Wiring no power to the hot water tank

Troubleshooting a Tank-Type Water Heater That Won't Start ...

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Whether your water heater runs on gas or electricity, it needs a controller to cycle theheat on and off, or the water in the tank would either be stone cold or ... If the buttongoes in and stays in, the thermostat should start working again. ... Screw in a new element, reconnect the wires, refill the tank and turn the power back on.

Troubleshooting Electric Water Heaters in MINUTES ~ Step ...

? 7:01
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlyStHM9Nr0
Oct 4, 2013 - Uploaded by electronicsNmore
AFTER you establish that there is power being supplied to thewater heater .... When the water is cold in the tank the top element will come on first, heating the ... is overly hot and then notice no hot water check the reset button.

Tanklets: Electric water heater problems

Maybe more than 1 problem: Suspects are: crossover, sediment or assorted gunk is built up in bottom of tank, or a loose wire or bad circuit breaker, or loose connection somewhere at water heater.
There is no off-peak setting unless you wire up the water heater differently or install a timer.

1) When water is cold, open TP valve at hot water heater to see if tank has hot water.
If tank has hot water, but it does not arrive at faucet, then suspect is crossover:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

2) To test if circuit breaker is problem, move wires to different circuit breaker with same amp rating:
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

3) Turn off power, open connection at top of heater and check that wire nuts are tight
Check all wire connections for signs of high heat and burning.

4) If bottom is filled with gunk, the lower part of heater can be slow to heat and will take so long that top part of heater will cool. Clean sediment out of tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

You have electric water heater.
You replaced elements and thermostats but heater still won't work.
And tank was completely full of water, and water was running out of a faucet before turning power ON.
If elements are not fully immersed in water, they will instantly burn out.
If upper element is burned out, then tank will have NO hot water.
If lower element is burned out, and upper element is not burned out, then tank will have some hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

If elements did not burn out, then that leaves 1 main suspect: the electricity.

1) Push in ECO red reset button on upper thermostat. If ECO is tripped out, then heater will not work.

2) Click circuit breaker all the way one direction and then back the other direction to make sure breaker is latched.

3) If tank has 2 elements, then it is 240volt.
If 1 leg of 240Volt circuit is not working, then 240V appliance will not work.
240Volt circuit needs both hot wires to complete the circuit:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-EH40-hot-water-heater-timer.html#120-240

Buy cheap multimeter from Home Center and set dial to 240-250-277VAC
Tape tester leads to woods sticks to keep hands away from power.
Power is ON
Test across top 2 screws on upper element should show 220-240 volts.
If you have 240 at top two screws, then skip down to step 6.
If no reading across top two screws, then move to top of tank.

4) Open connection point where wire connects to heater.
Test across both insulated wires should get reading of 220-240 volts.
If no reading, move to circuit breaker box.

5) Mark water heater breaker.
Turn off all breakers except water heater breaker and main breaker. (and breaker to light fixture where box is located)
Do not hold or touch or lean against anything metal.
Stand on dry boards and wear dry clothes.
If main breaker is OFF, the big wires that connect to main breaker are still HOT.

Remove box cover.
240Volt breaker has 2 wires connected with screws.
Test across both screws for 240Volt.
See if wires are loose.
If there is no reading, then breaker is not working on one leg.
To double check, move water heater wires to another same-size 240V breaker and then put ear against water heater to listen for bubbly-fizzing sound.

6) If you are getting 240 to water heater, then wire inside tank could be loose.
Do 30 minute troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer.

You have 240volt electric water heater
Check both elements for leaking.
Check top of tank for leaking pipes.

If water heater is leaking from side of tank, then tank is rusted out and could rupture.
This tank must be replaced.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-at-bottom-of-water-heater.html
My friend welded his tank to get more life out of tank, but he assumed the risk.

Hot water heaters are under pressure from heated water which expands.
If tank ruptures, water will flood out of tank and water will run until shut-off is turned OFF.
This causes major damage inside home.

Protect yourself first, and then let's talk more.
1) Turn off water at shut off located on cold water line above tank.
2) Turn off power to water heater:
Gas heater, rotate valve to 'pilot' so pilot is lit but burner does not turn ON.
Electric heater, turn off circuit breaker.
3) Open tub spout on hot side and let run a bit to relieve pressure.
4) Now your property is safe.

You can limp along with failed heater if leak is slow.
Turn heater ON when you need hot water.
Typical Gas heater makes 41 gallons hot water per hour.
Typical Electric heater makes 21 gallons hot water.
Shower uses 5-9 gallons hot water, bath uses 12-14 gallons hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Water-heater-reference-guide-2.jpg

If you are going to install heater yourself:
Look at label on side of old tank to identify size and particulars.
I buy ordinary heaters from Lowes and Home Depot and always buy scratch-n-dent models when possible, because superficial damage to outer tank does not lower lifespan of heaters I have installed.
Buy same size heater if it worked fine before.
Buy new flexible water connectors.
Set water heater in drip pan.
Offer 10% less than price shown. Make them deal with you. Shop Ace hardware, Lowes, Home Depot. Kick the tires since you have a bit of time.

