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Fan working halogen lights not

All 3 halogen lights on my hood won't work and all 5 green/yellow LEDs on the control panel are remaining on? Any idea what might be wrong? Thanks

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Broan Allure II

my range hood lights would only work on highest setting. nothing on low or medium setting. fan working fine. I tripped the breaker off then on again at the electrical panel and behold, everything works perfectly fine now. don't know why it worked but it did!

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

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SOURCE: New fan not working but lights work

There is less than 120v getting to the fan. Its possible that the lights will turn on etc. Take an extension cord and plug it in another plug and grab both power wires from the fan and stick them in other end of extension and I do service calls for broan & Nutone

Jean-Marc
try it out. Im sure your not getting 120v completelty.

Posted on May 14, 2008

shaggyrat
  • 1224 Answers

SOURCE: Zephyr typhoon AK2100 Kitchen Range Hood

its the relay inside that controls which speeds the hood works at this connects to the switch speed control

Posted on Jun 01, 2008

  • 171 Answers

SOURCE: WS3 Broan Allure Range Hood Premier 36 inch

Hi shealy,

I'm Harvey the Master Plumber.

Your problem is: This hood worked fine until a light bulb blew out. Put in a new light bulb, but the lights will not turn off. Is the light switch bad or is there a problem with the control panel? The fan still works fine but the lights will not turn off or adjust dim or bright.

You're on the right track. The light control switch needs replacing. You might try utilizing the Repair Directory to find a repairman. If you have the tools and ability just remember to turn off the electric first.

Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Thank you,
Harvey your Master Plumber

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Halogen Lights Failing

I had the same experiences with my lights. I placed a 50v bulb and it blew the fuses. The fusees located on the right side of the bottom duct cover. use 5a 125 v fuse GE part # wb27x10542 but you can find a cheaper fuse at Radio Shack. Good luck

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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1 Answer

What dose red or yellow blinking lights on my jazzy pride electric power chair mean /


  1. VR2/VSI DIAGNOSTIC FLASH CODES
# OF LEDS
CODE
CAUSE
POSSIBLE SOLUTION
One red LED
1
Low battery voltage
Charge batteries
Two red LEDs
2
Left motor open
Make sure left motor is plugged into controller.
Three red LEDs
3
Left motor wiring fault
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
Three red LEDs One yellow LED
4
Right motor open
Make sure right motor is plugged into controller.
Three red LEDs Two yellow LEDs
5
Right motor wiring fault
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
Three red LEDs Three yellow LEDs
6
Inhibit active
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
Three red LEDs Four yellow LEDs
7
Joystick error
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
Three red LEDs Four yellow LEDs One green LED
8
Controller error
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
Three red LEDs Four yellow LEDs Two green LEDs
9
Brake fault
Make sure both motors are plugged into controller.
Three red LEDs Four yellow LEDs Three green LEDs
10
High battery voltage
Contact your authorized Pride Provider.
What if the speed LEDs on the VR2/VSI begin to flash?

  • Determine if the battery charger is connected to the power base. When the battery charger is connected to the power base, a charger inhibit feature keeps the power chair from driving. This is indicated by the VR2/VSI speed
    LED(s) flashing.
  • Determine if the charger harness fuse has blown. A blown charger fuse can cause the charger inhibit to
    activate.
  • Determine if all controller connections are plugged into the power base properly. If the 3-pin charger
    inhibit connector is not plugged in properly, then the charger inhibit feature will activate.

Oct 05, 2017 | Pride Health & Beauty

1 Answer

12v Spotlights flicker


Conversion from halogen to LED lighting is not a simple plug-and-play process. The power supply is delivering more than 12v because the LEDs draw less current. The flicker could be evidence that the LEDs are gradually breaking down.

Dec 09, 2016 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

My Sirius Range Hood has two lights that take G4 Halogen bulbs. Is there a 115V bulb made for this application or is there something that converts the voltage to 12V?


