Question about Kenmore Refrigerators

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13 volts coming into condenser fan and compressor, why?

I think it may be the temperature control thermostat, i hear a buzzing coming from the top of the fridge and i measured only 13 volts coming from the thermostat to the condenser fan motor and compressor

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  • Kenmore Master
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13 volts coming into condenser fan and compressor, - b9182e2a-157f-48cf-8eb0-0de1603fcb75.jpg44e9149e-2d2d-43bf-92b8-e7635dce1fe2.jpgKenmore has a model number like this example=> 321.123456 Can you look around the door frame for your model number? Not providing a model number makes it almost impossible for a technician to help answer your question. Thanks Sea Breeze

Posted on May 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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imufo2
  • 3773 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE Profile

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned warmer which makes REF. colder or vice versa.
Also this might be a common Defrost problem, Ice
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

Posted on Aug 02, 2011

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1 Answer

I have no cold air in my refrigerator or Freezer. It defrosted everything.


Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jun 28, 2017 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Compressor want come on


Here is what to do . Pull out or turn off Electrical disconnect behind unit . Carefully remove panel covering controls in unit . Note most units have a flat panel with a few screws, but some GE units have a welded metal box on top of unit which needs to be removed. After exposing controls. replace or turn on disconnect. Then take a plastic handled screwdriver and push in on center of contactor (boxlike part with a lot of wires hooked ) If the compressor now comes on release contactor , and check for 24 Volts AC at base of contactor where thermostat (small wires that run on outside of black refrigerant line ) with thermostat on and calling for cool you should measure 24 to 28 volts . If voltage is present replace contactor after disconnecting from power. If no voltage go inside , remove cover from thermostat, and check for 24 volts between red ( R) and yellow (Y ) terminals on thermostat , If voltage is present , replace thermostat , no voltage check voltage in heater / air handler if you have voltage at air handler , replace thermostat wire from heater to thermostat / if no voltage check for blown fuse in heater , this should be either an inline fuse or an automotive type fuse plugged into circuit board (with power to heater disconnected check broken wire or black mark in fuse when held up to light. If fuse good turn on power to heater and check for 230v to one side of transformer, if you get voltage to Primary (incoming side ) of transformer, check output side of transformer for 24 - 28 volts. If transformer shows input but no output replace transformer after turning power off. If you heard a buzzing or grinding noise , when pushing in contactor , but compressor didn't start look at run capacitor (this is round or oval shaped object with wires going to contactor and compressor ) Looking at area where wires plug this should be a flat surface , if it looks domed shaped or bulging out , it is blown and needs replaced , use same mfd rating and 440 Volts to be on safe side. / If there was no noise from compressor when contactor was pushed in , put your hand on top of compressor (black object in center of unit ) If hot , allow to cool for at least three hours with power to unit turned off and retest . If compressor comes on after cooling , check for bad fan motor in outside unit (it may make a squealing or wining noise and stop runing for a while , also check for / clean outdoor coils
Hope this helps .
Thanks,
Alex


Oct 04, 2014 | Carrier Comfort 3.0 Ton 13 Seer Ac Only...

1 Answer

Rheem air conditioner fan comes on ,goes off ,comes on but not all of the time reaches room temp then goes off


If your description is in a few minutes, It sounds like a loose wire. If it is the outside fan motor to which you were referring, it should have 3 wires. Find those 3 wires and trace them back to the control board and main contactor. check the condition of any connections and the condition of the insulation. Next, If it is the blower motor, do the same thing.
It also sounds like it could be the control wiring. The blower control wire is the green wire coming from the thermostat and going to the fan control board in the air handler. If you have a loose connnection in the thermostat and/or loose connnection for some splice in that wire, it could interrupt the control power to the blower motor and cause it to cycle.
If it is the condensing fan on the condensing unit, it is the yellow wire. Check the same criteria as green wire above.

As far as the last of your inquiry, the air conditioner reaches temperature then turns off is normal and is not part of the problem your having.
The only other thing I can think of without more information, If the condensing unit comes on and shortly later turns off, the question is whether the condensing fan comes on when the compressor turns on. I had a case today, both the outdoor fan and compressor would not run, but the main contactor was pulled in, and voltage was available. It turns out the dual capacitor was bad and the condensing fan had stopped running and the compressor was cycling on the inherent motor protection inside the compressor. Inside the compressor is a bimetallic overtemperature switch that helps protect the compressor from getting to hot. This is your probable cause and can be determined by checking the temperature of the condensing fan motor and the temperature of the compressor. If both are so hot your hand gets burned, you probably need an new capacitor and outdoor fan motor. If the compressor cools by turning it off, the inherent motor protection will reset if it has not burned out. If after deenergizing the compressor cool off and will not reset, the compressor will have to be changed.


Hope this helps.