I know you have electric heater, but many folks read these answers, so I include info on gas too.
#1 rule) tankless heaters are a rich-man's toy, because tankless will never pay you back, and will become major money pit if you encounter 1 repair. Electric tankless heaters require larger electric service box. Gas tankless require larger gas line (larger gas line, more gas consumption, bigger bill unless you cut consumption)
2) How to install gas heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-gas-water-heater.html
3) How to install electric heater:
Read link above because many of same steps apply to electric.
The difference with electric, is turn off power, disconnect wires, and reconnect wires exactly like before. Set electric heater directly on insulated surface like dense blue styrafoam. Cut styrafoam in circle so it fits inside dip pan. Wrap entire electric heater with insulation blanket, except don't cover TP valve.
4) Connect bare copper jumper wire between hot and cold pipes to prevent stray current corrosion which will shorten life of tank. Make sure cold water line is grounded.

Also read:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free assistance.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks to you via phone about any do-it-yourself problem.

First of all, you have 240V water heater because tank has two elements.
You have no hot water, and tank has power to upper element.
Lower element has no power.

Something doesn't sound right.
You're not testing correctly.

Before doing anything, test across top two screws of upper element for 240Volts.
This will eliminate electrical problem as suspect.
Breaker must deliver 120V on both legs to complete the 240V circuit.
Every single-phase household circuit takes 2 wires to complete the circuit.
With 120V you need 1 neutral wire and 1 hot wire to complete circuit.
With 240V you need 2 hot wires, one from each hot busbar, to complete circuit.
Your water heater can appear to have electricity if breaker is delivering power on one leg of the 240V circuit.
To check breaker for sure, move wires to another similar size breaker to see if water heater functions properly.
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

If 240V circuit is good, then next thing is take 30 minutes and do full test of water heater parts.
This will identify exact problem(s) without guessing.
Buy 5$ multimeter from Home Depot. Install battery.
When test calls for continuity, rotate dial to Ohms (upside down horseshoe is ohms).
When test calls for testing voltage, rotate dial to 240-250-277 VAC
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more help.

Lower element will always test 120V to ground since thermostats turn off one hot wire.

Listed below are suspects in order of ease.

1) Check that hot water is not running out of TP valve and down into a drain.
This will cause water heater to run all the time but not be able to keep up.

2) Test elements before replacing anything:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

3) Test electricity to water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Test-electricity-to-water-heater.html

4) Replace both thermostats.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Final thing would be full troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

If the lower heating element burns out the upper element will heat the top part of the tank then shutoff. homw depot/lowes etc should carry elements. 1 turn off breaker, remove element access cover (the 2 panels on the front of the heater) test for electricity at the reset button ( uppermost device in upper panel) to make sure power is off. 2 turn off water (I usually turn off the cold water main to stop water cross feeding into hot supply line back into heater) 3 disconnect the 2 wires on the lower element, test with continuity tester. shhould be no continuity between terminals and tank, but around 10 ohms between the 2 terminals. Check the thermostat for continuity if tank is cold thermostat should be closed ie zero ohms across the 2 terminals.
If stat is bad replace stat; disconnect wires push it up out of the spring clip insert new stat reconnect. If element is bad: drain tank. connect garden hose to tank drain valve, open tank drain valve turn water main on to clear rust sediment and get water flowing. Next remove filter screen from a hot water faucet then turn on ( a hot faucet upstairs or higher than tank drain). Now turn water main off, air will now go in through hot faucet and tank will drain, takes about an hour. Use a water heater element wrench about$10 to remove element(s) make sure no bits of rubber gasket are left in element opening- dig em out with a screwdriver if needed. Insert new element with its gasket and tighten. reconnect wires DO NOT TURN ON ELECTRICITY! BE SURE TO FILL WATER HEATER WITH WATER ! Turn water main back on -air will come out of the hot faucet for several minutes. When water runs without any air sputtering, turn off faucet and replace the faucet filter screen. check element(s) for leaks. turn breaker back on.

Your upper element is burnt out. open top cover, turn power of at breaker panel,drain hot water tank . remove black and red lead wires from the element use a socket to un thread the 3000watt 240 volt screw in element. re install the new element atach wires to element. Fill tank with water before turning on power or you will be replacing both elements very shortly

This faucet is the hot only version so it has two copper lines and one Santoprene rubber line. The copper line directly under the handle is the inlet from the wall - the second copper line attaches to the hot water tank by the corner. The Santoprene line attaches to the middle of the hot water tank. This faucet cannot be installed without the hot water tank.

thanks for your question, sounds to me like you have a burned out bottom element in the tank, depending on how old the tank is, the amount of calcium in the tank, will determine if you should repair or replace, if your tank is fairly new, then you will first have to shut the power off to the tank, turn the water off at the shut off, drain the tank, write down the model #, the serial #, what brand, and the ratings on the lower element too, go to the hardware store, buy a new element and element wrench, return home, write down which wire goes where on the element, very important ! remove wiring, remove element, that's the hard part most of the time, install the new element, rewire, close all panels, refill tank, do not turn the tank on before filling !! then after tank is full, turn power back on, you will have to wait about an hour for hot water, if the unit looks to old, then replace it. I would say anything over ten years is worth replacing, hope that helped ya, thanks again for your question, let us know what happens, mr.grzz