Wiring diagram this 12 V DC fridge is not working correctly, the problem is this: when you switch to cool all the green led's come on, however it will not cool, also when you switch to warm, the first red led comes on, however only for about 1 minute. I have checked the unit in center between the aluminium fins and i get cool, also warm when i connect to 12 V DC.on the PCB it has the following KNL-316 Kernel also VER.2.0 04/2/24. so if possible i need a wiring diagram. have replaced the 2 Bridge rectifers.

Based on the information provided, it seems that the Norcold N611R fridge in the travel trailer is experiencing issues with cooling on AC power. The green and yellow LEDs are blinking, and the fridge stops cooling after running for a random number of hours. The gas cooling seems to be working fine, and the fuses, AC/DC power, and power board have been checked and replaced.

One possible cause of this issue could be a faulty heating element. To check if the heater is working properly, you can use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the heater. The resistance should be between 44 and 52 ohms. If the resistance is outside of this range, then the heater may need to be replaced.

Another possible cause of this issue could be a problem with the thermostat or temperature control system. If the temperature control system is not functioning properly, then it may not be able to maintain a consistent temperature in the fridge, which could cause it to stop cooling after a certain amount of time.

It is also possible that there is an issue with the wiring or connections in the fridge. If there is a loose or damaged wire or connection, then this could cause intermittent cooling issues.

In order to diagnose and fix this issue, it may be necessary to consult with a professional technician who has experience working with Norcold fridges.

Running on AC always cools down faster. If you plug it in to AC and the fridge cools quickly then the switch position is AC. Turn on a 12 volt light. Watch the lite while you operate the switch. When the light dims a little the switch position is in the DC mode.

Fuse in the plug?
Sounds like a good design...........

[Since I do not know, is this an indication that the power cord's plug, on the surge protector side; has a fuse in it? ]

So what is the method to check a fuse?
Is it the preferred method to eyeball it?
No
A multimeter set to OHM's, should be used to check it. (1K)

"It looks like the fuse element is going across okay"
Not always true. May be present, but not actually be touching one of the ends, and fool you.

Going with the premise that you KNOW;
A) The fuse to be good
B) The power cord TO Power Supply is good.
C) THE receptacle in the surge protector, that you have the power cord plugged into; is good.

Reasoning on the last statement?
I have had Many surge protectors, where just THAT receptacle was bad.
"Hmmm, power LED light is on, so surge protector is on,
router has power, monitor has power, and so does the printer.
Let me plug a table lamp into THAT receptacle, the computer is plugged into........"

Nope! NADA!

Power is KNOWN to be getting TO Power Supply?

Okay. Suggest a simple test now.
This test determines if the problem is the Power Supply; Or the Power On switch.......

The test is to use a jumper wire, on the ATX main power cable's connector.

Do Not know which one the Medion has.
It is either a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

[NOTE* Color of connectors does NOT matter ]

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

Whichever one your Power Supply has, look for the GREEN wire.
The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire. (Abbreviated as PS_ON)

The Green wire is Temporarily jumped to ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a straightened out paperclip, bent into a U-shape.
Turn the U-shape over.
The top of the U is wrapped a few times with black plastic electrical tape. (Color doesn't matter. It's just that Black is more common)

This taped area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.
The 'Legs' coming down, are what is used.

Power Supply plugged into power, and 20 or 24-pin ATX main power cable; plugged into motherboard.

The BACK of the ATX main power cable's connector, is where the wires go in.
It is the Back of the ATX main power cable's connector, where the U-shaped jumper wire is to be used.

One leg slides down into a socket hole, that has the Green wire in it.
Slides RIGHT NEXT TO the green insulation of the wire, and down into the socket hole.

MUST slide down into the socket hole far enough, that the U-shaped jumper wire touches a female metal terminal; that is on the end of the Green wire.

This is an example of what the female metal terminal connector, looks like,

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9420&utm_medium=Affiliate&ref=cj&utm_campaign=CommissionJunction&utm_source=CommissionJunction?utm_expid=8634549-14

Looking back at the Playtool link, look at the middle photo.
There you see the ATX main power cable, unplugged from the motherboard, and you see a FRONT view of the connector.
Here you can make out the open end, of the metal terminal connectors mentioned above.

The jumper wire must touch the Back of this connector.
(Jumper wire has to go Approximately 3/8ths of an inch, down into the socket hole.
.375 inches)

Moving on........

The other leg of the U-shaped jumper wire, goes down into ANY socket hole with a Black wire in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)

[This is a DC circuit. There is a Positive, and a Negative.
ALL power wires are Positive wires. ALL Black wires are negative wires. { Ground ]

The Soft Power On circuit uses 5 Volts DC.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC.

