take a piece of #14 gauge solid copper wire and press it into the hole to release the wires or just clip them close to the switch and then restrip the wire to the length indicated in the moulding on the back of the new switch.This tells you how long to strip the wire.After doing this loop halfway the solid copper wire with a pair of needle nose pliers and insert it around the screw clockwise,so that it turns with the screw and tightens the loop.MAKE SURE the copper on the black(hot) wire is not exposed beyond the loop,it has to only be around the screw.It's always a good practice whether your pushing the switch into a plastic or metal box,single lead or multiple incoming wires.For metal boxes I always wrap black tape on the brass(hot) screws.
1) First of all you need to determine what device you are replacing. Single-pole or 3-way. Add a comment any time
Remember you can also take advantage of fixya phone service, where expert speaks to you over the phone while you are
installing device. This service is not free.
2) If you are replacing single-pole switch, that is where one switch controls the Load (light fan motor) Here are instructions for installing ipp15-11 Motion switch for single-pole replacement. Old switch has 2 insulated wires plus bare ground wire. Ipp15 bare copper ground wire will connect to bare copper ground wire.
Separate switch wires for testing. Use ordinary two prong tester, tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power. Turn power ON. Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to ipp15 screw marked BL black. The other wire that came off switch will connect to ipp15 screw marked RD red Hot wire is identified. Located in back of box are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Remove this nut. Now test Hot wire to all other wires in box, excluding bare ground wire. Tester lights up on neutral wires. ipp15 screw marked WH white connects to neutral wires. If your box does not have neutral wire, then connect ipp15 WH white to bare ground wires.
4) If you are replacing 3-way switch, that is where 2 different switches control the same Load (light fan motor. 3-way switch has 3 insulated wires and a bare ground wire. Note screw colors on old 3-way switch. Dark screw is the Load wire. The 2 brass screws are the travelers. From the ipp15 instructions, it appears you will need Viza Coordinating Switch Remote plus a sensor device to accomplish the 3-way installation. If you have both of these devices and want free written instructions, then add a comment and I will verbalize contents from the manual. Also you can pay a fixya expert to talk over the phone.
5) Leviton also offers technical assistance at 1-800-824-3055
Switch-plug combo: bare ground goes to green screw dark screw goes to hot from breaker silver screw to neutral brass screw goes to load (light)
Add a comment any time You are replacing single pole light switch? Single pole switch has 3 wires: black and red and bare copper
New device has 4 different colored screws: green, dark, brass, silver Bare copper goes to green screw. Black wire goes to dark screw Red wire to brass screw Nothing on silver screw for a moment. Test circuit and make sure light turns on-off. If lights works, then good so far.
Now let look at silver screw. Neutral wire has to connect to silver screw. In back of your electrical box are white wires twisted together and covered with wire nut. These are neutral wires. You must connect another short piece of insulated wire to these neutral wires and run that wire to silver screw. The neutral wire will complete circuit to receptacle. If you do not have neutral wire, then receptacle will not work in that box without additional wiring.
Hook up neutral wire to silver screw. Now turn on power and click switch again. If circuit breaker trips, then reverse your red and black wires. Otherwise this should be correct wiring.
I don't know the copper-brand 1301 switch Internet photos of the 1301 show that it has two screw terminals, and a green ground screw Switch with 2 screws is a single-pole switch. (plug green ground screw)
Sounds like you are replacing 3-way switch with 3 screws. (plus green ground screw) 3-way switches control hallway lights, with switch at each end of hallway.
I think you need to buy a 3-way switch.
How to wire 3-way switch: Bare ground always goes to green screw The key is the dark-colored screw. Old switch has dark-colored screw >> mark this wire. Attach this wire to dark-colored screw on new switch. Other two wires go to either screw.
Need to know what is your issue. If you are asking how to hook it up it is a simple task. First you need to confirm if it is a single pole or 3-way switch. Does more than one switch control the light? If not is a single pole switch. I would first turn off the power to the switch you are replacing. Check this by turning on the light and turn off breakers one at a time until the light goes out. Take out old switch and connect new one. tkae one wire off old switch and connect it to one wire on dimmer. Doesn't matter which one. Take the second wire off the switch and connect it to the remaining wire of the dimmer. If you have a ground wire (bare copper wire) connected to the old switch and you have a bare or green wire on the dimmer, connect those together as well. Mount dimmer in box, re-energize circuit and you should be good to go. I am curious why you are using a 1000 watt switch (unless you are controlling more than 600 watts of lights)(9 65 watt bulbs = 585 watts). Let me know how you make out. Hope that helps.
Find the Hot wire: Your switch has 2 wires. One of these wires is Hot, and one goes to load. Disconnect wires from switch. Turn on power. Do not stand on wet surface. Test each wire to bare copper wire. When tester lights up, that is Hot wire. The other wire goes to load.
Connect wires: Hot wire goes to Black timer wire Wire to load goes to Red timer wire White wire connects to white wires that are twisted together Bare copper wire connects to Green wire from timer
How to connect white wire to white wires that are twisted together. a) Strip white timer wire so you have 1-1/2 " of bare wire. Stranded wire will wrap around other wires easily. b) Remove wire nut. DO NOT UNTWIST wires. c) Hold all whites together so bare copper lines up. Wrap stranded copper around the twisted wire. d) Replace wire nut, or use larger wire nut. Twist real tight. Do not use tape. You can solder the connection. e) When done, pull on white time wire to make sure it is held tight. Push whites back into box.
You need to make sure the wire connector
has a listing AL/CU on it. These have been
evaluated for a mixture of copper and
aluminum combinations. BTW the switch
conductor is most likely tinned copper, this
slowed down the oxidation process.
what kind of light switch are you replacing??? assuming house light switch???
one way or two way switch??
I have not come across the type of switch before.
L1, L2 is just label as line 1 and line 2, comm is usually refer to common (ground wire-white).
is the red wire-hot???
SPST switch ? i turned on the light(toggle switch on wall)....and it blew. i have 4 other lights that wont work either...maybe the sockets? i changed 1 wall switch, and nothing, no power to the light on ceiling. yes, the wires are a thick copper and other is a regular silvery colored wire.
it's a basic silent switch....
ok, ty but will these switches replace the old? thx...
I would recommend replacing the wiring in the home that is aluminum. The aluminum, swells and shrinks with heat, and over time can cause a short, and possible fire. For this reason most local code offices only permit the use of copper wire now. Not trying to scare you just giving you a heads up.
SPST switch that takes either copper or Alum is needed. Most likely the wiring from the box to the lamp socket or the lamp socket itself that is at fault.
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