Question about Washing Machines
Stops at all draining parts of any cycle. will not drain water. Will spin
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken lid switch. The lid switch is located under the washer top on the right hand side. It is activated through a slot by a small plastic piece on the lid called a "lid strike". Make sure the lid strike is still installed and not broken. Make sure the lid switch itself is not loose, as well. There are two mounting screws along the washer tub opening that hold it in place. If the screws become loose the switch will not make contact with the lid strike when the lid is closed. If you need to replace the switch or lid strike, the parts are available at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Washer Top and Lid" heading on the next page. The lid switch is listed as item number 22 (part #3355806) and the lid strike is listed as item number 16 (part #358684). Both parts combined will cost you about $30. If you have further questions and/or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
I've had the same problem...you can purchase a replacement lid switch at your local appliance parts store for about $35. Fortunatly, the sales person at the appliance store had diagrams and provided instructions to replace the switch. I was able to finish the job and fix the switch in less than 1 hour. Good Luck.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
This problem is commonly attributed to a lid switch malfunction. I will need a more accurate model number to confirm (located under the washer lid along the tub rim). "110" is only the beginning prefix of the model number, which identifies the manufacturer. I will need the remaining numbers to determine how the washer is configured.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug.
A replacement lid switch can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. For instructions on how to replace a lid switch, you can refer to my profile and look under my "Tips and Tricks" for links for Replacing a Lid Switch. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. PS If the lid switch IS defective and you need instructions on how to by-pass it in order to drain the wash tub, let me know. In addition, if my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
When the washer initially fills for the wash, is it only hot water entering the drum? Try switching the water temperature between hot and cold as it fills. If any of them show little or no water getting through, it sounds too easy but check to make sure water supply taps are on, and that the cold/hot fill hoses aren't reversed. Remove the fill hoses and check any of the screen filters for blockage (in the hoses and in the inlet water valve). When the machine stops and waits to fill but all you hear is a hum, it sounds like there is power going to the valve but water is not able to get through it.
Posted on Mar 03, 2009
There is an awesome guy on fixya with this:
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
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