How do you connect GE's replacement part (WB27T10264) for the original WB27K5299 ?
This controller is on my GE double oven JKP27.
I was sent the substitute part .
There are schematics circulating the internet that do not match up with the new controller. They don't address the difference in the ribbon connector socket either. Has anyone been able to install this replacement part for the original WB27K5299 ? If so where did you place the ribbon cable and which socket positions did you leave open ? How did you resolve the differences in the other connections?
Thanks if anyone can help.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I successfully replaced my WB27T10063 with the WB27T10276 (ERC3-GE-M) by following the instructions (Pub. No. 31-10515).
"they tell you for the Broil Relay to connect L1A to the common terminal."
This is simply a misreading of the poorly written instructions.
Bake: yellow goes to yellow NO.
Broil: violet goes to violet NO.
Broil: black L1B goes to violet COM.
AUX 2 goes to AUX2 (black and white wire).
AUX1 goes to AUX1 (daisy-chained black from violet COM/L1B).
OV2 goes to OV2 (white wire).
OV1 goes to OV1 (brown wire).
L1A goes to L1A (daisy-chained black from AUX1).
N goes to N (daisy-chained white from OV2).
GND needs to be "tucked under the (steel) clock bracket" on the control panel.
The hardest part was disconnecting the wires from the old ERC. Took a LOT of force! I also had a hard time figuring out how to release the green tape thing apparently labeled "J1" on the old ERC. Piece of cake after that.
The F5 error code means that the control board has detecteda error within it self and theirfore the control(also called clock or EOC) needs to be replaced. The F5 error code can be cleared by pushing the cancel/off button and if it returns a short time later their is defiently a malfunction inside of the clock and it would need to be replaced.
Usually F1 error code means that either the touch pad or the oven control (also called clock or ERC) is defective and needs to be replaced. If this fault code cannot be cancelled, replace the oven control (also called clock or ERC), touch pad, or both.
Ya either have a stuck keypad or a bad oven control. To see what it is you push the clear/off pad, disconnect the ribbon from the control and wait 32 seconds, to see if the if the F-7 code occurs again, If it don't then bad keypad, if it does then bad control.
If the overlay isn't a protective foil that easily peals off, the hair dryer would only serve to distort it, I don't believe it will cause it to shrink to fit.
If it was applied with a 'self-stick' backing, you may be able to puncture the bubbles and press it back down with a hot rag.
F1 error and beeping. Don't bother getting GE out there. Cost me $90 to learn they don't make the clock. WOuld have been $500+ for the control panel anyway. Better off just buying a new one. Planned obsolescence I guess. I won't buy GE again.