Question about Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator

1 Answer

No power to icemaker

I probed the L and N holes on the unit and got no voltage..so where do I look to see why..I have plugged and unplug the wire harness a couple of times didn't help, the plug show no corrosion. I jumped the T and H holes just to be sure the motor won't turn it didn't. I wan to check the power coming out of the socket where the wire harness plugs in on the frig back wall but not sure which two plugs to plug the wires coming our a black, a tan a grn/yl and a white. So which two shoudl I shove the meter probes into to see if there is voltage at the plug?

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  • Maytag Master
  • 4,654 Answers

There is a bundle of wiring coming out of the ice maker and the black wire has a fuse in that bundle. If the fuse has blown it would indicate a defective ice maker motor or a short circuit somewhere inside of the ice maker. You can find a service manual, tech sheet and a Whirlpool Ice Maker Troubleshooting Service manual on this page=> Leaking Refrigerators I will be here should you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
The MFD2560HES uses a D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly
another source=> D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly

Posted on May 02, 2013

  • 10 more comments 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 02, 2013

    Here is that link again http://appliance911seabreeze.com/leaking...

  • ROGER GERSON May 02, 2013

    Thanks I'll check the fuse...but if it's good then what..I would like to check the incoming voltage at the end of the plug that plugs intot eh control modula but not sure which two to plug my meter into can youi help with that.?

  • ROGER GERSON May 03, 2013

    OK I have checked a few things and fouind out a big detail that was lefted out..first there is contunity in all the wires bundle along the side of the ice maker..so no blown fuse in the black wire. NOw for the big news..and why I had no power readings for voltage when I probed the l and N holes.. When teh freezer draw is open it shuts off all power to the icemaker!!! If you hold the switch thats works the light in power is there!!! So I have power to the ice maker and the motor turns and moves the dail and the fingers that should scoup out the ice cubes. But as it goes aroudn it doesn't stop and no water enters the tray. Note when this all started the tray did have ice in it..but it didn't eject into the box. So to summarize I have power tot eh motor and it turns, the fingers move andn the stop bar moves up and down once each revolution as the wheel rotates. So now what??? clogged value tot he ice maker..or could it be somethign else??? Stopping it from filling. Also I did mark the wheel on the face of the unit and did not move it manually so it should be in it's correct sequence. So again what now??

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    I believe the VT/WT wire that changes to black in the ice maker harness and the White wire. Look aqt the wiring diagram on page 8 of the Tech Sheet. Even if I tell you which to test Whirlpool does not always use the colors that you see in the diagram. The light switch may need to be pressed to avoid an interlock should the ice maker have a interlock to prevent it from coming on with the doors open. Most of the things you are asking for are on the Tech Sheet. If no power from any of the four outlets we will need to check the wiring harness all the way back to plug that goes into the wall. Another way to test these wires is to unplug and check continuity between the plug and the four receptical outlets for the ice maker harness with the harness disconnected from its outlet. http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/model.p...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    Try filling the ice maker with tap water. Allow the water to freeze and if the ice maker dumps the ice into the ice bin and then does not refill with water the problem will be cause by a defective 67005154 Water Control Valve on the ice maker side of the 67005154 Water Control Valvehttp://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/W...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    If the ice maker does not cycle once the water becomes ice it will indicate something wrong with the ice maker. Go to the page in the Whirlpool Ice Maker Trouble Shooting manual that talks about Icemaker Operational Cycle. If any of these events in that sequence of events fail it will prevent the ice maker from working all together and it will be cheaper to replace the ice maker than to buy individual parts to repair it. The ice maker tells the water control valve to open for about 7.5 seconds Read the Water Fill comment in the Icemaker Operational Cycle. Either way I believe you will find the problem because it appears you are digging in deep to find answers, Thanks for your comments! John Tripp

  • ROGER GERSON May 03, 2013

    That was my thouigth too..will try fillign the tray and see hwat happens.. By the way your site is excellent lots of good info there I highly recommecnd it to anyone looking for appliance how to fix info!!!

