Question about GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator

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Not cooling my amana refrigerrator quit cooling. I cleaned all the lint underneath it. Compressor runs and the evap coils frost up. Noticed the evap fan not running. removed fan bench tested, works fine. could the problem be defrost time?

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  • sharma50 Mar 16, 2009

    freezer quit cooling, a day later refrigerator quit cooling, seems like the frig is not running at all

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Replace heater and defrost timer

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

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Bx21te The freezer quit working a week ago and now the refrigerator is not working either. There is no frost buildup in the back anywhere and the coils are clean underneath. It is fifteen years old.


That's your call to ix or replace... I would first check to see if the condenser fan is running, (is the fan blade turning) you could have something caught in the fan. If it appears to be working listen to see if you can hear the compressor, maybe put your hand on it to feel the vibration, if it doesn't appear working replace the start relay and overload which is underneath the black box on the side of the compressor and that should get you going. Sounds like from your explanation you could have low or no freon.

Dec 19, 2013 | Amana Refrigerators

8 Answers

Freezer not cooling properly


Hi,

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Dec 13, 2008 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Refrigerator not cooling freezer not cold


If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

The compressor

The Thermostat

The overload, relay, or capacitor

The defrost timer

The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater

to check these components .... please refer to my solution in the below link....

http://www.fixya.com/support/t4189238-defroster_not_working_checked_defrost

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

If I've been of Help to you... kindly take a moment to rate this solution.

Jul 08, 2010 | Amana SXD524VW Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Not cooling


If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”
Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

The compressor

The Thermostat

The overload, relay, or capacitor

The defrost timer

The condenser fan motor

Cooling is poor
For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
The defrost timer
The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)
The defrost heater

to check these components .... please refer to my solution in the below link....

http://www.fixya.com/support/t4189238-defroster_not_working_checked_defrost

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem
Condenser
Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

If I've been of Help to you... kindly take a moment to rate this solution.

May 30, 2010 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Freezer not cold


Hi,

You need to investigate the below mentioned :-

It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Sep 08, 2009 | Amana Refrigerators

1 Answer

Not cooling enough


sometimes you do everything proper and when repair is done another failure occurs because of long run times because not defrstng . the orginal freon charge may have been alittle on the low side and weakened the compressor what you can do is tap the seal system and add 1/2 of the orginal charge listed below the model # should be 134a this will often work for quite some time and remove the panel off the evap in the frzr and observe the frosting on the coils it should be uniform on the evap with no places getting missed if you can not tell temporily move frzr item and unplug to allow frost to thaw then plug back in and open door allow to run 30 min then look at again if only on part of the evap perhaps top or the lower then you know the orginal charge was low then add freon it sound you are very mech person and possible you may need to add the orginal charge to unit (the compressor has taken heat and it has weakened it)

Aug 20, 2009 | Amana ARS266ZBS Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

Fridge wasn't cooling but freezer was working, now both aren't


Hi,Your husband did good job, after cleaning and vacuuming, did freezer (bottom) have excessive ice?, if there's excessive ice in bottom, after cleaning, you have a defrost problem, but if there're no ice in freezer after cleaning, you got freon (gas leak) , there's a condensate loop, that passes through ref. body, from compressor that naturally develop, freon leak after few years, by rusting, normally it can be by- pass. vacuum and refill with freon, if there's no freezing, but compressor running, you'll need a mechanic, you got a freon leak. good luck.

Aug 10, 2009 | Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Whirlpool el7atrrkq01 won't cool


First, please re-check to see if both fans are running, the condenser fan by the compressor and the evap fan in the freezer. Next, empty the freezer and remove the evap cover. look at the evap coils. Are they completly frosted up -- if so, you have a defrost problem - this will cause the condition you describe- IF they are not frosted, are only a few of the passes of coil frosted and some just wet with no frost? Then that means you need some freon. The fact that you have some cooling means that the compressor is probabaly OK.

Sep 01, 2008 | Whirlpool EL7ATRR Refrigerator

1 Answer

Warm fridge


how is the freezer side check theese and get back to me hold the rating till we are done is the freezer fan running as the freezer cools both sides is there heavy frost on the back wall of the freezer down toward the bottom is the compressor running is the fan that cools the compressor running are the coils underneath the unit clean is the ice cream to soft milk too warm

Mar 02, 2008 | Amana ASD 2624 Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Amana not cooling


Take the back cover off and look at the frost. If the frost is only at the bottom of the coils then you are low on R-12 or R-134 and the defrost t-stat is cutting out to quick. If the coils are well frosted then you have a bad t-stat.

Dec 09, 2007 | Refrigerators

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