These Halogen bulbs are inefficient, and run so hot that they often damage the reflector and bulb socket if they are left on too long. Fortunately there is an easy fix for this. At most stores that sell the exact replacement Halogen bulbs (Lowes, Home Depot and others) you will see a selection of LED bulbs on the same display rack that will fit into the same socket the Halogen bulbs use. It is IMPORTANT that you know the code number stamped on the base of your Halogen bulb AND its voltage because some Halogen bulbs are 12 volts and some are 110 volts. If you can't read the labeling on the bulb, look for the wiring diagram usually glued inside the range hood or look in your owner's manual. Once you know your Halogen bulb's code number, look at the packages that the LED replacements come in. There will be a list of Halogen bulb code numbers that the LEDs are meant to replace. The male sockets on these LED replacements will be shaped just like the sockets on your original Halogen bulbs so they will plug in easily. However, just like LEDs bulbs that replace the old incandescent bulbs in your table lamps or ceiling sockets, they have an electronic section included in there base to run the LEDs and it makes the LED bulb slightly longer than the much simpler Halogen bulb. For my stove hood it meant that the bulb would not quite fit into the reflector in the hood. I had to use a Dremel tool to remove a bit of the reflector to get a proper fit. The LED bulb is just as bright but runs SO much cooler and uses so much less electricity that now I can use the range hood as a night light in the kitchen. I never felt safe doing that with the two Halogen bulbs since they ran so hot that they were burning the fixture that held them in the stainless steel hood and were melting the wiring entering the socket base. This upgrade to your range hood is well worth the effort.

Nov 29, 2016 | Sirius Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

I have a 1999 Ford contour lx neither the brake lights nor the turn signals will work what would cause this


a fuse number 24,,,
The following specifications are for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique manufactured throughout 1995-2000.
Fuses Rating Color Circuit Engine bay fuse box 1 80 Black Power supply to main fuse box 2 60 Yellow Radiator fan 3 60 Yellow ABS 4 20 Yellow Daytime running lights 5 30 Light green Fog lamp 6 30 Light green Not used 7 30 Light green ABS 8 30 Light green Air pump 9 20 Light bue PCM module 10 20 Light bue Ignition switch 11 3 Violet PCM memory 12 15 Light bue Horn & hazard flasher 13 15 Light bue Oxygen sensor 14 15 Light bue Fuel pump 15 10 Red Right-hand low beam Passenger compartment fuse box 16 10 Red Left-hand low beam 17 10 Red Right-hand high beam 18 10 Red Left-hand high beam 19 7.5 Brown Heated door mirrors 20 10 Black Windshield wipers 21 30 Light green Electric windows 22 7.5 Brown ABS 23 15 Light bue Reverse lights 24 15 Light bue Brake lights 25 20 Yellow Door locks 26 20 Yellow Main light 27 15 Light bue Cigarette lighter 28 30 Light green Power seats 29 30 Light green Heated rear window 30 7.5 Brown Engine management 31 7.5 Brown Instrument pannel lights 32 7.5 Brown Radio 33 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (left) 34 7.5 Brown Interior lighting & clock 35 7.5 Brown Front and rear sidelights (right) 36 30 Light green Air bag 37 30 Light green Heated blower 38 Unused Relays Color Circuit Location Engine bay fuse box R1 Green Daytime running lights (Canada) R2 Black Radiator fan (high speed) R3 Blue AC cut-out R4 Brown AC clutch R5 Dark green Radiator fan (low speed) R6 Yellow Starter R7 Brown Horns R8 Brown Fuel pump R9 White Low beam headlights R10 White High beam headlights R11 Brown PCM power supply Passenger compartment fuse box R12 White Interior and courtesy lights R13 Yellow Heated rear window R14 Yellow Heated blower R15 Green Windshield wiper motor R16 Black Ignition R17 Unused R18 Black One touch window switch Driver's door R19 Blue Cruise control cut-off Central fuse box bracket R20 Unused R21 Unused R22 White Fog lights Interface module bracket R23 Black Turn signals Steering column R24 White Left-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R25 White Right-hand flasher Door lock module bracket R26 Unused Bulbs / Lights Wattage Type Low beam headlamp 55 9006 Halogen High beam headlamp 55 9005 Halogen Parking / Side light 5 2357A Wedge Front turn signal 21 2357A Bayonet Rear turn signal 21 1157 Bayonet Tail light 21 1157 Bayonet Stop light 21 1157 Bayonet High mount stop light 5 2723 Bayonet Fog/Driving light 55 893 Halogen License plate 5 6418 Festoon Reverse light 21 1156 Bayonet Front sidemarker 5 2357A Wedge Glove box Map light 5 64111 Wedge Dome light 10 6411 Feston Step/Courtesy light Trunk/Cargo area Engine compartment 10 89 Wedge Instrument-general Automatic trans indicator

Apr 15, 2015 | 1999 Ford Contour

1 Answer

WIRING A SINGLE PRESET DUAL DIMMER AND FAN SWITCH


Hi *****,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem. First - shut off the power. Check your wiring as I describe the connections below.

