Question about Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator
I probed the L and N holes on the unit and got no voltage..so where do I look to see why..I have plugged and unplug the wire harness a couple of times didn't help, the plug show no corrosion. I jumped the T and H holes just to be sure the motor won't turn it didn't. I wan to check the power coming out of the socket where the wire harness plugs in on the frig back wall but not sure which two plugs to plug the wires coming our a black, a tan a grn/yl and a white. So which two shoudl I shove the meter probes into to see if there is voltage at the plug?
There is a bundle of wiring coming out of the ice maker and the black wire has a fuse in that bundle. If the fuse has blown it would indicate a defective ice maker motor or a short circuit somewhere inside of the ice maker. You can find a service manual, tech sheet and a Whirlpool Ice Maker Troubleshooting Service manual on this page=> Leaking Refrigerators I will be here should you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
The MFD2560HES uses a D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly
another source=> D7824706Q Ice Maker Assembly
Posted on May 02, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: We tested the heating coil
> Our ohm has 200 with the beep, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2000k + up - do you consider 200k to be Rx1 ?
The range designations are 'full scale' and with the normal range ending at 1999 for inexpensive meters, the 2K range is the lowest or R X 1. The 200K range can measure up to 199,900 Ohms.
> When we test the continuity of the element the reading is 22.3 @ 200k - we're assuming this means the element is good?
Nope! The 22,300 Ohm reading is not right; the heater element should be reading ~ 100-200 Ohms and that would only be sensibly readable on the 2K range. The defrost heater probably supplies around a 100 to 200 watts of heating power and 22,300 Ohms would not allow enough current to flow at 120 VAC to produce that power.
The value you are reading would probably be off-scale if the insulating compound in the heater element wasn't damp. I hope you understand that the element must be disconnected at one end to measure it correctly? Otherwise you are simply measuring some leakage current from another assembly.
The thermostat action is somewhat dependent on cabinet temp. but if the unit has been off for hours, it should be trying to turn on the compressor at any setting beyond 'OFF.'
There may be two fans in your fridge; one of them to stir the air inside and another to blow the warm air from under the cabinet unless this unit still has exposed cooling coils in the back instead of underneath as most units are now. Neither of these fans should be running unless the unit is trying to cool.
In most units, the thermostat does not directly control the compressor and the fans, it is done instead by a relay located under the unit. The relay is controlled by the thermostat and handles the power duties.
A possible problem related to the defrost timer can cause your problem. When the defrost cycle is powering the heater, the compressor is turned off, otherwise the heater would have to be on too long or require higher heating power to melt the accumulated ice buildup. If the defrost timer has died during the defrost cycle, the compressor will never turn back on.
Often, the defrost timer is located toward the front of the unit underneath behind the grill. Some of them are equipped with a slotted shaft meant to turn the timer mechanism with a standard screwdriver in case it fails. If you plug in the AC again and can find that timer, turn it gingerly, normally clockwise, and see if you can get the compressor to turn on. If it does, then the defrost timer has failed and will need replacement. Many can be done from the front of the cabinet, obviously, only after the plug is pulled again.
Posted on Aug 23, 2009
SOURCE: ice maker does not work.
This is what I have discovered. When I removed the motor from the control module to test it, it rotated the gear about 30 degrees. I basically plugged it into the wall with jumpers I made from some 14 guage wire to do the test. Then when I put it all back together it started cycling and actually made some ice. However the next morning it failed again. I observed that the arm that flips the ice into the bucket was stopped in the exact same location as when it originally failed. At this point I decided to take apart the control module to look inside. Inside the module you will find a copper circuit that looks like a road map. If you take the gear off you will see circular copper tracks and four copper finger like points that ride on the circular tracks. I noticed that one of the fingers was a little lower that the rest and this caused no contact being made as the gear turned and reached a certain point in the rotation. That would explain why it failed the second time in the same spot and since I activated the motor 30 degrees it was past the spot where it would fail. Now the reason one of the fingers was a little lower was because the copper track had come apart from the board itself causing the dead spot.
Posted on Nov 07, 2007
apc...appliance parts center has a good web site that might get you a wiring diagram. or your local appliance supply store might.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks
and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace
the timer. If it doesn't you can bypass the thermostat. if the heater then comes on replace the thermostat. It should be closed when cold and open when warm, testing with an ohm meter.
If the heater don't come on replace it.
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
I believe looking over the service manual that white is the common. and it should be the one to test the keyboard before the keyboard plugs into the control board. If you would like the service manual please let me know because it does show some test to eliminate the origin of the problem, Sea Breeze
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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