Jun 25, 2014 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Why won't the compressor run


This can be for a variety of reasons. It ranges from something as simple as no supply power (blown fuse, open breaker, faulty contactor, or run capacitor) or it could be more serious as a grounded or open winding in the compressor motor. My suggestion to any novice and or person without proper tools and knowledge; First check the low voltage (24 volt control voltage) by turning on the "Fan on" switch located on the thermostat to on, not "Auto" The blower fan should come on, indicating there's 120 volt and 24 volt available. Fan doesn't come on is an indication that there's no control power. The next step would be to check for power at the transformer and fuse located in the air handler. There should be 240 volts feeding the transformer, and 24 volts coming out. The control voltage is needed to operate the thermostat (which is the switch that sends the 24 volt signal to the compressor contactor to turn the compressor on/off. This 24 volt also powers other relays and switches in the system. knowing that 24 volt is available also tells you that the problem is most likely in the condensing unit (outside, where the compressor is located). At the condensing unit you should check for 240 volt supply power. Upon finding 240 volt supply power the question now becomes whether or not the thermostat is calling for anything (cool or heat if the unit is a heat pump). There should be 24-30 volt available at the small gauge wires feeding the contactor coil. While having the thermostat set at a temperature lower than the current room temperature (in the cooling mode) the thermostat should send a 24 volt signal to close the compressor contactor and turn it on. The non-metallic end of a screwdriver can be used to depress the moveable part of the contactor. After pushing in the contactor, should the compressor start then you may only need a new contactor. It may just hum because of a faulty run capacitor or grounded or shorted internal motor windings (grounded or shorted windings are usually indicated by tripped circuit breaker and/or blown fuse). It's a good idea to have a good multi-meter and knowledge of use before attempting any repairs or diagnosis on your own. I recommend some basic knowledge of electricity before even thinking about attempting any repairs or diagnosis.

May 08, 2014 | Goodman Manufacturing Goodman GSC130421...

1 Answer

Cool will not come on when it's set in auto mode


A thermostat is only a switch, nothing more. It's job is to cut on and off the cooling/heating equipment based on a preset temperature setting. It sends 24-28 volts to a contactor or relay which does the actual closing (turn on) or opening (turn off) the power to the compressor or furnace, and that's all it does. There could be a problem with the other parts of the system. When the space temperature exceeds the preset temperature the thermostat should provide 24-28 volts to the compressor contactor, to start the compressor. The "Auto-on" switch on the thermostat controls the fan only. If there isn't 24-28 volts from the thermostat to the coil of the contactor, the compressor will not operate,

Oct 30, 2013 | Hunter Fan Company 42999B - Heat/Cool...

1 Answer

Ice machince is going max freeze cycle shut down


1. Possible cause. Water leak. Check purge valve, water curtain, sump, sump hose.
2. Air filters clogged. Clean air filters.
3. Dirty condenser. Clean condenser.
4. Restricted location, intake air to hot. Have machine moved.
5. Ice thickness sensor dirty or disconnected. Check ice thickness sensor probe.
6. Water distributor dirty. Remove and clean water distributor.
7. Inlet water valve leaks through during freeze cycle. Check water inlet valve.
8. Connected to hot water. Check for bleed through from missing check valve in building water supply.
9. Incomplete harvest. Check harvest system.
10.High pressure cut out opened. Check fan motor pressure control, check fan motor, check controller using test mode.
11. Fan motor pressure control open. Check fan pressure control.
12. Fan motor not turning. Check fan motor, check fan blade,check controller using test mode.
13.Water pump not pumping. Check pump motor,check controller using test mode.
14. Pump hose disconnected. Check hose.
15. Compressor not operating. check compressor contactor, check controller using test mode.
Check compressor start components, check PTCR resistance and temperature, check compressor voltage, check compressor windings.
16. Low refrigerant charge. Add some refrigerant and restart unit. If cycle time imporves, look for a leak.
17. Hot gas valve leaks through during freeze. Check hot gas valve for hot outlet during freeze.
18. Thermostatic expansion valve bulb loose. Check bulb.
19. Thermostatic expansion valve producing very low or high superheat. Check evaporator superheat, Change TXV if incorrect.
20. Compressor inefficent. Check compressor amp draw, if low and all else is correcy, change compressor.

Sep 28, 2013 | Scotsman Ice Maker CM3 30inW Cubed Ice...

1 Answer

A/c won't stop running and no cool air


There seems to be a problem with the wiring of the thermostat. Apparently the thermostat is calling for cool (if wired properly), but is not being satisfied. The thermostat is just a switch. When there's a call for cool, the thermostat sends 24-28 volts to the contactor (inside the condensing unit to start the compressor and outdoor fan). The indoor fan is energized through the fan relay (inside the air handler). When the temperature in the conditioned space reaches the set temperature,then the thermostat cuts the power to the contactor and it stops the compressor and outdoor fan. Check that the compressor is actually running, if not, check for 24-28 volts on the wires feeding the contactor, if there is, and the contactor isn't closing then the contactor is defective. If the contactor closes and the compressor doesn't come on, check the capacitor. If the capacitor is good then check your compressor motor. I suspect you have an improperly wired thermostat

Aug 26, 2013 | Honeywell PRO 4000 5-2 Day Programmable...

2 Answers

13 yr old frigidaire refrigerator has stopped geting cold in freezer and refrigerator


how about the compressor motor still running?.then check the thermostat knob which set to off or get bad.

Oct 10, 2012 | Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer...

1 Answer

GE PTS25SHSARSS refrigerator no longer cooling. Only four years old. Lights, fans (freezer circulating and compressor) work ok. Compressor comes on intermittently. Can set (adjust the display)...


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

;''; ' ;

May 02, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Amana Refrigeration stopped running


If the compressor is at room temperature and no noise coming from it your problem could be the thermostat control. If the compressor is hot and you hear a hum followed by a click the compressor may have failed. Check the condenser and make sure it is clean. In those operating temperatures the compressor is overworking in the first place and if it is not getting free air flow across the condenser it can burn out. Best condition for operating any refrigerator is to remember that if you feel hot it feels hot. They are designed to operate in an place where we live and at the temperatures we live in.

Jun 06, 2008 | Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom...

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