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 03, 2013

    Thanks for the comments. The website is not as organized as I would like. I have been using Adobe Dreamweaver CS5 for the last two years to build my sites. I am learning how to use Dreamweaver without much help so far, Thanks John Tripp

  • ROGER GERSON May 06, 2013

    OK I bought a new ice maker installed it had to use teh old sire bundle but I check each wire for continuity and the wires and fused wirer were good. I installed the ice maker and closed the draw but did not hear any water going into to the tray shoudl it??? Or doss the ice maker have to cycle once to let it tell the valve to fill or should I fill the tray manauly to start things off..does seem like I should have to do that...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 07, 2013

    Have you tested the dual water control valve? If the ice maker does not fill after dropping ice into the ice bin the problem is most likely the water control valve.

  • ROGER GERSON May 07, 2013

    It starter working..after about 30 minutes the water turned on and filled the tray and it's producing..ice now..THANKS!!

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp May 08, 2013

    Good and Thanks! John Tripp

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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freetek
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SOURCE: We tested the heating coil

> Our ohm has 200 with the beep, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2000k + up - do you consider 200k to be Rx1 ?
The range designations are 'full scale' and with the normal range ending at 1999 for inexpensive meters, the 2K range is the lowest or R X 1. The 200K range can measure up to 199,900 Ohms.
> When we test the continuity of the element the reading is 22.3 @ 200k - we're assuming this means the element is good?
Nope! The 22,300 Ohm reading is not right; the heater element should be reading ~ 100-200 Ohms and that would only be sensibly readable on the 2K range. The defrost heater probably supplies around a 100 to 200 watts of heating power and 22,300 Ohms would not allow enough current to flow at 120 VAC to produce that power.
The value you are reading would probably be off-scale if the insulating compound in the heater element wasn't damp. I hope you understand that the element must be disconnected at one end to measure it correctly? Otherwise you are simply measuring some leakage current from another assembly.
The thermostat action is somewhat dependent on cabinet temp. but if the unit has been off for hours, it should be trying to turn on the compressor at any setting beyond 'OFF.'
There may be two fans in your fridge; one of them to stir the air inside and another to blow the warm air from under the cabinet unless this unit still has exposed cooling coils in the back instead of underneath as most units are now. Neither of these fans should be running unless the unit is trying to cool.
In most units, the thermostat does not directly control the compressor and the fans, it is done instead by a relay located under the unit. The relay is controlled by the thermostat and handles the power duties.
A possible problem related to the defrost timer can cause your problem. When the defrost cycle is powering the heater, the compressor is turned off, otherwise the heater would have to be on too long or require higher heating power to melt the accumulated ice buildup. If the defrost timer has died during the defrost cycle, the compressor will never turn back on.
Often, the defrost timer is located toward the front of the unit underneath behind the grill. Some of them are equipped with a slotted shaft meant to turn the timer mechanism with a standard screwdriver in case it fails. If you plug in the AC again and can find that timer, turn it gingerly, normally clockwise, and see if you can get the compressor to turn on. If it does, then the defrost timer has failed and will need replacement. Many can be done from the front of the cabinet, obviously, only after the plug is pulled again.

Posted on Aug 23, 2009

SOURCE: ice maker does not work.

This is what I have discovered. When I removed the motor from the control module to test it, it rotated the gear about 30 degrees. I basically plugged it into the wall with jumpers I made from some 14 guage wire to do the test. Then when I put it all back together it started cycling and actually made some ice. However the next morning it failed again. I observed that the arm that flips the ice into the bucket was stopped in the exact same location as when it originally failed. At this point I decided to take apart the control module to look inside. Inside the module you will find a copper circuit that looks like a road map. If you take the gear off you will see circular copper tracks and four copper finger like points that ride on the circular tracks. I noticed that one of the fingers was a little lower that the rest and this caused no contact being made as the gear turned and reached a certain point in the rotation. That would explain why it failed the second time in the same spot and since I activated the motor 30 degrees it was past the spot where it would fail. Now the reason one of the fingers was a little lower was because the copper track had come apart from the board itself causing the dead spot.