If this is the only switch operating the fan and light, it should be wired as a single pole in the direction sheet. That is as follows:

1) one black wire - it should be connected to the "hot" power source, 2) one green wire - it should be connected to the bare / green ground wires & switchbox (if metal), 3) one red wire - it should be connected to the fan hot wire, 4) one yellow wire - it should be connected to the light hot wire, the remaining wires (yellow with a "3 way label" and red with a "3 way label") should not be connected to anything and capped with a wirenut.

The wiring changes if you are using a second switch to operate either the fan or light (download & view the wiring diagram provided here to follow along with my text). In this case, the hot wire from the fan or light would connect to the black screw of a standard 3 way switch, and the remaining two terminal screws on the switch would connect to the red / red with 3 way label - or yellow / yellow with 3 way label pair. Power and ground wiring on the dimmer black and green are the same as the single pole wiring described above.
I hope this helps & good luck!

Jul 08, 2012 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

We have a SV168n-36 Spagna Vetro Range Hood and it works well but the lights are having problems now. They only come on intermittently and when they do come on once they heat up they shut back off.


I had the exact same problem with my Spagna Vetro hood. The fan worked fine, but the lights started working intermittently and then stopped working altogether. The problem in my case was a failed transformer, which sits between the power switch and the lights and is necessary to step-down the voltage from conventional 120v to 12v to support the halogen bulbs in the unit. Although there are several steps to resolving the problem (replacing the transformer), it's really not difficult. Here's what I did to solve the problem:

1) Shut off the circuit at the breaker (always very important :^) )
2) Removed the glass arch from the top of the hood. Four screws hold it in place and are accessed from above the unit.
3) Removed the access panel above the fan and light switches. This panel is visible underneath the glass arch, when the glass arch is removed. I slid the lower section of the decorative stainless chimney cover upward to gain complete access to the back two screws of this panel.
4) I unplugged the original transformer from the light on/off switch (connected with two yellow wires on my unit). Remove the wire-nuts and disconnect the 12v leads from black and white wires that connect the transformer to the halogen bulb fixtures.
5) Using a flat-head screwdriver, I pried the transformer off the metal surface to which it was adhered with double-stick tape. This was strongly adhered and took a bit of prying.
6) Found a replacement step-down electronic transformer at the hardware store. My hood takes only two 10 to 20 watt bulbs, so only a small transformer is required. The original one I removed was rated to 70 watts max. I replaced it with a transformer rated to 60 watts max. Either was more than sufficient to cover the 20 watt load produced by my two 10 watt bulbs. Cost of the replacement was about $15.
7) Connected the replacement transformer to the hood power switch. Here, I had to be a little careful to maintain the original polarity of the wires from the switch. This is because the original transformer, though it had one white and one black wire on its 120v side, was attached to the switch via two identical-looking yellow wires, using a non-standard plastic connector. The new transformer did not have one of these connectors on its 120v input wires (black and white), and I wanted to make sure that the I wired the replacement exactly as the original had been wired. Fortunately, the original plastic connector ensured a consistent polarity. When I looked at the end of the connector, one lead was square and one lead was round and noted that the square lead had been attached to the White wire on the original transformer. The replacement transformer also had a white and black wire for its 120v side. So, I marked the yellow wire from switch that attached to the white wire through the square lead. Then, I cut off the plastic connector from the yellow wires, stripped the sheathing from them about 1/4 inch, and attached the white wire from the new transformer to the previously marked yellow wire, using a small wire nut. I then connected the black wire from the transformer to the remaining yellow wire in the same way.
8) On the 12v side of the transformer, the wires are the same color and I did not pay close attention to polarity, simply connecting each to the spliced wires leading to the halogen bulbs (that I exposed when I removed the wire nuts from them in step 4, above) using fresh wire nuts.
9) The double-stick tape that attached the original transformer to the hood remained firmly attached to the metal surface of the hood and it was still very tacky on the surface that had been attached to the original transformer. So, after I tidied up the wires in the space, I positioned the new transformer over the tape and pressed it down firmly, which seemed to adhere the new transformer to the hood pretty well.
10) With the connections completed, and power restored to the circuit at the breaker, the lights worked fine, and the fan continued to work fine. I reversed the steps I used to expose the switch and transformer.

So that's all there was to it. The cost of parts was about $20 for the transformer and a bag of wire nuts. Investigating the problem probably took more time than the actual repair, which took about 20 minutes from start to finish.

