The engine has been in a wet environment (there has bee water in the bottom of the boat, for a period of two months), and it has been down to minus 15 degrees C. Now, as I try to start the engine, it will not turn. My theory is that the flywheel will not turn, due to rust. What do you think of my theory, and what must I do, if I am correct?
Im not sure what all you have checked, but I would first determine if the starter is engaging and spinning properly. Put a good socket on the end of the crank with spark plugs out and see if your theory is correct. If I misunderstood and you stated that the flywheel will not turn because you have already tried it then you have a stuck engine, more than likely the piston rings have a little rust. Try filling cylinders with Marvel Mystery oil. Some use diesel and transmission fluid. Fill completely and wait a full day then see if it will turn with plugs out. Repeat the process after a couple of days passed with cylinders full of oil. Do NOT apply a lot of force as this could break piston rings or worse. Make sure plugs are removed as this can put excessive loads on engine parts and rods can be bent. Chances are very good this will work. Be patient.
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I used to live in the Chicago area. We definitely had winter (below zero).I went thru extensive winterization for the inboards and stern drives. I fogged outboards and put Sta-bil in the gas. I also ran the gas out of the carbs or drained them but the boats would sit unused for 6 months. Does the boat stay in the water? If on a trailer, lower the motor so it is in the run (trim down) and the water will run out. If you tilt it up after this for storage, cover the gear case as it can fill with rain water and freeze.
Aluminum boats are easier to maintain, will last longer than fiberglass, and are easier to repair. You can also bump into things without causing damage like you would to a fiberglass hull.
The only real advantages to fiberglass are that it looks better due to the gelcoat finish, providing that it is maintained, they also feel more solid in the water due to the extra weight, and they tend to ride better and are quieter than an aluminum hull.
One other consideration is whether you will operate it in fresh water or salt water. Salt water can lead to corrosion problems on an aluminum hull if you leave it in the water. Fiberglass doesn't have that problem, but you can have a problem with blistering if you leave a fiberglass boat in the water for long periods, especially if you don't use a bottom coat of some sort.
If you do opt for an aluminum boat in salt water, just make sure that you spray it down with fresh water and wipe it down with a soft towel whenever you take it out of the water. This is actually a good practice for any boat, aluminum or fiberglass.
You can use
any oil that is JASO MA certified motorcycle oil. 10w-40 for cold
climate. 20w-50 for warm climate/touring. Car oils use different
additives and may cause scoring in certain types of cam bearings. Do not
use any oil that says " Energy Conserving " on the label .
It will shorten the life of your wet clutch and transmission gears. If
you choose Synthetic oils, they will help your bike run cooler and shift
easier. Shell Rotella T and Rotella T Synthetic 15w-40 are inexpensive
JASO MA oils. Rotella oil runs about $12 for regular and $22 for full synthetic. You will need 4 quarts of oil, an aluminum drain plug
washer, and a filter. Pour in 3.4 quarts , run the motor, and check the
oil level . Top up as needed. Use only NON SILICA formula antifreeze like Honda or GM Dexcool (mix 50/50 with distilled water unless premixed), the scrubbing
particles in automotive SILICA style antifreeze can damage the ceramic seal in you
motorcycle water pump.With
the motorcycle engine cold , located the radiator cap on or just behind
the radiator and fill the radiator to the top. Then, locate the over
flow bottle often placed down by your feet and fill the bottle to the
high mark. Ride the motorcycle and recheck the level of the over flow
bottle after the cool down period. Top up as needed.
If it is a plastic fuel tank, which I believe it is, then no, it will not break down. The rubber components or hoses between the fuel tank and the engine can. The most common cause of fuel problems in boats is water in the fuel, which generally enters from either the fuel vent or because the fuel tank was stored less than full for long periods of time. I would suggest you take off the fuel sender and look into the tank. Raise front of boat. Water will appear like a separation below the fuel. If you see this, you will need to empty tank by siphoning and fill with fresh. Replace any filters and rebuild carb. Let me know if you have anymore details.
Here's a link to the head torque specs of all engines. The Yanmar 6HAL DTN should be there as well. Scroll towards the bottom of the page to view the information you need. http://www.aera.org/downloads/Torque3.pdf
Note: Click the + sign in the magnifying glass at the top to enlarge the information. This web page is in PDF format and may take a minute to load on your computer. Be patient.
My thought is that it is electrical, since it will not crank. I assume you mean that it will not turn over when you turn the key. I am not certain, but I think that if you have an electrical problem it may shut off the fuel supply as well. There is probably an electrical fuel stop on that machine. Since there is no spark plugs or electrical system to make the engine run, by shorting out the electrical system it will not stop the engine.
i do not know how much of the truck went under the water if the computer on the passenager side under the glove box got wet and maybe while you are having problems let it dry out on it own for two days and if you still having this problem you may have a short in you computer and here is a place that sells only GM parts Schram auto & truck parts the number is 1-800-292-1032