Posted on Nov 07, 2007

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: maytag ice dispenser wiring diagram model MSD2456GEB

apc...appliance parts center has a good web site that might get you a wiring diagram. or your local appliance supply store might.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Frig Freezing Up/Frig side warming up Maytag MSD2454GRW

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't you can bypass the thermostat. if the heater then comes on replace the thermostat. It should be closed when cold and open when warm, testing with an ohm meter.


If the heater don't come on replace it.

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: maytag refrigerator no power to dispenser control board

I believe looking over the service manual that white is the common. and it should be the one to test the keyboard before the keyboard plugs into the control board. If you would like the service manual please let me know because it does show some test to eliminate the origin of the problem, Sea Breeze

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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Fault finding


Power is going to the motherboard, and you know this by assuming?

An assumption would be you see the Power Supply fan spin, LED lights light up, and maybe computer case fans spin.

Not an assumption, and you would have tested the 3 main voltage power rails, coming out of the Power Supply.

The Power Supply in your computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply. (Also is known as the short abbreviation - PSU. Power Supply Unit)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

The Power Supply in your computer is a Converter.
It converts HIGH AC voltage into 3 LOW DC voltages.

[Depending on country,
USA = 120 Volts AC. UK = 240 Volts AC. Japan is 100 Volts AC, but may depend on area. Australia = 240 Volts AC. India = 240 Volts AC. HOWEVER, do not write the above in stone. I may have made an error ]

The 3 low main DC Voltages coming out of the Power Supply is;
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

Orange wires carry 3.3 Volts DC
Red wires carry 5 Volts DC
Yellow wires carry 12 Volts DC
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. They can also be called Negative wires.
This is a DC circuit now. There is a Positive, and a Negative.
Orange, Red, and Yellow wires are power wires, and also Positive wires.

The first part of your diagnosis will be to test those 3 main voltage power rails.

[Digressing;
Using an example;
There are many Red wires coming out of the Power Supply.
These are 5 Volt wires. They are Connected TO, the 5 Volt power rail in the Power Supply.
ALL 5 Volt wires end in one place, in the Power Supply.
The 5 Volt power rail.
When you test just ONE red wire, you are testing the entire 5 Volt power rail coming from the Power Supply.

This also goes for the Orange wires, and Yellow wires ]

With the Red 5 Volt wires, and Yellow 12 Volt wires, you could just use a 4-pin Peripheral power cable to check them,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#peripheral

Multimeter set to DC Voltage, the red (Positive) probe lead of the multimeter; touches the female metal terminal connector, for the Red wire.

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9420&utm_medium=Affiliate&ref=cj&utm_campaign=CommissionJunction&utm_source=CommissionJunction?t=2&utm_expid=8634549-14

The black (Negative) probe lead of the multimeter, touches a female metal terminal connector, that goes to a Black wire.

You should be reading 5 Volts DC.

Same thing for the Yellow 12 Volt wire.

With an Orange 3.3 Volt wire, this changes.
A straightened out paperclip is inserted, down into the BACK of the ATX main power cable's connector; AND into a socket hole with an Orange wire in it.

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

The straightened out paperclip, slides down into the socket hole, with the Orange wire in it.
Slides down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO the orange insulation of the wire, and MUST go down far enough; to Touch that female metal terminal connector.

EVERY wire going down into the ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a female metal terminal connector.

Same thing is down with a socket hole that has a Black wire in it.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires. (Negative)
You can choose ANY socket hole that has a Black wire in it.

Now touch the two probe leads of the multimeter, to their respective straightened out paperclips.

Red (Positive) probe lead of multimeter, to straightened out paperclip in Orange wire socket hole.
Black (Negative) probe lead of multimeter, to straightened out paperclip in Back wire socket hole.

You should be reading 3.3 Volts DC.

(Or if your multimeter kit has special probe lead, that would take the place of a straightened out paperclip, of course use it instead)

Know this;
A) If ALL of the LED's ('lights') were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

B) EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts of power.

