Question about Coleman Mach 15 Air Conditioner
What is a compatible replacement for the 15K coleman a/c 48204A876? THE UNIT IS A FEW YEARS OLD, AND I AM LOOKING TO REPLACE IT WITH ANOTHER 15K COLEMAN A/C
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Did you plug upper unit (on roof) into lower control unit (inside). Not to insult you, because i've done it myself, in a rush situation. Breaker on? Sure you didn't mix up any wiring?
Posted on Aug 16, 2008
R = HOT 12V
W= WHT- GND
Y = YELLOW / POSSIBLE THERMOSTAT
G= GRND FOR THERMOSTAT
f = FAN
aSSUMING THIS IS A TWLVE VOLT SYTEM- The two f's Would be fan control intake and exhaust - fan direction
White is always ground and so is green.. green is more of a static ground where white is a load grnd.
Red is always hot. in low voltage
I hope this helped. No instructions in kit?
Posted on May 18, 2009
Turn the selector switch to “Cool” and the
thermostat to a low temperature (below room temperature).
The fan runs OK, but the unit does not cool. When the unit
housing is removed, we observe that the compressor does not
run; however, it periodically hums for 15 to 30 seconds.
Possible Causes- Check all of this before buying a new unit, that may not be the solution.
“The voltage could be low – ”
a) Check the voltage between #1 on the
overload switch and the “R” terminal of the
compressor while it is not humming. This
voltage must be 115 volts domestic USA
models or 240 volts export/overseas models.
No less than minus 10% is allowable.
b) Check the voltage from “C” or “R” of the
compressor while it is humming (trying to
start). The latter reading will probably be
lower, but it still must be 103.5 volts
minimum domestic USA or 216 volts
minimum export/overseas models.
If the first reading is above 103.5V domestic USA and
the second is under 103.5V domestic USA, there is
too much voltage drop in the lines - a situation which
must be corrected for the air conditioner to perform
safely and satisfactorily.
2. “A capacitor could be shorted, weak or open.”
Turn the power off.
Caution – There is always a chance that a capacitor is
holding a residual charge, so before touching a
terminal, discharge the capacitor as explained earlier
in this booklet.
Remove capacitors, visually examine them and test
them per instructions given in earlier section on
capacitor testing (See page 9).
If the capacitors test OK, replace them and carefully
reconnect the wires. Be sure the wires are connected
to the right terminals.
3. “Start relay contacts could be open – ” if so equipped.
Turn off all power, then check for continuity with
ohm meter between terminals 1 & 2.
4. “Compressor start winding could be open or
Check compressor windings per instructions. See the
section on the compressors (See page 8).
5. “Compressor could be mechanically stuck.”
This very rarely occurs and when it does, it is usually
after a lengthy shutdown. This should be considered
only after all the above possible causes have been
positively eliminated. To free a stuck compressor, use
your hermetic analyzer according to the
Posted on Jun 29, 2009
condenser fans typically 'pull' air (from around the unit) across the 'hot condenser coil' - and discharges it away from the unit.
Posted on May 06, 2010
If coils are clean, or have been cleaned recently, then check your discharge side of unit for restriction. It may require you to take down ceiling assy, to be sure that there is nothing blocking the duct work inlets, if it is a ducted system. Also if ducted system, make sure you don't have too many blocked/shut off. As well you should have a freeze probe, or round sensor in the coils at front where intake filter goes over, (evaporator) to sense the frost, and kick compressor out until it thaws. When was the last time the evaporator and condenser (rear) coils were cleaned?
Posted on May 16, 2010
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