While cooking dinner, I opened oven to turn meat and noticed inside light flicker a few times. I turned my burner up on high to get water to boil---nothing. The exhaust fan ran until the oven cooled down but the clock went out and nothing would work. Tried to rest the breaker-nothing. I tried the burner again and the range made a weird noise, the clock blinked but nothing. After about 12 hours, the burner was in the on position, same weird noise,clock blinked except when I hit the cancel button---clock worked. Tried to use the stove top to boil water but didn't make it to boil before it quit again. I give up! Please, any ideas????
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Re: Stove/oven gets hot then shuts off
Shut the breaker off!
These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire.
You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired.
Please write back and let know what you find.
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The circuit breaker outside in the power panel for the stove has a bad breaker. It will be two breakers with their handles joined together by a pin so if one tripe it takes the other so 220 V is no longer present. When one, but not the other trips you only have 110 V. That's why the lights and clock still work but no heating elements.
Unplug stove. There should be two screws under edge of the cook top. You need to open oven door to get at them. Remove screws, lift cook top up at the front and prop it up. There will be two or three screws with spring clips holding the burner to the cook top. Unplug the connections, remove screws, remove burner. Install in reverse. I did this at Christmas just in time for dinner. It takes about ten minutes.
Hi Jane, Ouch! Sorry about the Christmas dinner. I sounds as though the circuit breaker tripped. First, find the circuit breaker panel.
1 Check to see if a breaker has tripped. These breakers are double sided because stoves are 240 volt appliances, like the water heater or the house heater. There is a bar that connects two single breakers together. The breaker will be slightly off center to the other breakers if it is tripped. 2 If it HAS tripped DON'T TURN IT ON YET 3 Go back to the stove and plug it in. 4 Turn on a top burner(not the one that may have tripped the breaker) preferably one that you know works that you don't use very much. 5 Go back into the garage and turn on the breaker. 6 If it goes on OK go back to the kitchen. You have done the first diagnostic test. 7 Check the burner to see if it is getting hot. If it is, turn it to high and then turn on the burner that blew the breaker in the first place. See if it blows the breaker again. If it does not. Turn on all of the burners that you know work. You have now done several Diagnostic Steps that are important. 8 If one of the burners trips the breaker, you have one of the culprets. If not, GREAT. 9 Shut off all of the burners 10 DO NOT TURN ON THE OVEN 11 Open the oven door and look very carefully with a flashlight at the bottom bake heating element. Look at the the entire element. If it blew (similar to when a light bulb blows) you will find white powder around the hole in it or it will be completely broken, or have bubbles in it. Some indication like that. If so it has failed and must be replaced. 12 There is one other rare possibility, but it would not have blown the breaker. Many ovens have clock baking timers. These timers will, shut down the oven. If someone adjusted the timer and didn't turn the knobs in the exact right position. It will ruin the party shutting down the oven at the worst time. But it won't shut the stove top burners down. IF YOU HAVE FUSES INSTEAD OF BREAKERS If you have fuses instead of circuit breakers, Find several of the large cylinder shaped fuses to conduct the diagnostic tests I suggest. They are usually available at home depot. RARE PROBLEM One last but very rare occurence with breakers is their specifications sometimes change over a long period of time. If that is the case, they will trip and lower and lower overload levels. Simply Replace.
I take it the range is electric ignition because you say the top burners have a clicking(igniter) noise. If the top burners are electric ignition then the oven is also. The oven probably uses a hot surface igniter and that is why you do not hear any clicking. Turn the oven on and open the broiler compartment. You should see a bright glow from the hot surface igniter. If you do not see any glow there may be a grounding issue or the igniter could be bad. If you do see a glow but the burner does not come on in a few minutes then give the gas valve a tap with a wrench and see if the burner comes on. Shut it off and then back on several times. If the burner continues to light after this you may have fixed the problem. If it does not come on gas valve could be sticking or igniter is weak.
I suspect this may have been happening for quite some time and you may never have noticed it. MANY ovens vent near one of the stove eyes. If you lift the cooktop for 'servicing', I bet you see the little vent. It is usually in the back right underneath the cooking surface. Check to make sure it is not blocked, clogged or has rusted out/off.