C) A typical CPU (Processor) can use 51 to 130 Watts of power.
Just depends on what Processor (CPU) it is.

This is why a Power Supply with a weak voltage power rail, will not have enough power to turn the Processor ON, but will have enough power to light those simpy LED's, and spin fans.

[LED - Light Emitting Diode ]

Regards,
joecoolvette

May 11, 2013 | Dell Computers & Internet

3 Answers

Ice Maker doesn't work, condenser fan was not running


It could be the the control board or a broken wire in the door.

But if you hear the timer motor running then you are getting power to the ice maker.

Have you check the temperature in the freezer?

The freezer must be 5 degrees or below for the ice maker to work.

Here is a link on how to test the ice maker.

Jul 20, 2008 | GE GBS22HCR Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Power failure of motherboard


"power failure of motherboard"

I'm lost. Since when does a motherboard produce power?

Power failure AT motherboard?

You have tested the 3 main voltage power rails, coming out of the Power Supply?
A) 3.3 Volts DC
B) 5 Volts DC
C) 12 Volts DC

[In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC ]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply#Wiring_diagrams

[ From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply ]

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2439#ov

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain24

ALL Orange wires are 3.3 Volts
ALL Red wires are 5 Volts
ALL Yellow wires are 12 Volts.
ALL are DC Voltage

ALL Black wires are Ground wires. Means Negative wires. ( - )
All power wires named above are Positive wires. ( + )

(This is a DC circuit)

Multimeter:
Positive (Red) probe lead to power wires, one at a time.
Negative ( Black) probe lead stays connected to ANY Black wire.

Looking at the Playtool link, observe the photo to the Right.
Shows 24-pin ATX main power cable plugged into motherboard.
This is what you want.

The Back of the connector is where the wires go in.
The Back of the connector, is where the straightened out paperclip goes in.

I straighten out a paperclip, and insert down into the socket hole; of the power wire to be tested.

(Orange, or Red, or Yellow)

Straightened out paperclip, slides RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wire.

Look at middle photo. See the Front of the connector? You can barely make out the ends, of the female metal terminal connectors.
This is a closer look,

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-9420&utm_medium=Affiliate&ref=cj&utm_campaign=CommissionJunction&utm_source=CommissionJunction

At the bottom of the photo is the Front; of the female metal terminal connector.

At the Top is the Back of the connector.
The straightened out paperclip, MUST slide down into the socket hole; far enough to touch the Back of the connector.

Now do the same for ANY Black wire.
Power Supply now plugged into power, you can now touch the multimeter's probe leads, to the straightened out paperclips.

Two paperclips used at one time.
Test each voltage power rail, one at a time.

When I state Voltage Power Rail;

3.3 Volt power rail.
ALL of those Orange wires end at one central point, in the Power Supply; the 3.3 Volt power rail.

This means you can test ANY Orange wire, and be testing the 3.3 Volt power rail.

Same goes for the 5 Volt power rail. (Red wires)
Same goes for the 12 Volt power rail. (Yellow wires)

What are the voltages? Post back in a Comment.

OR,
Use a KNOWN to be good, Compatible power supply; for a temporary test unit.

Power Supply checks out OK, or you are using a KNOWN to be good, Power Supply?

What do the Electrolytic Capacitors look like? See any bad ones?
(Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor)

http://capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/index.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lut7MX5Dd_A

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Mar 25, 2013 | Gigabyte GA-M61VME-S2 Motherboard

1 Answer

AC adapter power connection LED blinks but not charging


This suggests to me that you need to check out the AC adapter, and see if there is an intermittent short. In otherwords a break in the wires.

AC adapter unplugged from laptop, and power, remove the AC power cord from the body of the AC adapter.

Use a multimeter set to OHM's, (1K), and connect the Positive (Red) probe lead to one of the flat bladed prongs, in the power plug that plugs into the surge protector.

Touch the Negative (Black) probe lead to one of the holes in the plug, that goes into the AC adapter 'body'.
Keep going from hole to hole, until you get a reading.
Now have an assistant gently wiggle the power cable, and see if you get an intermittent reading.

