Sediment in hot water

1) The pressure release valve is operating correctly and the sound it made is typical.
So pressure release is okay.
Always protect yourself from very hot water that can spray out of pressure release.

2) Rumbling sound is typical sign of sediment build-up inside tank, and usually indicates that tank needs to be cleaned out.
Seems odd that a brand-new tank could have sediment after only 8-9 months.
Did somebody recycle a 'new-looking' heater and sell it as 'new' heater?
Look at label on side of tank, and find brand and serial number to find actual age of water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/WaterHeaterSerialNumberDecoder.pdf

3) Because sound might not be sediment.
You can add a comment and it will send e-mail, and I will continue to answer.
No reason to be terrified of water heater. They are very safe, and homeowner can fix electric water heater same day for a few dollars.

4) Please listen to exactly where sound is coming from.

5) If sound seems to come from the pipes, and pipes are vibrating, then the plumbing is suspect, for example a check-valve, or pressure valve, and we can talk about that when you add a comment.

6) If sound is from inside the tank, then I suggest you turn off power, let water cool, drain water heater, open bottom of water heater, remove element, and check for sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

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Maybe more than 1 problem: Suspects are: crossover, sediment or assorted gunk is built up in bottom of tank, or a loose wire or bad circuit breaker, or loose connection somewhere at water heater.
There is no off-peak setting unless you wire up the water heater differently or install a timer.

1) When water is cold, open TP valve at hot water heater to see if tank has hot water.
If tank has hot water, but it does not arrive at faucet, then suspect is crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

2) To test if circuit breaker is problem, move wires to different circuit breaker with same amp rating:
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

3) Turn off power, open connection at top of heater and check that wire nuts are tight
Check all wire connections for signs of high heat and burning.

4) If bottom is filled with gunk, the lower part of heater can be slow to heat and will take so long that top part of heater will cool. Clean sediment out of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Sounds like a plumbing problem.

Since no tap gets hot water, chances are good the problem lies in the hot water pipes between the water heater to the first Tee.
Look for sediment lodged in water heater hot water pipe.
Or sediment lodged in elbow or Tee.

Other problems can be in play.
Faulty check valve or mixing valve if these are installed.
Faulty recirculation system if this is installed.
Also crossover at single-handled faucet where the cartridge is bad and lets the cold water flow into hot water pipe whenever another faucet is turned on. If you are getting cold water out the hot tap, and you know the hot water heater has hot water, then crossover is suspect > in addition to sediment blockage at hot water heater.

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try by draining tank. it may have sediment build up in it. heres how. go to www.ehow.com/how_5544402_drain-hot-water-tank.html this site will explain it better. have a good day! Sediment can drift into recirculation lines, jam open check valves, and cause the recirc pump to stick until it burns out. it causes noise, sometimes enough noise to annoy, or even frighten, people if the tank is inside a dwelling. The noise is caused by small amounts of water under the sediment layer turning to steam bubbles, which then collapse violently.

You can increase the temperature of your water by adjusting the water heater setting. As for your water pressure, the following could be the problem:

1) you could have a partially blocked aerator (on the end of your faucet)
2) You could have partially blocked pipes (due to sediment accumulation)
3) You could have a partially blocked water filter
4) You could have a defective water contaiment tank (if you have your own well).

Please remember to rate this solution. Thanks!

You have 240Volt Marathon water heater.
These heaters have element burn-out problems.
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Yes sediment can cause decreased amount of hot water when water cannot circulate around lower element, and sediment can cause lower element to burn out.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

Following list is overview of tank troubleshoot:

If you have some hot water, then that says several things:
-Upper element is working.
-Electricity from circuit breaker to upper thermostat is good.
-ECO reset button is not tripped.
-You do not have overheating event.
-Access doors and insulation are in place and thermostat not exposed to cool temperature that causes overheating.

That leaves following suspects:
1) Check if TP valve is stuck open, or pipe cracked, or faucet leaking and running hot water down a drain.

2) Upper or lower thermostat is bad.

3) Lower element is bad -and- maybe tank has built-up sediment
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

4) Loose wire. Open covers and inspect. Tighten screws very tight against copper wire.

5) Bad wire between upper and lower sections of tank.

6) Do complete 30 minute troubleshoot before replacing any parts.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

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You have a clog in the hot water line.
If problem is at one faucet, then remove aerator and clean, then disassemble lines underneath sink.

If problem is at every faucet, then that moves search close to water heater.
Look at hot water line that exits water heater and trace that line to first Tee.
Look at cold water line that enters water heater and trace that line to Tee.
Clog is located between those 2 Tees.

Buy pressure tester that connects to hose thread.

Connect pressure gauge to hot water heater drain valve.
Then conduct same test you did at faucet.
See if pressure drops at tank.

If pressure drops, then clog is on cold side of tank, and probably hot side too.
If pressure does not drop, then clog is on hot side of tank.

Suspect 1 is any place two different metals join. For example galvanized pipe and copper.
Suspect 2 is supply pipes that exit top of tank. Take apart and look inside pipes for corrosion and sediment lining pipe walls.
Suspect 3 is elbow. Disassemble pipes and look for sediment and flakes of rust.
Suspect 4 is all suspects above, each having sediment and corrosion.

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Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

There are two water lines connected to water heater.
One is marked Hot and the other Cold.
The shut off valve is on the Cold line.

To eliminate sand and dirt from entering your water heater, the 'sediment' filter should be installed on Cold line.
Sand and dirt are sometimes called sediment, but this type of sediment is not the same as calcium carbonate sediment that accumulates inside a tank that receives hard water.

When you have hard water, then water heater makes calcium carbonate 'sediment' deposits that accumulate in bottom of tank. A 'sediment' filter will not prevent this problem.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

If you have hard water, to prevent calcium carbonate from forming inside tank, you need a water softener.
Water softener will prevent calcium carbonate sediment forming inside tank.
However water softener will shorten life of water heater anode rod.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
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Electric water heater if fully repairable by homeowner:

A] First of all, we know your upper element is working because you have some hot water:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html
That says tank is not overheating.
It says tank is getting 240Volts.
It we know water heater is 240Volts because you have 2 elements.
And it says reset button is not tripped.

B] That leaves 4 suspects:
Suspect 1) Bad Upper thermostat or Bad Lower thermostat: solution replace both thermostats for about 25$. Steps shown in link below.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 2) Burned out Lower element: solution take out element, clean sediment out of tank, put in new element. Steps shown in link below
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html
Suspect 3) Loose wire or connection: solution open covers and remove insulation and look for signs of burning and high heat. Tighten all screws very tight. Replace burned part. Put insulation and covers back over thermostat so thermostat not exposed to cool air which will cause thermostat to misread tank temperature.

C] Before replacing anything, you can test water heater parts and determine exact cause of problem. Testing requires $5 multimeter from Lowes or Home Depot:
Install battery in multimeter.
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate multimeter dial to 240 or 250 or 277 Volts.
When test calls for testing continuity, rotate multimeter dial to ohms (upside down horseshoe symbol is ohms)
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
After doing 30 minutes of testing, you will be expert in water heaters.

D] You replaced elements for a reason.
Did you test elements before replacing?
Was tank producing some hot water before you replaced elements?
If tank producing some hot water, then lower element was bad, and upper element was good.

And when you replaced lower element, did you also clean sediment out of tank?

If sediment builds up inside tank, it will reach lower element and burn out the element.
That could have been original problem, and it could be same problem again.
Restore full efficiency to tank by cleaning out sediment and replacing lower element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

E} More reading to preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store