Question about Washing Machines
Washing machine stopped before the water was drained
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. if the plunger is broke, it is cheap, and only 2 screws to remove and put new one on. if that is not broke, check the lid switch. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. you need to hinge the lid up to check and replace the lid switch. use a putty knife, on each side between the top and top of the front panel. slide the putty knife in one side, it will hit a bracket if your in the right spot. press in, and lift on that side of the top. do the same on other side, just don't let go of the first side or it will latch again. then swing the top back, the back side is on hinges. the lid switch is on the right side attached to the top. unplug washer, remove the 2 wires on the switch and check continuity. there should be continuity, or "open" when the lid is closed, and no continuity, or "closed" when you open the lid. if it is "closed" even when lid is closed, replace the lid switch. let me know if you have any further questions, shane.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Good AM. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. A timer (which you may be needing) will run you around $100.00 to $175.00 depending on where you live. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside (unrepairable in most cases) which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard (but never have seen) that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer.
None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully (even though some of these guys will be mad) you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are:
Water Level Switch: 359712
Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids (you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test) before replacing.
Posted on Dec 06, 2007
SOURCE: wont drain
if was a bad lid switch it would of never made it to the rinse/drain cycle, your drain line in unit is clogged with lint, material etc.
just like mine, now how do i clear it out, not drain in wall of house actual drain inside machine before hits the pump
Posted on Dec 24, 2007
If the machine does not drain, then follow th suggestions below:
It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
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