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Rainsoft gold series water softener

We have the salt alarm set correctly, there is salt in the machine. But the alarm continually goes off. We go shut it off and 2-3 days later it alarms again

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: low salt alarm

If you've had the saltwater system very long, the titanium plates can get coated with calcium deposits (especially if you live in an area with hard water). Disconnect the hoses and the flow sensor to inspect the plates. You'll probably see a white coating in between the plates. If so take a garden hose with a nozzle and flush the plates clean. You may need to use a small soft brush for the harder deposits. I had to do this once a week so this year I filled the pool with softened water.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

  • 297 Answers

SOURCE: Green water with salt water filtration system- HELP

you can not blindly just add salt
you need a salt test kit that reads #'s, not color
Get your salt content to as close to 3000ppm as you can any lower than 2800 and you will not produce enough chlorine and any more than 3500 and it will taste bad and could make your water cloudy or trigger high salt alarms
Also remeber to run filter only for 24 hours after adding salt

you also need to realize that a pool goes green for many reasons lack of sanitizer,heat,sun,rain,sun tan oil, 3 of swimmers
A pool need to be turned over at the bare minimum of 3-4 times in a day.
Intex filters are not sufficient to properly do the task
only a good sand filter and seperate pump of about 1 horse will really keep a pool sufficiently cleand but if you follow my advise you can do it with the intex
lets start with the filtering I believe your pool is around 5000 gl

if you have a 2000 gl ph pump then you need to be filtering 7 1/2 -10 hours just to keep your pool clear you do the math for you
as for grnerating your chlorine time varies depending on the situations I mentioned earlier
it is good you are using a stabilizer but that only goes so far if it was hot and sunny and a lot of use chlorine will get ate up any way
And make sure your algaecide is a non foaming kind and stick to the directions
now to your problem at hand
you now need to as you did shock it but you also need to use a lot of elbow grease and remeber this is going to be tedius

Clean your cartridge with the garden hose blast it in the folds as hard as you can
start your filter again and now add 2 gallons of chlorine or house hold bleach

let filter for 12 hours and then with a pool brush not the bristles under your vacuum head scrub the sides and walls continue filtering until you see the settled algae and then vacuum

now clean your cartridge again and repeat if the chlorine is still high you do not need to add but if it went low again then add 1 more gallon

continue doing this until you can see a huge difference
once you can then start with your algaecide again
at this point overdose it as directed on the bottle once your chlorine is low enough to get in then you need to get in and brush under the seems
with the intex liner there are too many seams and folds that need to be addressed

another hint is to have 2 filters one drying while the other is in the unit
a wet freshly cleaned filter does not work and trap particles as well as one that has been dried

Another good chemical to use is a water clarifier this helps minute particles that you can not see clump together thus making it easier for thr cartridge to trap

good luck and if you have any more questions you can e-mail me through this site

Posted on Jul 09, 2010

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SOURCE: brown water

When you fill a pool with new water ... the first thing to do is remove the metals. Did you do that? This should be done with a sequestering agent ... "Metal Out" is one generic name. Treat according to the package instructions. You should treat for metal before any other product is added to the water. I believe you are seeing 'rust' from the iron in your water. The salt did it If you said green I would say you have copper or mag in the water. You may have a variety of metals in the water. Nitrates? Get rid of them ... they will eat the CL as soon as you add it. If yours is a gunnite pool, expect serious staining. To remove staining, consult your pool professional.

It is probably too late for the above ... let the CL go to zero or add some thiosulfate to kill it. Get it at the pool supply place. Use according to package instructions. Then go back to the start and add the metal out, etc.

After the metal is out of the water, you should raise the CL level - 2 to 4 PPM - using liquid or dry CL. Your filter should run 24/7. When the pressure on your filter increases 10 PSI, you should back wash - NOT BEFORE!

Check your Alkalinity ... get it to 100. When this is done (and this will not happen in minutes - it will take hours ... move slow on adding chemicals. You already saw what speedy adding of chemicals does (Brown Water)

When the Alk is 100, (use Sodium Bi Carb or dry acid for this) then adjust your pH - (use Bi Carb or dry acid for this). Your pH goal is 7.4 (7.2 to 7.8 is acceptible).

Now is the time to add salt (after your water is balanced!). There is a chart in your salt machine instruction manual that will tell you how much salt to use. Your goal should be about 3200 ppm salt. If the salt is low, you will not make CL at all. If the salt is high, you will have to dump some water to dilute back to around 3200 ppm.

You should consider adding Cyanuric Acid to your pool to around 60 - 80 ppm. Cyanuric acid will protect the CL in your out of doors pool. Just a side note, dry CL normally comes with cyanuric acid in it for stabilizing. Since you are making CL, you will need to add the cyanuric acid to protect it.

You don't say if you are gunnite or plastic ... if gunnite - you should consider your calcium level. Calcium should be around 300 ppm. (you can go as high as 1000) To much (more than 1000), you have to dulute it with water that is lower in the mineral. If there is little or none, the water will take the mineral from the surface of your pool - not good. Again, your goal is 300 ppm

This is all information that your Pool Tech guy will charge you $ for - or you can get it free from your pool chemical supply place. You also got it free here at from this volunteer CPO (Certified Pool Operator) question catcher. Please remember to evaluate this response.

Thank you for your interest in

Posted on Jul 12, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hi i have a 18 x 48 above ground intex frame pool

flow pump low signal comes up

Posted on Jul 19, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Low salt alarm on Intex system

I had the same problem and my father just kept adding salt wo telling me and it kept saying low salt-I called intex they said to clean the cell with vinegar as instructed in book, and if that didnt help to call back for a warranty claim on the unit bc I just purchased mine in June. I am currently waiting on it to come in. We had to drain half the pool and refill with water and start over. be careful!

Posted on Jul 29, 2010

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Manually drain the floor of the machine, put in salt, and check out.
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Hi there,

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