NOT stating there may be a small spark!
It's just the way electricity works.
For this reason you may wish to wear a glove, on the jumper wire hand.

The contact period made is no more than 2 seconds.
The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.

IF, the Power Supply turns on you have a bad Power On switch.
IF, the Power Supply does NOT turn on, you have a bad Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer is a Converter.
It converts HIGH AC voltage down to 3 LOW DC voltages;
3.3 Volts DC
5 Volts DC
12 Volts DC

EACH one is a Voltage Power Rail.

Orange wires are 3.3 Volt wires
Red wires are 5 Volts
Yellow wires are 12 Volts
(ALL Black wires are Ground/Negative wires)

EVERY wire that is Orange, is a 3.3 Volt (DC) wire.
ALL Orange wires go back TO the Power Supply.
They all connect TO the 3.3 Volt power rail, in the Power Supply.

EVERY wire that is Red, is a 5 Volt wire.
ALL Red wires connect to the 5 Volt power rail, in the Power Supply.

The same can be said for All Yellow wires.
ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volt wires.
ALL Yellow 12 Volt wires connect to the 12 Volt power rail, in the Power Supply.

IF, just one voltage power rail is weak, the computer will NOT work.

A) If ALL of the LED's were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

C) A typical Processor (CPU) can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what CPU (Processor) it is.

[LED = Light Emitting Diode. It is redundant to refer to it as an LED light. That is saying it is a Light Emitting Diode light ]

That is why you may see LED's light, and maybe fans spin, but no computer working.
NOT enough power to turn the Processor (CPU) on...........

[Just in case you get this far, and this happens]

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

The above ATX power on switch, is used in a LOT of desktop computers.

The Power On button is an assembly. it has the Power On switch, inside it.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Or click on Reply at end of solution.

Regards,
joecoolvette

http://www.ascendtech.us/acer-aspire-sa90-mbs7109002-motherboard_i_mbacembs7109002.aspx

The front of your computer is the Front Panel.
The area of pins on the motherboard, that the main wires from the Front panel go to, is the Front Panel header.

Looking at the Front Panel header it is parallel to the outside edge on the bottom/right of the motherboard.

13 pin header.
6 across the Top row with 1 pin missing, 7 across the Bottom row.

Top row is numbered EVEN
Starting on LEFT side coming across to the Right, Top row;
Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, No Pin, 12, and 14.

Pins 2 and 4 have a Green area
Pins 6 and 8 have a Red area
No Pin 10.
Pins 12, and 14 have a Yellow area

Bottom row is numbered ODD.
Starting on LEFT side coming across to the Right, Bottom row;
Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, and 13.

Pins 2 and 4 have a Green area
Pins 6 and 8 have a Red area
No Pin 10.
Pins 12 and 14 have a Green area.

A) Pins 2 and 4 in the Green area (Top left) are for the Power On LED
Pin 2 is for the Positive ( + ) wire.
If the Power On LED is dim when the computer is on, switch the wires around.

B) Pins 6 and 8 in the Red area are for the Power On switch.

C) Pins 12 and 14 are N/C. Not Connected

D) Pins 1 and 3 in the Yellow area, are for the HarDDrive activity LED light.
Pin 1 is for the Positive wire.
If the HDD LED is dim when the harddrive is active, switch the wires around.

E) Pins 5 and 7 in the Purple area, are for a Reset switch, IF a Reset switch is used.

F) Pins 9, 11, and 13 are N/C.
(Pin 9 is 5 Volts DC. Used by the factory for testing)

Regards,
joecoolvette

(I thought the internal speaker was that round little 'buzzer', below the bottom white PCI slot, (PCI 2), and close to the edge of the motherboard )

1) Check to see if the problem is the Power On switch, or the Power Supply, first.

Use a multimeter on the two wires coming from the Power On switch.
Perform a continuity test of the switch.

How?
An economical multimeter can be purchased, for as little as $8 to $12. Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.

Make notes, and a drawing as to where those two wires go, on the Front panel header, on the motherboard. Then disconnect the two wires, and hold them in your hand.

Set the Function knob of the multimeter to OHM's. (1K, or 10K)
Touch the Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter to one wire.
Touch the Negative (Black) probe lead of the multimeter, to the other wire.
Press the Power On switch. (Button)

You should see a brief reading on the multimeter scale. (Or readout if the multimeter is digital)
It is brief because the Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch.

No reading? Bad ATX power on switch,

http://www.directron.com/atxswitch.html

Good reading? The Power Supply may be bad.
Test the three main voltages coming from the Power Supply.

