Crate bv120.no power or sound..no lights..f6 fuse has 160 ohms...

Question edited for clarity (with a guess at model).
Question moved from Television and Video.

If you want to check inside it, look for damaged components or blown or bulging capacitors. The best solution is to take it to a local electronics or audio store for repair.

https://www.google.com/search?q=crate+yellow+amplifier+no+sound

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If sure that power is reaching and getting into unit, then confirm that a signal is also reaching unit. If both are positive, then your gear is FUBAR if signal is going into correct input.

Are all the tubes lighting up? they should glow like dim light bulbs. If not, replace them with the same model type (12ax7, or EL34 for example).

Often there are two fuses, one to protect the speaker and another to protect everything, it sounds like the latter fuse may be burned out. take it out and take it to radio Shack for exact replacement.

bad wires or fuse or connections

What could be an issue is if the cabinet is a 4 ohm cabinet and you plug it into the 8 ohm output. of the RT100 ... IT WILL BE LOUDER that way... for a LITTLE while... till the power tubes get gassy from overheating and the sound will GO AWAY. VERIFY the impedance of the cabinet and plug into the correct jack on the RT100. Every RT100 will do this... it is GROSS abuse of the amp if you plug 4 ohm speakers into the 8 ohm jack. Some of the power tubes may conduct so heavily when they get gassy that they will cause a hum before total failure. The tubes will first get red, then orange plates and that drives metal ions out of the plates, then they get a purple glow and eventually blow the fuse or something in the power supply.

150 watts should be easily handled by four Peavey speakers in the connection you described.. If the Peavey's are 8 ohms, then your total load was 8 ohms for the series/parallel arrangement which is well within the 2 ohm drive capability of the Crate according to specs.

I question if you really mean the speakers were in series? This requires a special cable to do this. Now if you mean they were "daisy chained" like the amp went to one speaker and another cable connected that speaker to another, then you REALLY had ALL speakers in parallel electrically which would be at the 2 ohm low limit of the amp... In either case, with only 1/4 of the 150 Watts to each, the speakers should NOT have been damaged. The amp MAY have been damaged. Try each speaker individually at a REASONABLE level to test.

If you plug into the effects loop out jack,OFTEN the connection to the internal power amp is broken so you might have to arrange a special cable as a wye to go back into the power amp as well as your external amp. In any case pwere ALL interconnected amps, etc from the same power source/receptacle for system safety.

When a piece of equipment causes a fuse to blow or a breaker to trip, it normally means something in the equipment's circuit was shorted. Either because of heat, moisture, a loose screw, loose wire, loose part, a bug, etc. For safety reasons, don't plug it back in and take it to a repair shop.

Hope this helps!

you have either a failing fuse or a failing power transformer. take out the screws on the top of the amp, leave the handle in tact and pull out the chasis. look at your fuse to see if it is in its holder correctly, and see if the fuse is burnt. the correct fuse values will be printed on the circuit board. if the fuse looks good then, it may be the power tranny going south.

Your amplifier is a solid-state rectified tube amplifier. This means that a tube is NOT used for the power supply. Why is this significant? Because most of the time you have the problem you are describing, it is because of the tube rectifier.
Since this amp does not have a tube rectifier, the problem is likely one or more of the tubes. I have seen in 95% of the amps I repaired that the tubes were the cause, and since the amp is so new, I would suspect tubes first.
Now the hard part: which tube? Without a tube tester, you will have to use the 'firewall' technique. You will need to get a bunch of replacement fuses, as you might go through a few untill you find the problem. Radio Shack is a great place for fuses (make sure they are SLOW BLOW type).
The problem is almost guarenteed to be the power tubes: they are a big failure mode in tube amps (the preamp tubes are not as likely the problem).

This is what I do at a customer site without a tube tester:
(1) Have either a KNOWN TO BE GOOD REPLACEMENT SET OF TUBES or a NEW SET OF TUBES.
(2) Have plenty of fuses.
(3) Start with power tubes: they cause most of these problems. Replace burned out fuse.
(4) Replace all 2 (or 4 in your case) with the good tubes.
(5) Turn on amp and play on it (30 minutes at various volumes and settings). Turn it on and off many times using the on/off procedure your amp requires (like using the standby switch on some models).

* if the amp plays and works, likely you had a bad power tube. If you are blowing fuses, the problem is either the power amp circuitry or the preamp tubes.

* Leave the good power tubes in before going on to the next step. Also: the minor difference in bias wont matter for what we are doing now: the bias being WAY out is almost never the cause.

(6) Check preamp tubes (easy to do, as this does not require us to poke around on the insides).
(7) Replace burned out fuse (atleast number two by this point).
(8) Replace all preamp tubes.
(9) Turn on and repeat step 5.

* Blowing fuses at this point means atleast two types of repairs needed: retention tube sockets or someone to look inside the amp. Either way, this is a serviceman repair (things I do). Since the amp is so new, take the warentee buyout and throw it back to where you got it. Crate is real good about dealing with these issues (if you are the only owner and it is within warantee).

If you need to contact warantee support, you can tell them you have had the amp re-tubed and the problem still persists (meaning they can brush you off with 'just get it retubed and then call us if there is problems'. This is like 'take two asprins and call me in the morning: 95% of all tube amp problems can be fixed by this (retube, not asprins).

If you have to do the warantee route, KEEP YOUR NEW TUBES. The preamp tubes are fine, but the power tubes may be damaged. Wait for what Crate tells you before you use them. This is if you are cheap. I would pitch all of the tubes and consider the 70 bucks as my cheap attempt to bet I am in the 95% solution number (tubes are the cause). Otherwise, the repair will cost shipping at a minumum. Dont you love it: tube amps are expensive and require someone with deep pockets to enjoy the tone. But what can we do: tubes DO sound better and when everything is working, they perform reasonably well.

Good luck on this!
-mike

Ah yes: complete catastrophe. Usually when everything is not working, it is a single reason and when that single reason is fixed, so is the amp.

Based on what you tell me, I am going to say you have a bad power tube. And I will even go as far to say that you buy a set of tubes and play on them as long as you can. If so, then you not only burned up the tube, but weakened the power section and may have a slooow tube frier. I always tell customers: modern tubes have an effective life of less that 1200 or so hours and that varies. Replace the tubes once per year if you gig with the amp: period. Otherwise, guys like me (doing repairs) stay busy and the tube companies get rich selling tubes to amps with weakened power sections.
It sounds like you burned a power tube and blew a fuse. First, you need a new set of power tubes and some extra fuses (go to Radio Shack and set the value you need in SLOW BLOW fuses).
Then, replace all the power tubes. Don't worry about biasing yet, we are just seeing if there is a problem. Next, replace the fuse.
Turn on the amp and play on it at various volumes and settings. If all is well, take the amp to a tech and get it rebiased. If you can afford it, pay to have the grid/plate and other resistors changed so the power section will be like new (clean slate with new tubes). Your amp will love you for it.
Almost all of the amps I have worked on for performance problems (cant keep tubes to stay alive for very long) are directly related to end user use. When you use a tube until it blows it ALWAYS TAKES SOMETHING WITH THE TUBE WHEN IT GOES (like the power section components). The compents will be weakened and the tubes will 'wear' at different rates that can even move them out of the 20% tolerence they must be within to sound good. 99% of the time a board repair with a retube after a catastrophe fixes the amp until the next time it is 'run into the ground'. Tube amps are NOT invinceble: they are weak compared to solid state and expensive to own. But we love tubes because they sound great. I have solid state to knock around on, when when it counts, I play only with tubes. I have spent hundreds on good tubes because you do get what you pay for.

Hope this helps!
-mike