Aug 03, 2011 | Euro-Kitchen SPAGNA VETRO 198D-36...

2 Answers

Can you supply me with the colour code for the wiring on the alarm/central locking unit under the dash on a 2002 vw golf ? i am fitting a remote start alarm and when i remotely lock the doors i need the vw...


This is what I have for the Golf 2001:

' ITEM ' WIRE COLOR 'POL' WIRE LOCATION '
' 12V 'red '+ 'ignition harness '
' STARTER 'red/gray '+ 'ignition harness '
' IGNITION 'black '+ 'ignition harness '
' ACCESSORY 'black/red '+ 'ignition harness '
' POWER LOCK 'yellow/blue '- 'drivers door module *1 '
' POWER UNLOCK 'green/red *2 '- 'drivers door module *1 '
' LOCK MOTOR 'purple/yellow ' 'drivers door module *1 '
' UNLOCK MOTOR 'blue/yellow ' 'drivers door module *1 '
' DISARM DEFEAT 'pur/yel or blu/yel ' 'passengers door module *3 '
' PARKING LIGHTS + 'gry/red & gry/blk ' 'drivers kick panel '
' HEADLIGHTS 'yellow/red '+ 'headlight switch '
' DOOR TRIGGER 'blue/gray *4 '- 'comfort module *5 '
' DOME SUPERVISION 'blue/gray '- 'comfort module *5 '
' TRUNK/HATCH PIN 'brn/blk or brn/blu '- 'hatch light '
' HOOD PIN 'brown/red '- 'comfort module *5 '
'TRNK/HTCH RELEASE 'brown/black '- 'comfort module *5 '
' FCTRY ALARM ARM 'arms w/ lock ' ' '
' FCTRY ALRM DISARM 'disarms w/ unlock ' ' '
' TACHOMETER 'green/stripe ' 'ignition coil '
' SPEED SENSE ' ' ' '
' BRAKE WIRE 'red/black '+ 'drivers kick panel '
' HORN TRIGGER 'black/yellow '+ 'comfort module *5 '
' WIPERS 'grn/yel and green '+ 'wiper motor

*1 The drivers door module is located in the drivers door.
*2 A double pulse will unlock all doors and disarm the factory alarm.
*3 The passengers door module is located in the passengers door.
*4 This wire will read the dome light delay. The avoid the dome light delay, use the separate door trigger wires and diode isolate each one. They are brown/white and are all located in their own door at their own door module.
*5 The comfort module is the main control module located under the drivers side of the dash.

Use this diagram for the door trigger isolation: motorsport.com/images/install_notes/149.jpg

Use DIAGRAM A.


Hope this helps.

May 22, 2011 | Volkswagen GTI Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Rangehood lights not working


I have a Fabyka Range Hood and know three other people who have had this exact problem (i.e both lights go out simulatneously but fan works fine). In my case I was able to pin it down to the transformer used by the halogen lights. This is an electronic transformer so it is less tolerant of power surges and such.

In the case of Fabyka the transformer is a black box connected to the inside of the hood with sticky tape with a black and white wire and two red wires. It is only used for the lights.

It is connected to the AC power via a black and white wire. you can disconnect this and us an LED power tester (about $2-$5 at most hardware stores) and see if you have power when you hit the switch.

In my case it is a 70W 120v to 12v halogen transformer. You can by a replacement off Amazon for about $12 including shipping or you can by a new one from Fabyka for about $30. I would suggest getting a slightly higher wattage transformer (I bought a 105watt for a dollar more).

You will need to disconnect the power before replacing but it is an easy fix.

1. Disconnect the AC power connector (black and white wires.)
2. The red wires coming out are the 12volt lines. If there is a connector, you can disconnect this, if not, you may need to cut these off.
3. Pull the tranformer off the back of the inside of the hood.
4. Cut the connectors off the old transformer. (Unless you buy Fabyka's.)
5. Connect them to the new transformer using wire connectors or crimps. (Make sure you connect black to black, white to white, and red to red.)
6. Make sure you have no exposed wires.
7. Connect to the corresponding connectors inside the hood. Connect the AC connector last.
8. Verify that the lights work properly.
9. Use sticky tape (or Gorilla tape) to attach the connector to the inside of the hood.
10. Enjoy the light.

Jul 17, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

3 Answers

Zephyr typhoon AK2100 Kitchen Range Hood


its the relay inside that controls which speeds the hood works at this connects to the switch speed control

Jun 01, 2008 | Zephyr Typhoon AK2100 Kitchen Hood

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