[NOTE*
The Switched-Mode Power Supply, (SMPS), in your computer, is a power converter. It converts AC electricity from your home, or business, into three LOW DC voltages.

The shock hazard is IN the Power Supply's case. Not from the low DC voltages it produces ]

A) 3.3 Volt power rail
B) 5 Volt power rail
C) 12 Volt power rail

Test at the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector,

http://usa.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_Socket_754/K8VX_SE/

Photo, shows the white, long 20-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard. No power cable plugged in.
Two rows of 10 socket holes.
(Above the blue Heatsink that sits on the Northbridge chip )

This is a general example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Power cable plugged in as shown in the right photo.
I suggest using a straightened out paper clip, and sticking it down in the socket for the power wire.
This is for the Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, to touch to.

First voltage power wire check:
The multimeter function knob is set to DC Voltage. If just a symbol, the symbol is a dotted line, over a solid line.
IF there is more than one DC Voltage scale, for the Function knob to be set to, set it to the 0 - 50 Volt scale.

The straightened out paperclip, will go down into the BACK of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector, RIGHT NEXT to the Orange wire.
Has to go down far enough, to go past the Orange insulation of the wire, and TOUCH the metal terminal down in the bottom.

[Looking at the middle photo, you can see the tips of the metal terminals I am referring to.
Uninstalled, and end not crimped over the wire's insulation, this is what they look like,

http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0002081202_CRIMP_TERMINALS.xml&channel=Products&Lang=en-US

Left side shown, crimps over the insulation of the wire.
The far right side is what you are seeing the tip of, in the middle photo of the Playtool link ]

You can use ANY of the Orange wires you see. ALL are 3.3 Volt wires.
The Negative (Black) probe lead of the Multimeter, touches ANY Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.
(Straightened out paperclip, also goes down in the Black wire's socket hole )

Put the straightened out paperclips in the appropriate socket holes, then plug the Power Supply into power. Press the Power On button, and start the Power Supply.

On the DC scale of the multimeter you should be reading VERY close to 3.3 Volts.

Good?
Go to ANY Red wire. ALL Red wires are 5 Volts (DC)
Positive (Red) probe lead of multimeter to straightened out paper clip, down into a socket hole, with ANY red wire.

Negative (Black) probe lead of multimeter to straightened out paperclip, in ANY socket hole with a Black wire.
Reading should be VERY close to 5 Volts. (DC)

Good?
Go to ANY Yellow wire. ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts. (DC)
Reading should be VERY close to 12 Volts. (11.5 to 12 Volts)

ANY low reading means a bad Power Supply.

Primer:
1) If ALL of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

2) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

3) A typical Processor can use 51 to 125 watts of power.

From your brief diagnoses it looks to be a bad Power Supply.
barely enough to light the green LED light on the motherboard.
Not enough power to even spin fans, much less turn the Processor on.

Power Supply checks out?
Perform a visual check of the Electrolytic Capacitors on the motherboard. Look CLOSE, and you may need a light, and magnifying glass.

http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

Capacitors on the motherboard are used as Filters, and Voltage Regulators.
The one's used as voltage regulators, are in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit.
Some of the one's used in the motherboard voltage regulator circuit, regulate voltage for the Processor.

A Processor MUST have a steady, 'clean', supply of Voltage, and it MUST be kept within a very 'tight' tolerance range. Cannot be too much, or too little, or BIOS will not turn the Processor on.
(Or if on, will not keep it on)

That's an old motherboard. Could be bad capacitors, but I'm more willing to bet on a bad Power Supply.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

test all leads that attach to your hard drive including electrical extensions SATA

the leads from your (motherboard to your hard drive) make sure they have a secure dust free connections and are not faulty or just replace them they could be faulty

make sure all leads that are attached to your drives dvd\cd have secure connections and are not faulty

even something as small as an electrical extension or a faulty fan lead can cause you problems computer needs all of the data and power to travel through every working device and to have an end for a computer to be able work properly

a motherboard and a hard drive any leads between them will fail before your motherboard or your hard drive check all electrical extensions make sure they are securely seated even the cd/dvd drives need to have current go through make sure these devices are working

check the CPU make sure it has thermal paste and dust free secure seating

also check your computer ram modules and cmos battery make sure it has charge and they are dust free and securely seated some motherboards cmos batteries are soldered in

hope it helps

You need to bypass the on/off switch by jumping it, thereby taking the switch out of the circuit. If it works you have a bad switch. If it doesn't you have a power to the switch problem. Do you have a multimeter and a wiring diagram for this unit?

