Question about GE JVM1540DM Microwave Oven

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GE Microwave JVM1540DM4BB No Power

Microwave just went dead. Breaker is not blown. Is there a fuse that needs to be changed? Where is it located?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: GE JES1344SK01 countertop microwave, no power

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall, in which case you can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams by entering your full model number here. Once you have the part numbers, though, I would suggest ordering parts here at a much lower cost.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Built-in microwave model JVM1870 appears to have died

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille, on the floor of the oven behind the control panel, between the door switches, or on the filter board near where the cord comes into the unit.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall.

You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here to make that easier.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

MicrowaveSvc
  • 9085 Answers

SOURCE: microwave won't heat

Sorry my Clarification Request came out as a single blob of a paragraph.

That's not how I typed it. I never write that way!

So I've pasted it here, but as a solution.



Magnetrons generally should last about 2000 hours, but several factors can shorten that.

If it's not OVER ten years old (from the purchase date or the date on the tag inside the unit) then the magnetron is still under warranty.

From the owner's manual:

"For the second through the tenth year from the date of original purchase

"The magnetron tube, if the magnetron tube fails due to a defect in materials or workmanship. During this nine-year limited warranty, you will be responsible for any labor or in-home service costs.

"For the above limited warranty: To avoid any trip charges, you must take the microwave oven to a
General Electric Customer Care® servicer and pick it up following service. In-home service is also
available, but you must pay for the service technician’s travel costs to your home."


GE Customer Service is here, and you can verify the warranty status and find your nearest authorized servicer.

If you're sure the magnetron's bad, it's still under warranty, and you or a friend are handy, they will send you the magnetron to do it yourself. Call them at 888-239-6832.

Be persistent. You may have to speak with a supervisor.


It does sound like the magnetron overheated and the magnetron's thermostat opened until it cooled down.

An overheating magnetron can be due to:

  • operating oven without cover(s) in place
  • wrong magnetron installed in oven
  • an old or otherwise failing magnetron
  • cracked magnetron magnet
  • improper power line voltage (should be 110-125VAC)
  • foods low in moisture (popcorn & bacon, e.g. - add 1/2 cup of water in rear oven)
  • failed or inoperable cooling fan or hood vent exhaust fan
  • deteriorating foam weatherstripping seals in air ducts or on outside cover
  • blocked air vents (dust, animal nest debris, insufficient free air space behind & around oven, etc.)
  • clogged or greasy charcoal filter or grease filter
  • blocked duct in hood vent exhaust
Since yours is a counter top model, there are less of those factors to worry about.

When you hit Start to microwave, do the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on?


Any unusual noises? Is it louder or quieter than usual?

We have a sound clip of what a microwave should sound like when the cooling fan and high voltage section are operating here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts if needed by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

Let us know what you find out or decide.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

tbirdfan1
  • 3051 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave Blowing Fuse. Fixed. After Day, Fuse Blows Again.

Hello there:
If you have all ready changed out the fuse and it has happned again i would first check to see that the fuse is the right one for the machine (i am sure that you did this but please recheck ) next i would look at the controle board as the next culprit it maay be failing expecially if there were any pops ar sparks that was noticed before the initial failure.
Also check to see if all of the wires by the board a re not loose or looked burned ar if there is any grease or anything like this around the area
And finally check to see if the plate is turning ok and not sticking cause this would cause the microwave to overload and it wil make every fuse you put in there fail after just a couple of uses ok
SO please try all of these things that i have explained to you
I hope this is very helpful for you.
Best regards Michael

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

SOURCE: GE Spacemaker microwave JVM140G just stopped

NO internal fuse. It is most likely, the magnetron, and or High power diode. As related In all likelihood the mangnetron has failed, or perhaps even the Power Supply. or a fault that is shutting the system down for safety reasons You need to have it serviced by a reputable service centre/man. Ensure you get a firm "Quote" before proceeding, and remember these days the cost of repair can equal or exceed the price of a new one.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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I woulds first suspect a blown internal fuse or a thermal cutout on the magnetron in your case, but a microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for just a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power on again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

We appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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