Question about Cooper Wiring Devices Aspire Dimmer Switch, Desert Sand

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Switch doesn't work

I switched out my standard switches for the charcoal grey aspire dimmer switches. The wiring has been double checked, and is correct. However, the lights will not turn on, let alone dim. The two switches were purchased roughly three weeks apart, so it is very unlikely that they are both defective. I'm wondering what the problem might be.

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Because the switches have electronics in them the ground wire may be very important to give it a full 120 volts to be able to run. Also double check your lighting, these dimmers are likely for incondescent lighting only (light bulbs). A compact fluorescent or some other lighting may blow the switches. If your lights are led they may not have sufficient resistance so that the dimmer knows that you have any lighting at all. Fluorescent lighting has to high a capacitive reactance and or inductive reactance. Halogen or other lights may cause troubles too. Check the directions on your switches to see if they were for incondescent only or for fluorescent only etc. Also modern bulbs don't seem to screw far enough into the sockets because of their fat necks that bottom too soon. You may have to turn off the power then put your finger inside to bend the bottom contact up enough to touch the bulbs.

Posted on Nov 21, 2013


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SOURCE: 3 way dimmer switch ace 6443v-k only dims in one direction.

At the switch you have a common ( either a hot or a wire going to lt). And two Travelers( Wires going from one switch to the other) Make sure your not mixing one of the travelers up with the Common easy mistake happens all the time. Travelers are always in the the same at the other end of the 3w switch , you may need to take it apart and look. If you need further help send me more details I hope this helped

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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Armacost dimmer doesn't work

You must have strayed from the original wiring that was there. To test remove the dimmer and cross the wires to make sure the light turns on. Look carefully on the front of the dimmer for the embossed instructions. Does it say incandescent only? If so did you use ordinary tungsten filament light bulbs? If you used compact fluorescent or led it can blow up your switch, or give it false readings so that it doesn't know that there is a bulb there. Double check that any bulbs you put in don't bottom too early from having a fat stubby neck making electrical contact impossible, if so take out the bulb, turn off the electricity and put your finger in the socket and bend the center contact up enough to make contact.

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All go out at once, first check fuses,then dimmer switch for dash lights, finally headlight switch. To check dimmer switch, pull connection off back, on harness with test light and headlight switch activated, 1 of the leads should have power, if so, use ohm meter on dimmer to make sure it has reading between 0 and some value, if no value, open, dimmer is bad, if there wasn't power then check headlight switch, there should be heavier gauge wire that powers switch and 1 for output to hi/lo switch, smaller gauge wires for tail lamps, dash lights, license plate lamps, parking lights. The color wires from dimmer would correspond to the same colored wires on headlamp switch, probe that connection on headlamp switch with switch engaged and see if you have power, if not replace switch, if so, check wire from switch to dimmer.Now if the lights slowly went from bright one day, to less bright some other day, to not working, then the bulbs are bad... good luck...

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How to you install a Leviton Slide Dimmer with Preset No. IPI06 to a double switch box where one switch controls the ligth fixture over the table(the one I want to connect the dimmer to) and the secon

Hi Velie,

I am an electrician and can help you wire this switch. If I understand correctly, you have a two-gang switch box in the wall. In it, you have two switches installed. One switch is a 3-way type, and is one of two (or more) switches used to control preparation area lighting. The other switch is a single pole type and controls a light over your kitchen table. Right?

If this is correct, remove the double switch wall plate. Let's set aside concerns with the 3-way switch. We have nothing to do to this switch so we will not need to remove it from the box, nor will we need to disconnect it. It works independently of the switch that controls the light over the table.

Remove the switch that operates the light over the table. If it is indeed a single pole switch, it will have just two terminals for wires to connect. It will probably also have indications for ON and OFF on the handle. If installed correctly, flipping the toggle up or pressing the top of the switch will turn the light on. If is a 3-way switch, it will have terminals for 3 wires to connect. One of the terminals will be a dark color from the other two. Additionally, no ON and OFF markings are on the switch handle and the light may turn on in either handle position (depending on the position of other switches controlling the light). With this information, I assume that you have now verified that it is in fact, a single pole switch. Right?

If all is going as expected, then we can continue. Shut off the power. Since a single pole switch has only two wires to connect, this should be fairly easy to do. One terminal should have a single wire that goes to the light over the table. The other terminal should have a wire that is powered all the time. It is very possible that the wire that connects to this terminal is ALSO is connected to the the 3-way switch either directly, or by a short length of wire that has a wirenut to connect several wires together. If you need to verify a connection to the 3-way switch, remove the switch from the box if needed (do NOT disconnect any wires). The wire should be connected to the dark colored terminal screw of the 3-way switch. This would indicate that this wire - and those connected by wire nut to it - is the source of constant power. Carefully fold the wires into the box and re-secure the 3-way switch if you pulled it from the box.