Pinout (Wiring diagram) for the GigaByte GA-8I865GVME motherboard's Front Panel header,

(Looks like a 1 but it is an 'Eye'. GA-8 i 865GVME ),
{The plastic front of your computer is the Front Panel.
The area of pins on the motherboard, that the Front Panel cables (Wires) connect to, is the Front Panel header }

;Motherboard Manual download page,

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1933&dl=1#manual

Look under the heading - English
Look across from English, and click on the country name nearest yours.

This is a PDF file. After you click on the server country it may take 30 seconds or more, to see the first page come up.
It may also take additional time for the file to fully download.
(Took approximately 30 seconds just now for me. Medium speed DSL connection)

At the top of the PDF file is the page number box. It is to the right of the Down Arrow.
Go to Page 6.

Processor to the top, Ram Memory slots to the right, the Front Panel header is at the bottom right corner.
(F_PANEL)

It is two rows of pins that are laid out horizontally. It is parallel to the bottom outside edge of the motherboard.

Go to Page 22.
F_PANEL (Front Panel Jumper)

The pins are numbered Even on the top, and Odd on the bottom.

Starting at the Left side of the motherboard going to the Right, for the TOP row of pins;

Pins 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, and 20

Starting at the Left side of the motherboard going to the Right, for the BOTTOM row of pins;

Pins 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, and 19

A) Pins 2 and 4 are for the Power On LED light. (On the computer case. Not on the motherboard)
(Pin 2 is for the Positive { + } wire.
If the LED light is dim, switch the wires around )

B) Pins 6 and 8 are for the Power On switch. (Plastic - Power On button assembly has the Power On switch inside it)

C) Pins 10 and 12 are not used. In fact there probably isn't any pins.

D) Pins 14, 16, 18, and 20 are used for an internal 'speaker'. The 'speaker' is used so you can hear any BIOS Error Codes. (The computers way of telling you something is wrong, and an area to look into for it)

E) Pins 1 and 3 are for the HarDDrive activity LED light.
The LED light that blinks when the harddrive is active in use.
(Pin 1 is for the Positive wire)

F) Pins 5 and 7 are for a Reset switch, IF USED.

G) Pin 9 is NC. Not Connected


To Add:
1) If the Dell Dimension 4600 power on LED light has 3 wires, it is a dual color LED.
Only use two of the wires, and one color.
(Follow the wires to the LED light. One is a Ground wire { - }, and the other two are positive wires for the dual colors of the LED )

2) The Front USB headers are on Page 24

Make sure your Power Supply has a 4-pin ATX +12 volt power cable. Plugs into the square connector on the motherboard, to the bottom Left corner of the Processor socket.
It is power for the Processor.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atx12v4

CAUTION!!

For a time period Dell was really @nal about being a Proprietary computer manufacturer.
This means they wanted THEIR parts used in THEIR computers.
I don't know if your Dimension 4600 falls into this category, or not.

They switched the pins around in the ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard.
Go to Page 18.
Look at the connector that has 20 socket holes. (Two columns of 10 socket holes)

The Dell Dimension 4600 also has a 20-pin ATX main power cable connector, on the motherboard,

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4600/en/4600i/sm/techov.htm#1138239

Scroll the page down a little, look at the illustration for the DC Power Connector P1
See how the power and color of the wires are labeled for each pin in the connector?

Orient the connector by the lock tab on the side of it. Now compare the color chart here for the wires in a standard 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

A) Orange colored wires are 3.3 Volts
B) Red wires are 5 Volts
C) Yellow wires are 12 Volts
D) ALL Black wires are Ground wires
(ALL are DC voltage)

Guess what would happen if a 12 volt wire is connected to a pin that uses 3.3 Volts, or 5 Volts?
Yep, lets the 'Smoke' out of the motherboard.

Guess what would happen if a 3.3 , 5, or 12 volt wire is plugged into a pin that is a Ground wire?
Same thing. Will fry the motherboard. Possibly the Processor, Ram Memory, Harddrive, and so on, also.

Check before you plug in, and turn the computer on.

For additional questions, or to clarify anything I have stated, please post in a Comment.
(Believe upper right of your page. Our site is constantly undergoing changes)

Regards,
joecoolvette

http://www.gas-refrigerators.com/pdf/RM2193-parts.pd According to the wireing diagram you DON'T switch both switches on at the same time.

you are missing something
you describe 3 led lights --2 green and one unlit then you go on about a red led light
suggest that you get in an accredited electrician to check the circuit
it is possible that you are testing with the wring tester