Do the same for the other plug's flat bladed prong.
Intermittent reading means replace the power cable, or if more feasible, the entire AC adapter.

Power cable proves to be fine, move on.
Plug the power cable back into the AC adapter. Plug the AC adapter into power.
Using a multimeter set to DC Voltage, touch the Positive (Red) probe lead of the multimeter, to the center hole of the plug that goes into the laptop.
(If just a symbol, the DC Voltage symbol is a dotted line over a solid line)

The Negative (Black) probe lead, touches the outside cylindrical metal shell, of the plug.
Have an assistant gently wiggle the cable, and see if there is an intermittent reading on the multimeter.
(Reading should be 18.5 Volts DC)

[There are Analog multimeters which have a scale, and a needle, and Digital multimeters that just have a digital readout.
If using an Analog multimeter the needle will drop towards 0.
If using a Digital multimeter the readout will drop to smaller numbers, or 0 ]

AC adapter checks out? Go on.

The port on your laptop where the AC adapter plugs in, is the DC Power Jack.
AC adapter unplugged from laptop, Battery removed.
Take a pencil, and gently use the eraser end to see if you can wiggle, the center pin of the DC Power Jack.

ANY perceptible movement means a problem with the DC Power Jack.
The GOOD news is that the DC Power Jack, is NOT soldered directly to the motherboard.

It slides down in a Channel on the outside edge of the Base Enclosure, and has a wiring harness coming from it.
The end of the wiring harness has a plug, that plugs into the motherboard.

The HP part number for this DC Power Harness is HP 600630-001

A) http://www.dectrader.com/600630-001-New-HP-DC-input-power-socket-connector-With-cable.html#.UD0_w6B0k9Q

B) http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Compaq-600630-001-DC-Power-Input-Jack-Cable-CQ42-G42-Notebook-Series-/180932154005?_trksid=p4340.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D11%26meid%3D1653940420718665976%26pid%3D100011%26prg%3D1005%26rk%3D1%26

This is a link to a free Service Manual from HP Support,

http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c02627955.pdf

Page 73 is for the Power Connector Cable.

No damage to the DC Power Jack, and the harness is not slightly unplugged?
Now you have real problems.

You have a bad Power MOSFET,

A) MOSFET:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOSFET

B) Power MOSFET:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_MOSFET

C) http://mayohardware.blogspot.com/2010/04/important-parts-on-dv6000-and-dv9000.html

However it doesn't take a rocket scientist to replace. (Sorry Gort)
These SMD's use a J-lead contact. Simple unsoldering, and soldering.

(Better be fast though as you don't want to overheat a power transistor. Better be good, because you don't want any cold solder joints)

For additional questions please post in a Comment.
Regards,
joecoolvette

Aug 28, 2012 | HP Computers & Internet

1 Answer

I have a advent 7201.it will not come on on its own and it will not come on when the charger is plugged in.the green light is on on the charger but no power on the laptop.could it be the battery or th


Use a multimeter.

An economical unit can be purchased for as little as $8 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.
Analog or digital is fine.

The Red probe lead is the Positive lead. Plug it into the hole with the red circle, on the multimeter.

The Black probe lead is the Negative lead. Plug it into the hole circled with a black ring., on the multimeter.

The center knob is the Function knob.
Set it to DC Voltage.
If just a symbol is shown, set it to the dotted line over a solid line symbol.

If there is more than one DC Voltage scale, set it to the 0 - 50 Volt scale.

The plug of the AC adapter (Charger) that plugs into the laptop, has a center hole, and an outside cylindrical metal shell.

The center hole is Positive.
The outer cylindrical metal shell is Negative.

Positive probe lead to the center hole, then touch the Negative probe leads to the cylindrical metal shell.

You should be reading 19 Volts, or VERY close to it.

Also have an assistant gently wiggle this cable, while you are testing.
Have them wiggle the power cable TO AC adapter, also.

