Question about Pool & Spa
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: No Heat from Spa
Heater contactors "buzzing": Do you mean normal buzzing or extra loud buzzing? Loud buzzing or chattering can be caused by low voltage to a contactor. If normal sounds, then probably the relays on the contactors is working, but the contacts may be stuck, or burned enough so as not to make contact. First, get a voltmeter and check for 240 volts AC at the heater contactor terminals. If the voltage is low, most likely you need to check the contactors further. Check for dirty contacts, clean if needed. If the contacts are not moving when energized, then you will probably need to replace one or both of the contactors.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
SOURCE: Jaccuzi hot tub will not heat?
sounds like it maybe the heater again. Have you pulled it out and checked the ohms? it should be at least 10.5 ohms
it could be the thermostat or the pressure switch - if either of those are not working it will not heat either.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
I had this problem with ours last year. I replaced the water pressure switch and it began working fine. We later had a symptom that the blower would start but it would not ignite. The ignitor rod was corroded so I took it out and sanded it with some sandpaper---worked fine...until I dropped it trying to reinstall and it broke. Bought a new one and it works fine now.
Today's problem is related to the blower now.... it is always something, isn't it?!?
Posted on May 30, 2009
I had the same problem with my Paloma a year and a half after installation...contacted Rheem\Paloma\Richman customer service (800-432-8373) and they recommened a local installer in my area. The technican diagnosed the problem as the "flow control valve"; he managed to get Rheem/Paloma to cover the part under warranty...I only had to shell out the money for the install.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
Test across both terminals at the same time. If you are getting 230V, disconnect power and check the resistance across the terminals. For 4kW, you should get roughly 13 ohms. If not, the element is bad.
If you get 0 Volts across the terminals, the tub is not heating. ManyBalboa packs switch both leads to the same leg of power, so you can get 120V to ground from each terminal, but you get 0V from terminal to terminal.
The clincher here is that the "heater on" light is off. I would double-check the pressure switch. You should test it with the tub running in heat mode. Disconnect one of the flag terminal leads from the switch, THEN test for continuity across the terminals. If you get none, you have either low flow or a bad pressure switch. You can verify by jumping the two wires together and see if the "heat" light comes on. Again, check for flow. I would run any of these tests with the filter removed. The symptoms you describe are very commonly caused by a dirty filter causing low flow. Again, pressure switch test. A bad sensor would cause the "current temp" to read too high, and a hi-limit problem would cause the little "heater-on" light to flash. Unless that little light is just dead (I've never seen it go bad), everything you say points to the pressure switch (or a dirty filter).
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
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