Question about Garden
TOMBONES49 is there anyway I can contact you or you contact me regarding a diagram you posted of a 1982 yamaha xt250 carb? I am currently going through one of these bikes and need to fine tune the carb but cannot find any info anywhere. You were the only diagram I found all over the net. My email is MarlinsMcnasty @ yahoo DOT com (figured the site wouldnt let me post it) or maybe reply on here? Im not exactly sure how to use this site but you seem to be the mechanic man!!! THANKS AND GOD BLESS
Posted on Jun 23, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
MOST OF WHAT YOU SAID IS CORRECT.NORMALY WHEN YOUR BELT STARTS DOING THAT YOU SHOULD REPLACE BOTH YOUR DECK SPINDLES AS THERE IS NO ZERK FITTING TO ADD GREASE.THIS HAPPENED TO ME A FEW YEARS BACK.HOPE THIS HELPED
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
Put your blade back on so you will have some backup on the nut. Wedge a piece of 2x4 between the blade and deck to hold the shaft while you take off the nut. You should do that before unbolting the spindle. If you are just replacing bearings, you don't have to unbolt the spindle at all. Just remove the pulley on top and the shaft with blade attached will slide out the bottom. The botton bearing, however, will be on the shaft and is difficult to get off. I use a bearing splitter to get it down far enough to drive off the shaft.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
Is that how your manual recommends changing the belt?
On most riding mowers, the deck must be lowered in order to replace the belt
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
If you do not the facilities to use an impact wrench, you will need to find to hold the pulley and you a breaker bar with a socket on it to get the pulley nut loose. I would use either"PB Blaster or Deep Creep" penetrating oil and spray it on the nut before you try to take it apart.
Or you may find a professional shop, take the deck to them and may may take the pulley off for a small fee.
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
SOURCE: Eats mower drive belts
You say you checked everything. I would remove the deck and belt and physically make sure both blades spin freely. Then I'd install the belt and check again, it sounds as though each component works fine alone but when in conjunction with other parts something is binding. Good luck
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
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Fig. 1: Inspect the bearings for abnormal wear and/or damage
With Manual Locking Hubs
(see Figures 2 through 17)
Fig. 2: Before beginning the wheel bearing removal, and after the outer hub is removed, wipe off any excess grease
Fig. 3: After the grease is wiped off, remove the axle shaft snapring ...
Fig. 4: ... then pull the splined spacer from the axle shaft end
Fig. 5: Use a 4 pronged socket to loosen the outer wheel bearing locknut ...
Fig. 6: ... then remove the outer locknut
Fig. 7: Remove the lockwasher from behind the outer locknut ...
Fig. 8: ... then loosen and remove the inner locknut-note the lockwasher engagement pin (arrow)
Fig. 9: While pushing inwards on the rotor/hub assembly, remove the outer wheel bearing ...
Fig. 10: ... then pull the rotor/hub assembly from the spindle, taking care not to scratch the bearing cups in the hub
Fig. 11: Pry out the grease seal on the back of the rotor/hub assembly ...
Fig. 12: ... then remove the inner wheel bearing. Thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts for wear or damage
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