Rear wheels lockedup after shuting down. operated unit for five min. worked perfect. Tried to op. the next day , brake will not release in either mode. Dave

I should have disengaged when it broke if not it is jammed some where and not releasing so raise the rear and follow the brake cable to the rear axle and remove cable try rotating wheels if no joy remove wheels and tap brake drums and try rotating drums if still no joy try stripping brake system down on rear axles to free up internals

this is rather odd as none I have seen are 4 wheel drive. only rear wheels drive and if the clutch/brake pedal is down and locked it will not roll when you releases the back lever

that would be the high stop light ? sound like it has been wired up wrongly, it should only operate off the brake pedal being used, loop it into the stop light wiring loom

This sounds like the abs system is coming on, this may be due to a bad wheel sensor, the best way to see if the noise is the abs is to remove abs fuse and drive, the abs light will come on but drive to see if noise is gone. by removing the fuse the system will shut down. the way it makes noise when close to a stop means the abs could be the noise, a bad sensor at the wheel would cause this. it looses the signal for a sec or two and the compuetr thinks the wheel is skidding and the rest are moving, so the noise you hear is the abs unit release the wheel. if the abs is the problem then the next step is to have a garage scan the abs module for codes. the codes will tell you where the problem is and which wheel. good day.

Under the car on the drivers side you will see a threaded rod that goes through a saddle that goes off with two cables to the rear wheels, adjust the cable there using the adjustment nut.

In this case, you will need to leak the for wheels, never leak only one or two wheels when adjusting the breaks. If the leaking continues you need to check the conduit for potential damages. If pedal stay soft after checking everything else, check the break fluid unit. The unit has a piston if I'm not wrong. The piston has some parts that are of rubber material which can wear out or get damaged.

Do you use your e-brake often ? If they are not used frequently the cable becomes dry and rusty and will seize and the brake will not release. You will have to access the mechanism at the rear wheels and try to release the cables. Can be a big job without proper tools.

it is hard to diagnose an ABS problem with out seeing do it for yourself, but let me give it a try. first the reason the rear brakes try to lock when the lights are on is because when those lights come on the ABS computer shuts down the ABS system, so just remember when the lights are on you do not have ABS. Good to know if the roads are slick. If you find out why the rear brakes are trying to lock you will probably find the reason the lights are coming on I would check the rear wheel sensors, also check the posi. track unit in the rear differential it could be that the posi. unit is not releasing going around corners and that could also cause a problem with the ABS system. the way the system works is there is a computer that watches the wheel speed if when you apply the brakes if the computer sees one wheel slow faster then all the other wheels it will release the brake to that wheel. so if the posi. unit is trying to lock whatever happens to one wheel will effect the other wheel. GOOD LUCK. If your local shop has no luck you should probably brake down and go see the dealer.

Hi, there are bleed screws on the cylinders located on the top and back of the brake plate right where the brake line is attached. Have an assistant pump up and hold the brake pedal, open the bleed screw on one side and the pedal should go to the floor, have the assistant continue to hold it down until you have tightened the bleeder, now repeat until no more air comes out. Repeat for the other side.

When bleeding never allow the Masrer Cylinder get below 1/4 full or you will introduce more air, which will mean starting over again. I helps if you have a length of clear plastic tubing that fits snugly over the tip of the bleed nipple so that you can see if there is any air bubbles being released. You usually start at the rear wheel that has the longest run of pipe from the master cylinder. Next is the other rear wheel. Next is the front wheel with the longest run and last is the remaining front wheel. Proceedure:
1. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3 or 4 time then hold down an maintain weight on pedal as it drops when fluid is released.
2. Release bleed nipple and observe fluid coming out for bubbles then retighten when flow stops.
3. Assistant then allows pedal up and waits for a few seconds for cylinder piston to refill fully.
4. Repeat from #1 until no more air bubbles are visible, then go to next wheel.
If pedal still feels a little spongy repeat process after a couple of days driving with engine running so that any remaining tiny air bubbles are purged.
You should also make sure that the brake pedal free travel adjustment is correct because if the free travel is insufficient, it will not allow the master cylinder to operate correctly..