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MOTOR RUNS, BLADES TURN, BUT WON'T CHIP

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1704 Answers

SOURCE: My serger won't start. Motor is running but

Hi, On most of these newer machines they have a clutch that you engage to fill the bobins.
Please make sure that the clutch is disengaged for normal use. If this is all OK see that belt
is attached on motor.

Posted on Jun 05, 2011

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bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: the fan wouldn't start for

This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. Please see our If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor.

Posted on Jun 13, 2011

  • 603 Answers

SOURCE: I have white zero turn

This is a belt adjustment problem. You machines belt has either broken, or is loose to the point where it won't engage the blades at all, or has just slipped off the pulley. I believe the belts are on top of the deck covered by removable covers that are bolted to the deck. Check and see. GOOD LUCK.

Posted on Jun 17, 2011

  • 36 Answers

SOURCE: motor runs, brush won't turn, burning rubber smell

Easy to fix. The burning rubber smell is hair in the roller against the belt! Congrats, you have a healthy vacuum, you are lucky! Unplug the vacuum, remove the screws that cover the belt and roller brush. If you are nervous, take pictures with a cell phone or digital camera as you go for re-assembly. ok, pull the long roller out of it's slot and out of the vacuum. cut all hair off the roller and carefully move the belt from side to side to do the same. If the belt slips off, it slips back on easily. If the area is too tight for fingers guide it back on with any long thin wooden object. You can squeeze the belt to narrow it and slide it back over the thin metal rod that spins it from the motor. Slide the roller through the belt and back into it's slots. If it won't slide back on, turn it a quarter turn. Repeat till it does slide back into place. Put the face plate back on-tighten screws, flip it over, plug itr in and it should work!

Posted on Sep 05, 2011

  • 28 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 buick riviera heater blower won't run. I

you have a piece of solder broken off the controller of your hvac unit, causing power not to get to the blower motor it self. take test light and see if you have power at the blower motor. check and see if you have continuty or brake between the power wire at the blower motor and at the hvac control unit. if wires are good then the problem will lie in the hvac control unit. check and see if the blower is working at all speeds, if it works on some speeds thens the blower motor resistor.

Posted on Dec 13, 2011

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My blades are frozen they won't turn


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1 Answer

When I turn it on, the blade is slow to take off turning. Sometimes it just won't go at all, so I turn it off so as not to burn up the motor. Does it need cleaning, oiling, or something else?


If you don't have the original paperwork for maintenance for the ceiling fan this is what I would suggest: Cleaning and adding lubricant to the fan's main stem.

Put some lubricant on the fan stem: a drop of oil / graphite grease will do it.

First turn OFF the power, AT THE CIRCUIT BOX - BREAKER BOX.

SECOND Get a household or larger step-stool sized ladder 5 - 6 ft - set it up by your fan, clean the stem around the blade area, wipe gently with a Swiffer duster pad (those pink & white loopy-looking pads, they come in a kit in cleaning supply section of store -- with a slide-on plastic handle, & refills).

These REALLY do work to attract the majority of the static-oriented dust that is so common on electronics.

Then :

Clean and dust off all the blades, (if wood a drop or two, of a Murphy's oil soap will keep them looking nice).

So - clean them - add the Murphy's oil soap, using a small spoonful to 1/2 cup of warm water. Mix in an empty 'Cool Whip' (or similar sized container).

And place that on your small ladder on the ladder's shelf; for ease of use -- no pesky buckets to worry about getting knocked over -- (then start to clean using a rag made from an older smooth cotton sheet, or a really worn towel that has VERY little 'lint producing' potential, (the less junk you add to this cleaned fan the better) as to ANY lint on towel or cloth residues) -- wipe carefully, working slowly -- all the surfaces of the wood!

Top, bottom and those PESKY thin edges. That way you won't be fighting extra dirt in your eyes as you try to tackle the other problem! Dry off the blades with a clean cotton rag made from a sheet. Gently, no hard rubbing needed,

Ok, so NOW you are done with the fan blade cleaning, I bet it looks nice!

Add the oil: a drop of WD40, a household oil in a metal skinny can with a progressively graduated 'needle' like top (or a small dab (using a paintbrush dedicated to that use) of graphite grease -

Some hardware stores sell it in small tubes ... (or small containers like the size of sterno fuel jars) ...

You don't want any motor running without adequate lubrication, or they run 'hot'. Then they can start to cause trouble.

Add the graphite or WD40 to the stem, let it 'run' down the stem & add a 'little' more, but not too much as to 'flood' the area below where it is needed or 'flowing' to ... before you climb down the ladder and go to turn it on -- look to see if the oil has run the length of the rod, is allowing easy movement, as to turning of the blades.

Check it manually by pushing the blade in the direction the blades are set to go, by pressing the fan blades to move forward with a flick of your fingers. They should move easily without hesitation.

Look above and below the blade location as to connection of the blade on the fan rod or stem itself, to see if all oil needed is present; stem is not appearing overly 'dry', or too 'wet' either.

When that is done to your satisfaction, climb down from the ladder, turn on the fan, let it run for a while on the LOWEST speed setting, then check back like in perhaps an hour. AS to if it needs another oil addition.

If not I'd say start out on low always to turning it on, then change to medium speed or high only later.

You don't want to start off on the highest setting each time you use it. That is a likely way to burn out a motor.

If it is running 'smoothly' without 'wobbling' or smelling 'hot' as to an electric motor that is laboring, then you are in business!

Proper maintenance is 'always' welcome if you want your appliances & fans to last ...

Highlight these instructions in yellow sharpie - if you print a copy to use, as to steps that worked well. Then follow those every time from now on.

CLEANING THE FAN at least once or twice A YEAR for basic maintenance that will save you stress, money in the long term (it won't need replacing) and help keep you cool ...!

So ENJOY your fan and the coolness it delivers!

Aug 21, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

A string got caught in the blades and now it won't start up.


if the string was caught in the blades for some time the motor kept running and could not move the blades the motor just burnt up from the stress to the motor.

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1 Answer

10" table saw suddently has


It could be the particular wood you're cutting, you could have clogged the underside of the saw with dust and need to clean it, you could have your dust collection system running in reverse (heh heh that's a joke son), or it could be related to that particular blade. Different blades are designed for different purposes, and sometimes a rip blade, for example will be designed with gullets that quickly remove the material from the kerf so the blade won't pinch or bog down when ripping. These can tend to throw out more material that an all-purpose (50T) or cutoff blade. Some chip designs may throw more material than others, e.g. ATB versus triple chip, but I haven't noticed this.
Sometimes you will experience more dust when cutting MDF, say, instead of plywood or hardwood. Try a blade with more teeth, perhaps, or a slower feed rate, or equip your saw with a vacuum system to extract the cut dust from below.
Another item to check is the motor itself. Make sure a sliver or shim of wood hasn't fallen through the throat plate and impeded the flow of air to the motor. Make sure the motor is free of dust and can breathe.
In any case, I recommend you wear safety glasses and a dust mask of some sort, to protect yourself.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

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Searching for an owners manual for a 1995 Lincoln Town car Cartier series


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I have had some luck finding shop and owners manuals on ebay motors but they aren't cheap, but if they say they are original - most are. The shop manual for my 1996 Lincoln Mark VIII was $55 plus $15 shipping.

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The fan wouldn't start for the condenser unless I turned the blades with a stick so I replaced the start capacitor and it still won't start without turning the blades with a stick. It runs fine but...


This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. Please see our If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor.

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