You new switch has a single RED wire and TWO black wires. Twist a wirenut cap on ONE of the black wires (it does not matter which). Remove the wire that was determined to be powered all the time (was also connected to the 3-way's dark colored terminal) from the old switch, and twist it around the dimmer switch's remaining BLACK wire with a wirenut. Disconnect the remaining wire from the old switch and twist it around the dimmer switch's RED wire with a wirenut. Add the dimmer switch's GREEN wire in to the bundle of uninsulated ground wires in the wirenut inside the box. Fold all the wires gently into the box and secure the dimmer to the box. Install the wall plate and turn on the power.

I hope this helped & good luck!

Feb 10, 2012 | Leviton MFG L00-IPI06-1LM DIMMER SLIDE...

1 Answer

How to replace dimmer switch

Hi Karen,

There are two types of dimmer switches - single pole (or S1) and three way (or S3). You can determine which type you have without even removing a screw. Here's how: How many switches can control the light fixture now? One or more than one? If you answered one, you need a single pole dimmer switch. If you answered 2 or more (it doesn't matter how many at this point), you need a three way dimmer. Ok, we're done with step one almost.. make sure that the one switch that controls the light has ON and OFF on the toggle handle. Likewise, none of the multi-switch arrangements that control a light should have ON or OFF on the toggle handle. None of the wide rocker or Decora style switches have ON or OFF on them.

Next, do the light switches that control the fixture only control an incandescent light? If the switch operates a light AND a fan - like a paddle fan fixture - you can't simply replace the switch with a dimmer. Dimmers are for use with a 120 volt incandescent lamps (tungsten, quartz, halogen, etc.). They are not designed to work on motors circuits - such as fans - nor are they designed to work for lights that have a "ballast" like neon or fluorescent types or a "transformer" like low voltage track lights, etc.. Check the bulb's voltage rating if unsure if a low voltage type or not. The only exception to the above that I am aware of would be for lamps that SPECIFICALLY state on the package that they can be used with a dimmer. You can find dimmable compact fluorescent lamps that will work, but as far as I know, there are no other types of lamps or motors for that matter that will work WITHOUT OVERHEATING or DANGER OF FIRE.
A retail package of dimmable CFLs.

That means, yes; if you install a dimmer on a motor, it will adjust the motor speed BUT, the motor WILL over heat and can easily start a fire. The same holds true for lamps that have a ballast. If it doesn't specifically state it is for use with a dimmer, don't try to use a dimmer to control it.

Check the wattage rating of the fixture. There is a sticker affixed to every fixture that indicates the maximum wattage of each lamp socket. Add these values together. Most fixtures are well under 600 watts. This 600 value is significant, as this is the base rating for dimmer switches. Nearly all unmarked dimmers are rated for 600W - but if you look closely, you should find this wattage rating along with the voltage rating on it somewhere. If your fixture is capable of more than 600W, you should select a dimmer that is rated to at least handle this wattage. The next higher wattage rating for most dimmers is 1000W, and costs about twice as much as the 600W dimmer. It only gets more expensive from here. Fortunately, not many residential applications need 1000W+ dimmers for the loads they will control. The need for 100W+ dimmers comes into play when there is a dimmer switch in the same box as the old switch. When converting a dimmer & switch to a dimmer and dimmer in the same box, the wattage rating is derated to disapate the heat created by the dimmers. Please, consult the chart below to see how to properly derate:

Ok, the preliminary work is complete. Shut off the power to the circuit. Remove the wall plate and remove the mounting screws that secure the switch from the switch box. Gently pull the switch out of the box. If it is a single pole switch, it will have two (2) terminals. If it has 3 or more terminals, (not counting the green ground screw) skip ahead to the three way section. If there are more than 2 wires connected to the switch (again, not counting the green ground screw), mark the wires so that you know which wire(s) go to which terminals. Use masking tape and a pen to write or colored tape to identify all wires that connect to the same terminal. Turn power back on. Test the all the wires for the presence of 120 volts. Once this is learned, shut the power off again. Test to make sure power is indeed off. Remove the wires from the switch terminal screws. Remove any bare or green ground wire from the green screw. The new dimmer should be connected so that the the "power" or "line" wire or terminal is connected to the wire(s) that you found to be powered in the previous step. If there was 2 or more powered wires that had the same identification or mark on them when testing - make sure all those wires get connected to this terminal of the dimmer. Connect the remaining wire(s) (that should also ALL have the same marking) to the remaining "load" or "light" wire or terminal of the dimmer. Make sure the wires that connect with a supplied wirenut have no exposed metal to short out. Check your work. Make sure none of the marked wires have been mixed with the other marked wires. Connect any bare or green ground wire to the green or bare wire of the dimmer or green screw on the dimmer. Gently fold the wires to the rear of the box or sides and insert the dimmer. Secure to the box with screws and install the wall plate. Turn on power and test.