An intermittent reading indicates a broken wire, or wires. Discard AC adapter, obtain a good one.

http://www.thelaptoppowersupplyshop.co.uk/advent-7021

The port on the laptop that the AC adapter (Charger) plugs into, is the DC Power Jack.

AC adapter checks out it's on to the DC Power Jack.
Post in a Comment if you wish to go on with the diagnosis.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Apr 19, 2012 | Advent Computers & Internet

2 Answers

Pls help my computer shows no display


CPU fan runs, harddrive picks up, but no display.

1) Bad Power Supply
Or
2) Bad graphics chipset.

The two main factors for desktop computer failure, is a bad power supply, and/or the computer is dirty inside.

A) Bad Power Supply

Weak voltage power rail
Enough power to light LED lights, and perhaps spin fans, but not enough power to turn the Processor on.

IF all of the LED lights were on at once, they would use less than 1 Watt of power.

EACH fan uses 2 to 3 Watts

A typical Processor can use from 51 to 125 Watts.
Just depends on what Processor it is, as to what the maximum Wattage usage is.

CPU fan runs? Sure. It's only using 2 to 3 Watts.

Harddrive 'picks up'? You will hear the Spindle Motor spinning the Platters inside. Means nothing.

With no Processor running, BIOS can not hand the computer over to the Operating System. (WinXP is one example of an O/S)

There is nothing to find the Boot Record, on one of those Platters inside the harddrive.

(Explanation of physical construction of an average Harddrive,

http://computer.howstuffworks.com/hard-disk.htm )

You can check the Power Supply voltages out. See if there is a weak voltage power rail.

Power coming into the Power Supply is the dangerous voltage.
Power coming out of the Power Supply is not.

The Power Supply in your Personal Computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Switched-mode_power_supply

Your Power Supply converts the electricity from your home, or business, into three main voltages,

A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts

All are DC voltage. (The incoming electricity from your home or business, is AC voltage)
{In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries produce 3 Volts DC}

Use a multimeter to test the voltages. If you do not have access to one, an economical multimeter can be purchased for around $8 to $12. A multitude of stores carry them. An auto parts store is but one example.
Analog or digital, it doesn't matter. (I prefer Analog)

Set the Function Knob to DC voltage. (If just a symbol is used it is a dotted line over a solid line)

If there is more than one setting for DC Voltage, set it to the 0 to 50 Volts scale. (0-50)

The red probe lead is the Positive lead.
The black probe lead is the Negative lead.

The Positive probe lead touches the power wire
The Negative probe lead touches a Ground wire.

The 3.3 Volt power rail, the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail, are the power wires.
Test one at a time.

ALL Black wires are GROUND wires.

Test at the ATX main power cable's connector.
The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard. The Power Supply is plugged into power.

The ATX main power cable used for a Gigabyte GA-K8VM800M motherboard,
is a 20-pin ATX main power cable. This is an example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable,

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#atxmain20

Note the photo to the far right. The ATX main power cable is plugged into the motherboard.
Testing the voltages is done at the Back of the connector. Back of the ATX main power cable connector. The Back of the connector is where the wires go in.

The probe leads tips, will not fit down into the socket holes, next to the wires already present.
Suggest use an adapter. Suggested adapter is a paper clip.

The paper clip is straightened out, then inserted down into the socket hole, RIGHT NEXT TO THE WIRE that is already there.
The paper clip Must go down into the socket hole, to touch a metal terminal.

At the end of every wire going into the ATX main power cable connector, is a metal terminal. You have to go down past the insulation of the wire, and touch the metal terminal with the paper clip.

A) The Orange insulated wires are 3.3 Volts
B) The Red wires are 5 Volts
C) The Yellow wires are 12 Volts.

Example to test a 3.3 Volt power rail;

Power Supply unplugged from power insert a straightened out paper clip into a socket hole with an Orange wire. Leave it sticking up.

Now insert a straightened out paper clip, into ANY socket hole with a Black wire. (Ground)

Plug the Power Supply into power. Touch the red Positive probe lead of the multimeter, to the paper clip for the Orange wire. Hold it there.
Now touch the black Negative probe lead to the paper clip for the Ground wire.
(Black wire)

You should read VERY close to 3.3 Volts.

