I just replaced this fan, with the same type of fan, except this new one has a fan controller. I put the switch on high, to see how it would operate, and it's still spinning at the same speed as the old one. when i start my computer up, it recognizes my side fan as my cpu fan and says my cpu fan is too low, or fail. I just replaced my cpu fan too, so it has to be a false error, anybody know how i could fix this snail of a fan?
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It is almost always mounted in the radiator or next to the thermostat housing,do not mistake
Cooling Fan Switch Operation: The cooling fan switch on electric fans monitors coolant temperature signals from the engine control computer. When the engine is cool, the switch opens to keep the fan from spinning. When engine is warm, the switch closes to turn fan on for cooling.
How To Instructions: Inspect - Check for obvious problems. Test - Give it an in-depth diagnosis. Replace - Out with the old, in with the new. the coolant temp sensor for the fan switch.
Switch the relay with one of the other relays to make sure that this relay is good then go to the HVAC control programer which is behind the floor vent (middle). The Blk/gray wire is the one that supports the relay coming out of the HVAC programmer, but there is a chance that this programmer is bad. If that proves to be the case, I may even have one...let me know.
Volvo Radiator, Thermostat and Sensors
system's temperature controls include all coolant temperature sensors,
Volvo thermostat, Volvo radiator or expansion tank cap, cooling fan(s)
and fan clutch (if equipped). These cooling system parts function
primarily independent of the engine but control the engine either
through cooling or by sending control signals to your Volvo's
The Volvo thermostat is a spring-loaded
valve that opens and closes based on the temperature of the coolant
flowing through it. A high temperature reading followed by a drop to
normal temperature (or a continuously low temperature) is a common
first sign of a sticking Volvo thermostat. However, many other
conditions may cause these symptoms, so you need to know how to
eliminate each possibility.
The Volvo radiator or expansion
tank cap is also a spring-loaded valve reacting to system pressure. It
serves to maintain proper system coolant level at predetermined
pressures. It must always be replaced with an exact replacement cap
with the same pressure setting. Never use other caps except for
A belt-driven fan blade for pulling
air through the Volvo radiator is usually on the Volvo water pump
pulley and should have a fan clutch to control it. The fan clutch
allows the fan to turn with the belt at low engine speed and
"free-wheel" at higher speeds. A bad fan clutch either doesn't allow
the fan to spin at low speed (overheating in traffic) or doesn't allow
it to free-wheel at high speed (potential overheating on highway or
reduced gas mileage).
An electric fan can be either by
itself (usually front-wheel drive) or auxiliary (used with a mechanical
fan). Both types are controlled via a temperature sensor - in the Volvo
radiator or upper Volvo radiator hose or on the Volvo thermostat or
Volvo water pump housing. This sensor is usually an on/off type switch
with a fixed temperature setting. (Some vehicles may have 2-3 settings
for multi-speed fans.) This sensor is commonly called an "auxilliary
Other common temperature sensors are: 1) gauge
sender (variable output); 2) warning light sender (on/off type); 3)
lambda and/or fuel injection sensor(s) (variable to control fuel
injection settings); 4) thermo-time switch (cold start valve control).
Your Volvo may have other sensors as well.
control is critical to both performance and emission control.
Unfortunately, this system is the most difficult to troubleshoot
without proper equipment and diagrams. It's even more difficult with
computers that adjust timing, idle speed, vacuum and fuel delivery
automatically to make up for potentially faulty temperature sensor
Maintenance of your cooling system sensors is
virtually impossible since there's nothing really to "maintain".
Keeping them clean both internally (coolant replacement) and externally
(engine cleaning) is the best way to ensure trouble-free driving.
Checking and replacing all parts at the factory-recommended time or
mileage limits helps as well
hopefully you have a service warranty. I have had me fridge for two years and have replaced the temp control panel twice thus far. serviceman coming AGAIN on Tuesday because now everything in the fridge is freezing. cna't get the temperature in freezer and refrigerator regulated properly. GE knows they have a problem...something in the computer panel board sticks. I'd give anything to be able to put this on the curb and buy a new refrigerator.
That is an impressive wait. You must be an OR LP to have tolerated that battery manipulation; hopefully the surgeons aren't up nights over the 3 lost insulated forceps.... It sounds as though the system is dissatisfied with the CPU fan speed or another power/cooling interface component (CPU over 90 centigrade, chipset over 95 centigrade, the power supply fan running, etc.) and thus shutting down immediately to protect itself. Do all those things check out, particularly in the BIOS power/cooling section? How about fan and power connections on your videocard being right and jumpered accommodatingly?
That is, you could connect tach fans on any spare 3-4 pin headers and see if favor comes your way. The system will spin them slowly once it boots and you enable automatic CPU/fan control (and power savings) settings.
These fans can be rebuilt! Like many others, our fan died after being
placed in the center of the stove top. I took the two halves of the fan
body apart, and scraped the heat sink compound off either side of the
power plate. I then applied CPU heat sink compound that can be found at
any computer or electronics store liberally to either side, and put it
back together. The fan spins like new, spread the word!