Question about GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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Replaced mother board now damper clocsed

2cnd time this has happened.evap.motor wouldn`t run,replaced motherboard.evap.motor came back on. 1 day later damper stuck closed,just replaced damper thermister,to early to tell if this worked,will post later.any thoughts?

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Re: replaced mother board now damper clocsed

Rip, couple of checks to do: On the main board, connector J3. On the harness you should have 400 ohms on J3-1 (yellow) to J3-2 (red/black) and 400 ohms on J3-3 (white/brown) to J3-4 (blue yellow. Same values should be at the damper motor. If you don't have those values, damper motor defective. One other check, you have 10 seconds to do this on power up, so get some help. Plug in the refer. Check for 6 VDC. DC voltage now from pins J3-1 to J3-4. If you don't have this it's the board. If you do have this and the dampers not working, replace the damper. Catriver.

Posted on Aug 16, 2007

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Zis480mnc ge monogram built in refer temp varies from 34 to 48 several times a day.

Try replacing that evap thermistor. The diagnostics on thermistors can be wrong. If it is rounded on the end, replace it. There is a damper between the freezer and refrigerator. There may be a refrigerator fan motor in the damper assembly, It could be bad. It could be a bad control board. When you run diagnostics there is one function that checks all the fans.

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Sarct, the question is, was the freezer side ok, if it was, I would suspect the damper not opening. If the freezer side was warm too, then I would suspect the evaporator thermistor not sending the signal to the board to terminate the defrost. Have the tech first check the continuity at connector J3. He should have 400ohms at J3-1 to J3-2 and the same at J3-3 to j3-4. If he doesn't get those readings have him check at the damper motor itself. If he doesn't have it there, replace the damper motor. If the damper motor passes all the checks then it's on to the evaporator thermistor. Have him check the resistance. At 5 degrees it should ohm at approx 36K ohms. The evap thermostat is redundant to the defrost operation. It's there as a back up in the event the evap thermistor fails to terminate the defrost. It's normally closed and will open at 140 degrees.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like the sensor circuit in the motor is out or the motor is binding slightly so that the motherboard can't tell what the fan rpm is. Replace the motor and you should be ok. This is a common failure I have run in to.
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1 Answer

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Unplug the refrigerator and then plug back in. Using multimeter check between J3-1 and J3-4.
Must be done within 10 seconds of starting. You should have 6 VDC. If you do replace damper, if not replace motherboard.

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GE PROFILE PCF25PGSABB- Ice maker only makes water since the day we brought it home- Frig will not get colder 41 degrees.I have followed all instructions. Is the mainboard kit d/evap the Motherboard and...

Motherboards usually react to an outside problem like a defective fan or compressor start components failure. To replace the board without checking for a cause would be a very expensive mistake. You mentioned that this has happened beginning the day you brought the refrigerator home. Is this a warranty issue? I can help you find the problem but until the problem is fixed never replace the motherboard. A defective fan motor or defective compressor start components will take out a new mother board before you blink. Even so called service technicians miss this! They come to your home switch the board, get paid and bad board again.Let me know if you need my help, Thanks, Sea Breeze

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is you freezer freezing if yes is your evaporator motor in the frezeer running.
if yes then it might be you damper assy that is not opening but on GE'S most of the times that run call with that problem the evap motor is not running does your frige have a computer at the back if you do then you have to trouble soot that computer or call a tech or just repl that board and if it doesn't work just return it

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Did he check it out and make sure its bad... these ge models are tricky... sometimes they take out the mother board with a bad evap fan motor.. seems like it should still be his problem to help fix, if his repair didnt solve the problem

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1 Answer

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Matt, sounds like you have a main board problem here. The main board is on the back side of the refrigerator. If you are handy with a meter you can do some checks. Is the clicking relay coming from the main board? If it is, than it's more than likely your problem. First check the voltage from connector J7-9 (orange wire) to blue harness to the left, terminal marked line. This should have a steady 120V, no fluctuation. If you don't have this, replace the board. You want to make sure that the condensor fan motor and evap fan motor are not shorted. A shorted motor will take out the board. At the fan motors harness, with the power off, if you read less than 1K ohms between white to red or white to yellow it's bad. This is for both the evap and condensor fan motor. The part number for your board is. back.

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