Question about Refrigerators
Fridge is freezing items in salad drawer & bottom shelf
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Nov 08, 2009
You may have an issue with the temperature control assembly. Check the temperature settings (ideally at "one-half way" for both fresh food and freezer compartments).
Contact an appliance service company.
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
The crisper can freeze when air leaks around the base of the duct assembly. To prevent this, the air tower will need to be removed (see picture). Disconnect power to the unit first. All the shelves and drawers will need to be removed, to access the tower. With the air tower out, now run a bead of silicone on the floor where the tower sits. Now replace the duct on top of the sealant to make a tight seal and prevent the air leakage.
Posted on Sep 20, 2011
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