If you have a multi-switch or three way installation, it's a little more complicated. Firstly, only ONE dimmer is used in the circuit. Installing more than one dimmer will prevent the light from being made brighter than the current brightness setting of lowest switch. If there are 3 or more switches that control the light, two are three way types; and are the only ones that can be changed to a dimmer. The third, and subsequent switches in multi-switch installations are "four way switches". Dimmers are not made to replace them. Three way switches have 3 terminal screws and four way switches have four screws (not counting the green ground terminal screw). This is the only way to determine one from the other. Start by shutting off the power. Go to the switch that you would like to replace with the dimmer. Remove the wall plate and switch mounting screws. Gently pull the switch out of the switch box. Count the number screws on the switch body (do not count any green ground screw). If it has 3 screws, it's a 3 way. If it has four, its a four way and can not be changed to a dimmer. If it has 4 screws, resecure the switch into the switch box and reinstall the wall plate. You will need to find a three way switch that controls this light. If none of the other locations is not desirable, you can not install the dimmer. Otherwise, remove any bare or green wire from the green ground screw. Next, locate the dark colored screw. This is called the "common" or "shunt" screw. Sometimes it is painted black; and other times it is gold when all the non-ground screws are silver colored. In any case, it will be the "odd colored" screw. Mark the wire(s) that connect to this screw with a number "1". Mark the wire under one of the other screws (it doesn't matter which) with a "2"; and mark the wire under the remaining screw with a "3". The wires that are connected to these terminals and marked as number 2 & 3 are called "traveler wires". Traveler wires run between switches and common (or shunt) wires that connected to the terminal with the same name and marked as number 1 does one of two things: it either comes from the power source or it supplies power to the light fixture. Make sure each wire that was connected to the 3 way switch has a number on it, then remove all the wires from the switch terminals. You will connect your traveler wires numbered 2 & 3 to the dimmer's traveler wires or terminals (it does not matter which wire is connected to which terminal; and the common or shunt wire numbered 1 to the dimmer's common or shunt wire or terminal. Many dimmers use black as the common or shunt and red & white for travelers. You'll need to consult the wiring information that comes with the dimmer to find out the colors used for common or shunt and the traveler wires on your switch. Check your work. Make sure no exposed wire can short when it is powered up, later. Carefully fold the wires into the switch box. Insert the dimmer into and secure to the switch box. Reinstall the wall plate and turn power on & test.

I hope this helps & good luck! Please rate my replay.

Dec 22, 2011 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer


A standard dimmer switch only needs two wires plus ground, just like a standard switch. If you are replacing a three-way switch with a dimmer, then you need a three-way dimmer switch (which has three wires). 4-way switches have 4 wires. Note, with 3-way or 4-way switches you have multiple switches controlling the same light, but only one of them can be a dimmer. good luck, Al K

Jan 19, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

I'm using a Cooper Master Dimmer with a Cooper toggle type 3 way switch circuit controlling one incandescent light fixture. My home is 30 years old and I've found many deviations from acceptable wiring...

The problem is most likely not the dimmer or the wiring, but rather the existing 3-way switch.

First of all, the Aspire smart dimmer does not work in conjunction with traditional, 3-way, on/off toggle switches. When the 3-way switch is in one-position, it lets the dimmer work, but in the other position, it cuts power to the entire lighting circuit - and the smart dimmer is NOT going to be able to override that. You instead need to get the corresponding remote dimmer (sometimes called a slave, or a companion dimmer), and use that to replace the standard 3-way switch.

That may also solve your "mystery turn-on" issue. Even though those dimmers can use the existing 3-way switch wiring, you have to REALLY pay attention to the instruction sheets to see how the master and the slave wire up to each individual electrical box. I vaguely remember that even if you were to use the product in a single-pole application, those two wires that, I assume, you attached to the traveller wires in the house needed to be shorted together in order to work - and since you have them running into a 3-way switch, the errors that you're seeing are bound to happen.

Long story short, get the slave dimmer, install it according to the instructions, and all these problems should go away.

Nov 09, 2010 | Cooper Wiring Devices Aspire Smart Dimmer...

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I have a double switch in my kitchen. One switch turns on the kitchen lights and the other turns on a light in a small utility room. I unscrewed the light switch from the wall because i was painting and...

This is a tough one. I believe you may have a 2 way switch for the kitchen lights. Here's a link to a site that has a good description of 2 way switches.

In a case like this, I would make sure the breaker is off and use a voltmeter to determine which wires are which. You can do this by testing the wires for voltage and turning the break on and off (I'm not sure how comfortable you are with working with electricity). You can also check for connectivity by seeing which wires run to the lights. Once you know which wires go where, you can then figure out how the wires should go. I would not want to hazard a guess based on the wire colors only. The voltmeter never lies. Hope this helps and good luck!

Mar 15, 2010 | APW Wyott C*Radiant, Lighted Double...

1 Answer

3 way dimmer switch ace 6443v-k only dims in one direction.

At the switch you have a common ( either a hot or a wire going to lt). And two Travelers( Wires going from one switch to the other) Make sure your not mixing one of the travelers up with the Common easy mistake happens all the time. Travelers are always in the the same at the other end of the 3w switch , you may need to take it apart and look. If you need further help send me more details I hope this helped

Dec 15, 2008 | Cooper Wiring Devices 6009W-K ROTARY...

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