Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

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I still don't see any leak. I replaced the spark module and now everything works.................... well except that when I turn the oven on the spark still click,click,click for ever. Should I change the swith on the oven????? Thank you

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  • Anonymous Aug 07, 2007

    Well, this oven has one spark ignitor that goes on with all of the other two spark ignitor on the top of the stove. It then light up some kind of pilot light and it seem like forever but after a while the main bar is in flammed and the oven is ready to go.
    However the spark ignitor is still on.
    Why doesn't it switch off?

  • Anonymous Aug 07, 2007

    I also tried the broiler and the spark ignitor goesn on right away just like the normal oven uasage mentionned earlier

  • Anonymous Feb 01, 2009

    burner igniter continues to spark, all four burners spark continuously



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That's right they all spark together, however when I use any of the top burner the sparks fires rather fast 2 click per second I guess. When trying to light the oven it looks like one click per second. Last night I tried so many times to see if I could come up with an answer, when the oven didn't produce the big flammes anymore. the click is happening rather slowly. then the pilot light is on and the click keeps firing but after 20 second the main flammes didn't happen. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

Posted on Aug 07, 2007

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These problems are difficult to diagnose sometimes without being there to actually see what is going on. Now...let me see if I can remember all of this. You replaced the spark module and have a spark at each burner now. You also checked for gas leaks and didn't find any. Now, you're telling me that the oven isn't working? Most oven igniters I'm familiar with are the glow bar type. Which means they don't spark at all. They glow to a certain current potential (roughly 2.7 to 3.3 amps) before the gas valve is opened and begins to flow. Once gas flow is achieved, the igniter ignites the gas. Now, when these igniters get old, they become weak and will not provide enough current to open the gas valve, or, they take a long time to ignite. If this is your case, then you need to replace the oven igniter. Does this help you? PS Keep in mind, some ovens have two separate igniters. One for the broiler and one for bake. Does the broil function work? If so, the oven switch is good.

Posted on Aug 07, 2007

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Aug 07, 2007

    Keep in mind that the position of the oven control switch could also play a part in keeping the igniter sparking. Does it continue to spark throughout the entire range of the switch? Hmmm...if your spark igniter for the oven comes on with the other igniters, then obviously they are all controlled by the same spark module and that can't be a problem. If the igniter continues to spark and won't shut off then it could possibly be a bad oven control switch. Something is keeping that igniter on...I may have to get back to you on this one. I'll post back later today with (hopefully) a better answer for you.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Aug 08, 2007

    It sounds like your gas valve regulator (oven control) may be the cause of your poor flame quality on the burner. Another thing that can cause this is the orifice being shut off too far, or clogged. The orifice will be located near the main regulator UNDER the oven tray. This is where the gas line meets the bake manifold. You can adjust the opening by turning a sleeve to allow more air. The more air in, the higher the fames. The less air, lower flames. What doesn't make sense to me is why the broiler burns normal, but the bake doesn't. I believe they are both controlled by the same valve regulator. As far as the igniter is concerned, I still think this may be the switch causing the problem. If the igniter is sparking then obviously it is not the electrode. If the igniter does not shut off, then I would suspect there's a short in the switch causing it to stay on. So...I would venture to say that the gas valve regulator switch would be a likely source of some of the problems you are having, and might be worth the effort to replace. I hope this helps.



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