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Kenmore elite refrigerator freezer and fridge too cold

So the damper door and the control board have been replaced, yet the freezer side is around -10 degrees and the fridge side is about 20 degrees. Even though the controls are set at 4 and 40

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 4,654 Answers

Kenmore elite refrigerator freezer and fridge too  - 947f1e38-158a-4e1c-9e57-08343605a6a0.jpgKenmore uses a model number like this example=> 321.1234567 and can be found around the fresh food section door frame. I need that model number to see what parts may be causing the refrigerator to be too cold. Let me know and I will do my best to help solve this, Thanks Sea Breeze

e9790696-d45f-4dbe-8e2a-3fe59b98e715.jpg

Posted on May 03, 2013

  • 11 more comments 
  • Tony bence May 03, 2013

    My apologies. I thought that I had entered that. It's model number 106.54606300. The control board and the damper have also recently been replaced.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    OK Thanks for the model number. The fresh food section has a 2188819 Thermistor nand the freezer also has the same part number for the thermistor there. Hopefully the 2188819 thermister is the proble and is causing the compressor to run almost all of the time. The control board is where the thermistor attaches to to regulate freezer and fresh food section temperatures. http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/T...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    If the thermistors don't resolve this we need to move on to the 8201528 Temperature Control Board http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/T...

  • Tony bence May 04, 2013

    I shall try this next. As the control board has already been replaced. Thanks John.

  • Tony bence May 04, 2013

    Isn't there a way to run a diagnostics program through the control board? When we bought the house, there was not a tech sheet for the fridge.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 04, 2013

    handle... Yes I saw that even before my last answer but that is the direction I would go even with the new temperature control board. Here is a OHM Meter way to test the resistance of the thermistor at different temperatures...JT

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 04, 2013

    Hey I a sorry I did not mean to past that word

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 04, 2013

    I have no idea how that happened!

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 04, 2013

    I will try to get that removed if you want but I was chatting with a friend who's wife left him for another. I am having a bad day today!

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 04, 2013

    Yes but I need to match the Kenmore model number with a Whirlpool Service Manual. Here is a lot of how to test the thermistors but I am not sure the diagnostics will match with your model....JT https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 05, 2013

    Not sure if you were able to understand what I was saying. The first three numbers in the Kenmore model number tell me that your refrigerator was made by Whirlpool. I provided a link to another Whirlpool model refrigerator that does not match the Kenmore version that you have so the self diagnostics in that manual most likely will not have the correct instructions for the self diagnostics for your model. I do believe you can test the thermistors with the Temperature/OHM equivalence found on page 47 I believe is the page. Because you have already changed the temperature control board that should narrow the problem to the thermistors...JT

  • Tony bence May 10, 2013

    Thermistors have been changed. No change in symptoms. After reading several other posts, have decided to try fully shutting down the fridge over night and restarting.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 11, 2013

    Are you able to do the self diagnostics I posted here? It may spot what is happening here....JT

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite bottom freezer refridgerator

I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........

In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.

Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.

Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)

Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.

Posted on Nov 23, 2008

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: 16 month old GE Profile

see if the back wall inside of freezer have ice if so you have to change tiker board or check your doors if closing

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: my freezers works but my refrigerator

make sure all your fans are turning. maybe try to remove the knobs and see if you can turn them without the knobs, possibly they could be stripped.

Posted on Apr 22, 2009

  • 391 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer won't go below 10 and fridge goes between 40 and 60 degrees

Ensure the condenser is not clogged with dust or other debris.
Ensure the condenser fan (usually found in back) is turning when the fridge is running.

Posted on May 26, 2009

mgprice
  • 744 Answers

SOURCE: warm fridge cold freezer

Hi, With the information you supplied i'm going to assume there is an ice build up at the rear of the freezer. Your problem is going to be with your defrost system. I will also assume you have the ability to repair this yourself. This is going to be one of three problems with your refridgerator, 1st thing to do is remove shelfs and panel in the back of the freezer...you should see ice build up on the evaporator...don't worry get a hair dryer and melt the ice. Next locate the wires for the heater...using a multi meter test the heater for condinuity...if the heater is bad replace it, If the heater is good replace the defrost thermostat..the stat normally is a barrel looking part clipped onto the evaporator pipe. The last possible problem could be the evaporator fan, have you heard the fan running in the past few hours?..if you are not sure pull the panel out to where you can see fan and watch it over an hour to see if it turns. I have included links with pictures of what the parts you need to check are: http://romulusappliance.com/manufacturers/maytag/refrigerators/575432.JPG defrost stat http://www.hotekalliance.com/UploadFiles/2008627111553382.jpg heaters http://www.applianceblog.com/archives/EvapMotor1018185.jpg evap fan. Hope this helps. If you have any other questions please feel free to comment again. If you decide to get a repair guy in should not cost you any more then $120 - $200 depending on make/model/problem Good luck & thanks for using fixya! Mike p.s. please don't forget to rate this free solution.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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That is the dumbest answer I've ever heard from a technician.

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Somewhere (usually in the refrigerator section) there's another control that actually sets a damper, letting some cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator. Higher numbers equal lower temperature. Find that second control knob and turn it up by 1 or 2 numbers, let an hour or so pass and check your refrigerator temp. You want about 40 degrees in the fridge.

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if you go here you can see the damper,fan assy. that's in the top of your machine in the fresh food side
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Damper/WR49X10091/1055112
this is a damper with another fan in it,when the t-stat calls for cold air the damper door opens to let the cold air in from the freezer and the fan in it blows the cold air around inside the fridge,if the freezer is fine and the fridge side is warm most likely this is your problem,part number WR49X10091 and it's around 130 dollars.unplug the machine,remove the light cover on the ceiling,remove the 1/4 inch screws and drop the light assy.remove thhe filter cover on the right side so you can remove the damper assy.pop off the cover on the piece that runs up the back center,remove the screws to the damper,read the instructions and put it back together again.should take you around 45 to 60 minutes.hope this helps and good luck.

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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
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If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

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Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
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Look in the fridge for the plastic grill where air comes from the freezer into the fridge - probably down low on the partition wall. Aim a hair dryer, on a medium heat setting, into the grill for a minute or so and see if that helps. There's a fan in there, so don't go poking your fingers in unless you unplug the fridge first.

If this doesn't help, then you may have a failed component in the damper door assembly, or possibly a bad thermostat. Good luck with this, and I'm glad your power is back on!

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