Question about Briggs & Stratton Power Products 5,550 Watt Portable Generator #30241

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How to adjust generator voltage? Currently it is 150 V line-gnd.

Model 030424. I suspect it is the engine idle. Can't find any documentation on where the adjustment screw is and how to adjust it.

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  • 16 Answers

Go to B&S web site or peach tree.com with your engine number you can look up picture of the engine an fine where to adjust it

Posted on Dec 12, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

caroldon
  • 17129 Answers

SOURCE: I need to adjust the

It is always good to have the voltage set down by a small percentage and so the setting you have is quite good because most devices work happily with a lesser voltage than a higher one except those consuming higher currrent.
Now if you set the generator for the higher rating with the connected load and when the device is not used the voltage will rise above and may damage sensitive equipments. So take this tip.

Posted on Sep 25, 2010

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Briggs and Stratton 5500 watt Generator

Hello, I would not advise you to adjust the speed without a frequency meter. for 220 volt operation, you will have to use the twist - lock receptacles and not use the neutral in the receptacle. This means one of the generator's hot leads is going to be the neutral in your system. The frame of the generator may be connected to the neutral of the generator, so be careful so that you do not receive an electrical shock. The voltage is adjusted within the receptacle box. There might be a small hole on the right side of the receptacle box that you can insert a small blade screwdriver into to make the voltage adjustment. You do not need to change this much to change the voltage. Now, the frequency is adjusted by a self-locking nut located under the air cleaner right side, when facing the engine. There is a spring on this nut / bolt assembly. I think it is a 5/16 nutdriver or socket that you need for this. Turn counter clockwise 1/8 of a turn. This will slow down the generator to about 50 - 55 hz. This is okay if you are running at around 52 hz. As the generator loads, the rpm will drop down. A frequency meter would be great to use here, as a too low rpm could burn out electrical motors and other equipment that you are using. Feel free to contact me joeleier@gmail.com www.freelancemissions.com

Posted on Jan 22, 2011

Testimonial: "Thank you for the quick response. Great advice and outstanding instructions."

  • 1383 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Briggs &

Depending on the engine, you will find an arm attached to a small shaft coming out of the engine block. This governor arm is where there is attached a governor spring and the linkage going to the carb. The governor spring is attached to the arm on one end and to either a bolt or a tab of metal on the other end. If attached to a bolt, you will find a lock nut and enables you to increase tension on the spring (pull harder) thus increasing engine speed. If you have a metal tab, by bending the tab away from the spring, you will be applying more tension. You will not be bending carb linkage. Before you make any changes, find a meter that can measure Hz . Plug the meter into house plug and notice that hz reading will be 60 cycles. Then read voltage at house plug, could be 115 thru 120 or higher. Your generator produces 60 cycles when it turns 3600 rpm. Before you make any adjustments, plug meter into outlet and check hz. If reading is at 60hz, the engine is already running at max indicating problem with actual generator parts and not engine running slow. If cycles low, adjust by bending tab pulling harder on the gov. spring, or adjust screw to pull on he spring. In either case, adjust a little and re-test. With engine running to produce 60 cycles, the voltage should be between 115 thru 120. Some generators have an adjustment screw to increase voltage on the voltage regulator inside the gen set. Look for Good luck

Posted on Sep 01, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: frequency adjustment or solution

Can you check the RPM of the engine? 3600 RPM = 60 HZ. If it is running around that speed, try a different frequency meter.

If it was producing 180 HZ, it should automatically shut down and show a fault code!

Posted on Dec 16, 2011

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Hi, Mithun the following applies to carbureted also fuel injected models and the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, should have 12.5 volts or better and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.
3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.
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7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.
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The throttle control is likely a choke function for starting. These generators are designed for only one running speed to produce the necessary 60 cycles per second and voltage.
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1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.

2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.

3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.

4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.

5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.

6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.

7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.

8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.

9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.

10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.

11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.

12. Fuel tank empty.

13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.

14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.

15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.

16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.

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1. Severely discharged or a damaged battery, 9 volts or lower.

2. Failed alternator/generator and or voltage regulator.

3. Loose or corroded battery terminals and or cables especially the "NEGATIVE" cable, look for loose, corroded, or broken connectors inside the cable harness at "BOTH" ends.

4. Failed main circuit breaker or ignition switch, check for loose connections and continuity.

5. Failed system and or ignition relay, check for continuity.

6. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.

7. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor, corroded, loose or broken wire connector pins/sockets.

8. Throttle cables and or idle speed improperly adjusted hot idle speed should be 950 RPM to 1000 RPM.

9. Air/fuel mixture screw improperly adjusted.

10. Water or dirt in the fuel system, carburetor or filter.

11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.

12. Fuel tank empty.

13. Gas cap is not venting properly or fuel tank venting system blocked.

14. A failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.

15. Vacuum line from intake manifold to petcock broken, cracked, or not attached, carburetor vent line plugged.

16. Needle and seat stuck closed in the float bowl.

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