Question about Kenmore Stove / Oven / Range Bake Element 9758519
Oven won't work, has error message of a green square with two red lines, one at the top and one at the bottom of the green square. What is this telling me? Is there a fuse in the stove that has blown? No circuit breakers were thrown.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
Posted on Nov 11, 2007
SOURCE: Kenmore Dishwasher, no power
There will be a thermal fuse located on the electronic control board housing that may have failed.This replaceable part (gray or white) is clipped on to the side of the plastic housing.
Posted on Jun 22, 2008
The F7 error code on your oven indicates the touch pad has failed. To repair it you will need to replace the touch pad which is listed as a control panel w/keypad in the parts diagram.
If you do the repair yourself, disconnect the power to the oven. Take the 3 screws out above the door that hold the control panel on to the oven. Pull the control panel out at the bottom and lift it up, then pull out the top and drop it down so you can see the back side of the control panel, and you will see a ribbon connector going from the touchpad to the electronic oven control (ERC).
There is a latch holding the ribbon connector to the ERC, raise the latch to release and pull the ribbon out of the ERC.
Replace the part and reverse these instructions to replace the control panel.
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
I am not familiar with this particular model, however there are a few things you could check. Do you get any lights or indications at all? Inside (unplug before removing cover) there is probably a fuse. If it is blown, you can replace it as it might have been blown by a power surge, however you should check to see if there is another bad component, especially if it blows a second time. There is generally a transformer, a capacitor and a diode in the power supply, and a magnetron that does the real work. If anything is burned or blackened, this may be your problem, or it could merely be an indication of another shorted component. Using a multimeter, you can check the magnetron. Measuring between the two terminals, you should see very low resistance. This is the filament. From either pin to ground you should see infinite resistance. Anything less and your magnetron is bad. The diode should measure relatively low in one direction and infinite or close to it in the other. The capacitor should start low and build to infinite (as it charges). Most people should just replace the fuse, if bad, and let a technician find any other problem. My built in was worth ordering a new magnetron. Some of the cheaper counter top units might not be worth fooling with. I hope this has helped you.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
if the breaker is fine then the next check will be the terminal box on dishwasher. usually that is where you would find your problem. let me know if this helps and if it did help me by sending a 4 thumbs up post Thanks!
Posted on Mar 01, 2010
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