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Re: negative audio test
Do you hear ANY sounds at all from the unit. how about when you scroll the volume knob + & -?
is it a faint sound? can you barely hear it? hold it close.. (make sure it's clean though) oh yea.. and this is all at your own risk.. :)
audio cut out could be caused by:
1. A metallic object stuck to the back of the speaker. You would be surprised what gets in there.
2. Speaker wire solder parted, either side.
3. Sometimes a simple clearing of the user data will work.
A) At user menu press "-" key, "+" zoom in key and press the repeat button on the top all at the same time.
B) At the secret" " menu, select clear user data. Unit will automatically reset.
4. The speaker connections themselves could be loose or melted.
If I was working on your unit, I would first make sure all the connections are clean and sturdy.
if no joy, I'd swap out the speaker to check to see if it's a bad speaker.
If this wasn't the problem, I would reload the software.
If no, I would swap out the I/O board and test for power issues.
Not exactly true. Last spring I lost audio in my 700 while driving. Restarting it did not help. Contacting Magellan I was told first they were NOT supporting the 700 any longer and that the only thing I could do was trade it in for $100 for a newer model. I wrote a letter to the President of Magellan expressing my disappointment with such support considering I paid over $1200 when I bought it brand new 2.5 years ago. As a result, I got a call later from the Magellan repair in Texas and was told that since my unit was out of warranty they would repair my audio problem for a flat fee of $150.95, NOT $49.95. Well, I sent it in with a fee in April, 2007. Guess what? The audio stopped working once again in August. I am out of luck and my money, since the warranty on the repair was only 30 days. Isn't this something? NO MORE MAGELLAN BRAND FOR ME, that's for sure.
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maybe its possible that you could have mixed the the power lock trigger with the remote wire. undo setup and grab a test light and test all your wires especially the power and ground wires. Also test all the wires while clicking the clicker, so you see if anything there's a positive or negative trigger setting it off. Let me know how everything turns out.
REPLACE BATTERY CABLES THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE COULD BE SHORTING TO GROUND.REPLACE STARTER SOLENOID IF NOT BEEN REPLACED.BESURE TO PLACE BACK FLEXIBLE CONDUIT THAT GOES AROUND POSITIVE BATTERY KEEP FROM SHORTING TO GROUND. LAST TIME I SEEN BATTERY CABLES OVER HEAT WAS EITHER STARTER AND SOLENOID SHORTING OUT OR VERY LOOSE BATTERY CABLES CONNECTIONS. REPLACE BATTERY CABLES IF THEY ARE MELTED HAVE STARTER CHECKED OUT YOU COULD HAVE FAULTY STARTER STILL.
Most aftermarket cd players have the following wiring diagrams (+)Red..............12v ignition
(+)Yellow...........12v battery (Memory) Constant Hot
(+)Blue.............12v Power antenna
(+)Blue/white.......12v Remote turn on
(+)White............Front left positive
(-)White/black......Front left negative
(+)Grey.............Front right positive
(-)Grey/black.......Front right negative
(+)Green............Rear left positive
(-)Green/black......Rear left negative
(+)Purple...........Rear right positive
(-)Purple/black.....Rear right negative
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Car Audio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Light Green Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Blue Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Light Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue/White Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green/Orange Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): White/Light Green Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6? x 8? Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Doors Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Tan/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Red Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Pink
Sounds like its a distributor. To test if its sparking at all take the plug wire and hold a screw driver and see if it arcs to the screw driver when you crank it. but heres the best way to diagnose it on your vehicle follow the following steps and let me know from there what happens.
1 Remove the spark plug wires one at a time and insert a small screw driver into the wire.(SEE WARNINGS) Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts. Hold the wire so that the screw driver is 1/8” away from the engine. Have someone crank the engine and watch for a good white spark. If you have a good spark on all wires look for a problem with timing or something else.
2 Remove the distributor cap. Have someone crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed and observe if it is turning? That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one. If the distributor is not turning then likely you have a broken timing belt or chain.
3 Turn the ignition key on but don't crank the engine. Locate the positive or power wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. If this has power, then the wiring from the ignition switch is OK.
4 Locate the negative or ground wire attached to the engine coil. Using a test light check for power. This sounds strange however, one end on a good battery ground and the other on the negative wire attached to the engine coil. The test light will light up indicating power on the negative side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
5 Have someone crank the engine while watching the test light. If you observe the test light flickering when cranking the engine and you have no spark, either the coil wire is faulty of the coil is dead. Test these using an Ohm meter.# If no flickering or pulsating was observed then check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens. This is the negative wire back to it's source, the ignition module.
6 Check the pulse generator in the distributor if it has a distributor cap. Some newer cars don’t have one,and if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.
7 With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. If this is observed then the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If no A/C signal is observed then you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
8 Know that if this part of the primary ignition tests OK then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. If wiring tests are OK. Suspect the ECM or computer as a last resort.
Be careful as you don’t want to get shocked with 60,000volts.
be careful when checking the leads for sparks with a screwdriver doing it this way can cause very expensive damage on newer engins best use a spare spark plug or a proper tester for this job
The Wht/Blue wire is allways 12 volts; The Ylw/Red is switched only when the car key is on accessories.
1994 Isuzu Amigo Car Radio Wiring Schematic
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: White/Blue Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Red Car Radio Ground Wire: Black Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/White Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 5 1/4′ Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/Black Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Green Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Black Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 5 1/4′ Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Side Panels Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Blue/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray/White Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red/Yellow Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/White
with the ignition in the "off" position get a test light and touch one wire at a time while cycling the ignition switch to the "on" position, When you see that the test light goes off when the ignition switch is in the off position then you found the hot wire, make sure you dont hook it up to the "alway hot " wire or you might drain the battery hope this helps.