Same procedure for the 5 Volt power rail, and the 12 Volt power rail.

{Power Rail;
All 3.3 Volt (Orange wires), end at one central point in the Power Supply.
This central point is the 3.3 Volt power rail.
Same for the 5 Volt, and 12 Volt wires.

You can test any wire of that voltage, and be testing the entire power rail, for that voltage }

Power Supply checks out?
Graphics chipset.

Chp and Chipset are slang terms for I.C.
Integrated Circuit,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Integrated_Circuit

The graphics chipset is a GPU.
Graphics Processing Unit,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GPU

A GPU can be soldered directly to the motherboard, or to a removable card.

Soldered directly to the motherboard is Integrated Graphics.
Also known as OnBoard graphics. (ON the motherBOARD)

Soldered to a removable card is a Graphics Card.
(Full name is Graphics Adapter Card)

If you are using Integrated Graphics, try using a graphics card.
If the graphics card works, the problem is bad Integrated Graphics on the motherboard.
The graphics card bypasses using Integrated Graphics.

{The above is that you are seeing No Signal on the monitor.
If not check the monitor, AND the monitor cable to see if they are good. Test on a known to be good, working computer }

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Regards,
joecoolvette

Nov 05, 2011 | Gigabyte GA-K8VM800M Motherboard

1 Answer

I have a 2002 dodge caravan with a 3.3 in it. I have no power to the tcm unless i take the negative wire off battery then the hole plug has power what should I try


Hello! When you read the voltage to the TCM are you doing it with the TCM plug installed? If you are reading it with the plug off you are reading feedback voltage... Are you on on the Yellow wire on pin # 8?...Send a reading with main battery connected ...The plug in-place ...Use a safety pin and push the point into the Yellow wire on the rear of the connector...Set meter to read 12 volts...Clip the (+) probe to the safety pin and the (-) probe to bare metal chassis ground...Tell me what you read...Saailer

Oct 08, 2011 | 2002 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

My power acoustic per-007 is demanding more voltage than normal to operate. If I probe the power source to it with the connector unplugged I have battery voltage. Once I plug it in the voltage drops to 8...


Sounds like you need to run a heavier Gauge wire for power source. If power source wire is too small, you will get a voltage drop. Check your source wire gauge compared to connector on equalizer. You may end up having to run a heavier gauge direct to battery, with fuse link in line. See what the amp requirements are in manual, and make sure wire is heavier than minimal. Example: if 15 amp required, I'd go to 12 gauge minimum, or to be safe 10 gauge. (longer the run, heavier the wire.) Be sure all connections are good as well.

Apr 15, 2011 | Power Acoustik PEQ-007 7-Band Car...

2 Answers

When my computer starts the power light will blink and the fan starts. When the computer first had problems it froze and the fan turned on and wouldnt stop. I also smelt a burnt rubber smell. I read to...


Yes the voltmeter measures the voltage.
When you power up the computer to test the voltage on the 4 wire connectors.
Test the voltage red and balck wire should read 5 volts.
Test the voltage yellow an black wire should read 12 volts
If the burning smell is from the power supply then most likely a capacitor has blown in the switch mode power supply.
I would advise you purchase a new power supply, do not try and repair it, these mains devices can be dangerous if you don't have knowledge.

Sep 14, 2010 | HP Pavilion a705w PC Desktop

1 Answer

I have a Kenmore side by side. There is ice in the drain opening and the water is running out of the front of the freezer. Now my ice maker is no longer making ice.


The drain is frozen up 98 percent of the time its because the condensing coils are plugged with lint. This makes the unit run too long and freezes the defrost cycle's water too quickly. You can either poke a screwdriver in hole with hot water or unplug unit for a few days to dethaw ice. Some people tie a heat probe to element {bailing wire} and shove the wire down into the hole. Now this shouldnt have affected the icemaker. Get back to me if you need futher help

Jun 06, 2009 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

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