Carbuertor and hoses

The drawing you provided on another post shows one of the two connections. It is the hose that goes to the canister in the lower right corner of the drawing. Most likely the other hose goes to the Power Brake Booster. It gets a direct vacuum source from the engine as well, and it is usually directly from the intake manifold. That is not depicted on this diagram.

fuel should never be coming out of the air filter. do you mean the pipe that goes from the engine to the air filter housing? if so thats the crankcase breather pipe and you shouldnt be getting fuel there either. if you have fuel coming out of the air filter housing then you carb is probably flooding and will need stripping and the needle vale and foat looking at

The first thing you need to do is make sure the pump is primed and able to draw water from the pool and return it with full flow to the pool. Now turn it off and make sure that your hose fits into the suction port and that the hose connects correctly to the vacuum head and the pool pole fits to the vacuum head. Next you need to disconnect the vacuum from the suction port and place the vacuum head with the hose and pole connected to it onto the bottom of the pool. Now force the hose straight down into the pool so it forces water into the hose and forces all the air out of the end that connects to the suction port. Keep forcing more and more hose into the pool until all the hose is filled with water. This is called "sinking the hose". The end of the hose can now be connect to the suction port. When the pump is turned on it should start pumping water from the hose into the pump and when flow is able to draw dirt as you move the vacuum across the bottom of the pool until it is clean. I hope this helps.

The first thing you need to do is make sure the pump is primed and able to draw water from the pool and return it with full flow to the pool. Now turn it off and make sure that your hose fits into the suction port and that the hose connects correctly to the vacuum head and the pool pole fits to the vacuum head. Next you need to disconnect the vacuum from the suction port and place the vacuum head with the hose and pole connected to it onto the bottom of the pool. Now force the hose straight down into the pool so it forces water into the hose and forces all the air out of the end that connects to the suction port. Keep forcing more and more hose into the pool until all the hose is filled with water. This is called "sinking the hose". The end of the hose can now be connected to the suction port. When the pump is turned on it should start pumping water from the hose into the pump and when flow is able to draw dirt as you move the vacuum across the bottom of the pool until it is clean. I hope this helps.

the green liquid that i am familar with is anti freeze, but i have not seen it around the carbuertors, unless a top radiator hose was leaking from the thermostat housing, and it got over to that area. is the battery charged up, make sure the battery connections are tight and clean, is the starter turning over or just clicking, if it is clicking, could be connections, or starter solenoid, or the starter itself.

https://s3.postimg.org/h5xf6su3n/pcv.jpg

Click on the link.
This should be vac lines for 4.2L engine.

The automatic clothes washing machine counts on a pressured water system - like what is provided in a town / city or from a well that has a pressure system to deliver water at pressure like when you open a valve for a bath tub, sink or shower.
You need to have a plumber provide valve/faucets for both hot and cold water. The valves are sometimes called a "hose bibb" with a threaded end that the hoses connect to and then are connected to the back of the washer. When the hoses are connected and the valves are open, the automatic washer will open a solenoid valve when the time is right to allow water to flow in, then closees. Some owners keep the hose bibb valves open forever after they connect the washer, others close the valves after they are done washing all loads for the day/week.
You will also need a drain provided that connects into the house plumbing. The Whirlpool Duet provides the drain hose from the washer which drops into the pipe the plumber provides. It is important that the drain pipe allow air to move past the washers drain hose, to allow proper draining.
Hope that helps. Please post back how things come out, OK?

You connect your blue hose to the low side (fat cool copper) The smaller lines is high side (hot side). Your yellow hose will connect to the jug.You want 70 PSI on the low side (no more 68.5psi is ideal) Your coils needs to be reasonably clean. If the compressor seems a bit loud you could clamp on an ammeter and check the amp draw. In fact you could charge the unit using an ammeter. Check the plate for total amp draw and reach for it. More sophisticated methods for checking sub-cooling and superheat are explained HERE
A cool from Professor Zarkalicousness:




If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Typical Fuel System (Primer Bulb and fuel lines may not apply)
http://www.img4free.com/thumbs/Lou98321/fuelsystem.jpg
Fuel Line Replacement by SmallEng.com
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrXpU70Hmi0

• The hose in the tank with the filter on the free end connects directly to the carburetor input connection.
• If the saw is equipped with a primer bulb, an output line from the carburetor connects to the suction side of the primer (once the bulb is collapsed it draws fuel from the tank through the carburetor to refill as it inflates).
• The pressure side of the primer returns displaced fuel to the tank as it is depressed.

Take lots of notes and a few digital photographs to help with reassembly.

The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for fuel line routing and it is sketchy at best; components are listed but on multiple illustrations.
Poulan.com
http://www.ordertree.com/modelinfo/POULAN-WEED-EATER/75.59.html
The dash number of your serial number is the type. HTH
Lou