Question about Hayward EC-40 DE Pool Filter with pump

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Backwash housing is leaking through small crack by one of the four screws on top of the valve.

Backwash valve housing cracked by screws on top of valve.

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  • Hayward Master
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Try pool putty or JB weld or replace

Posted on Jun 05, 2016

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: water dripping out of backwash port when handle is on filter

You might have it overfilled with sand. It's getting into the seats of the valves.

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 366 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Hayward sand filter and the top is

those tanks are designed to hold alot of pressure. If it is cracked, it's already unsafe. When the pump turns on, the tanks usually flex a little bit, depending on your system. The flexing usually makes the patch come undone. It's best, and safer, to replace the filter tank.

Posted on Apr 08, 2010

jharwell668
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: crack on the valve where

You can try some sort of epoxy to seal the crack, but I myself haven't had much luck patching these pool filters. It is worth a shot if you want to save money, but don't expect great results. If you do attempt it, try a quick drying, waterproof epoxy sealant.

Posted on Apr 20, 2011

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2 Answers

My Neptune MAH3 is leaking from the detergent dispenser.


The detergent dispenser is easily replaced, simply held in place by the four corner screws which fasten the door and door frame to the washing machine.

Unless the dispenser itself is cracked, your leak may actually be occurring from a loose clamp or hose attached to the dispenser. Or perhaps the leak is coming from the hoses, which are connected to the back of the machine in the same corner as the dispenser. The fill valve, to which the hoses are connected, could also be the problem. These valves are made of plastic, and can eventually crack and fail. This valve is also fairly easy to replace.

If it's been awhile since your washing machine hoses were installed, I would highly recommend changing them out if/when you repair other items. Stainless steel hoses are now available, preferable to plain rubber ones, better to handle constant water pressure. Be sure to note a date on the back of your machine with a Sharpie or paint pen the date the hoses, fill valve, or other items were changed. I do this as a reminder for the fill valve, which gets eaten up by our municipal water supply about every four years.

Aug 16, 2014 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My 1.5 Hp pump squirts water out the backwash view glass when I backwash or pump out waste. What is causing this. This is a brand new unit.


was viewport screws tightend up after shipment, or could you have a small crack in it , happens durring shipping !

Jun 06, 2014 | Pentair Superflo 1 1/2 Hp In Ground Pool...

1 Answer

My culligan 30 good water system leaks--i have turned it off because of the mess--i would like to fix it and can i do this outside of the kitchen so i don't have to clean up so much water


Your question is difficult to answer until you determine where it is leaking. Some common places to check are inlet and outlet ports,are fittings going into these tight enough, are they to tight and have cracked the housing on filter . Is there rust or other debris lodged in pressure relief valve.Is it leaking on gasket.
I'm not trying to avoid your question I just need more info. If it's leaking around inlet or outlet ports then you can take these apart if they installed a union. If so then you can remove fittings and tape with several wraps of teflon tape and use pipe joint compound also if you like. If copper or brass fittings were used for installation they may have cracked the housing where they screw into. Sometime you can't see hairline cracks unless fittigs are installed.If it is leaking around base gasket you can remove filter housing and clean gasket and both sealing surfaces. Sometimes a small amount of faucet grease or petroleum jelly on the gasket will help it seal
If it's leaking out of pressure relief you will need to remove filter top and wash out with clean water to clear any rust or mineral particles.
Sorry I can't be more specific but I hope this helps some and if there is anything else I can do let me know. Thank you

Dec 14, 2010 | Culligan Under Sink Water Filter

1 Answer

Water is all over the floor from the washing machine. What could be the problem


water pump, hose or tub.. depends when you noticed water. After it was filled? during draining or filling? Also a clogged drain will cause backwash. Holes in tub from rust will leak out water, water pump cracked can leak water or hoses to drain or to washer not sealed or cracked. Overfill from a faulty fill valve can also do that, but then you'd see lots of water all obver on that one.

Jun 16, 2010 | LG WM1814CW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

How to change the sand in the filter


Backwash the filter, drain water from motor etc., remove the dome on the top of the filter. I usually use a shop vac and vac the sand out, not overloading the vac. When all the sand is removed, check the laterals and piping in the filter for cracks, etc. I like to spread washed pea gravel or small rock under the laterals to help support them. Then add about 6 inches of water in the filter. Be sure to get sand of the right grade for a sand filter. Fill it with the recommended amount of sand, smoothing it to keep it level and around all fittings. Do Not fill the filter all the way. There needs to be space between the sand and the top laterals. Close the filter with the dome and be sure to inspect the o-ring on the dome. Put the backwash valve in the backwash position and backwash till clear. Put the valve on "filter" and open the air release valve on the top of the filter to bleed the air and start the pump. The pool may cloud a little but don't worry about it. It will clear as the sand compacts. It is a very labor intensive job...

Jun 15, 2010 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

1 Answer

Fuel leaking from dain


I am assuming this is a diesel 7.3l powerstroke? Leaking from housing or the drain? If the housing itself is leaking maybe the oring on the lid is bad or it is cracked. If it is leaking out the drain hose the little petcock valve is probably bad. That little hose is for draining out water in the filter housing. Make sure the valve is tightened. If it is get a new valve and install it. If it still leaks take the cover off of the motor and check the o-ring on the lid where the fuel filter goes make sure it is not pinched, hardened, or cracked. Then run the truck with the filter housing exposed and check for leaks and or cracks after of course re-installing the lid for the filter housing.

Nov 02, 2009 | 1999 Ford F250 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Finding the location of the blower motor


First, remove the glove box...easy three screws total. Two on the bottom, and one holding the shock on the right side. Second, remove the metal bar that is behind the glove box...four phillips screws. Third, remove the two bolts securing the dash on the right side. Fourth, remove the small RH kick plate...pull hard it has three clips. Fifth, remove the two screws on the bottom of the fan housing and remove the bottom diffuser...small plastic peice. Sixth, remove the front center metal clip and remove this small plastic piece. Seventh, pull the carpet back on the passenger side and remove the four nuts securing the computer to the floor board and swing it out to the left. Next, disconnect the neg terminal on the battery and remove the three plugs that were near the RH kick plate. Now comes the fun part. The dash will be hindering the removal of the blower motor housing. First, remove the metal band securing the blower motor housing and the heater core housing together. It's one 10mm bolt at the top. This band clips to another band securing the two housing together on the back side. You will also need to remove the two small phillips screws securing the rear band to the blower motor housing...one on the top and one on the bottom. The rear band gets in the way when removing the housing. So when the housing assembly drops remove the rear band from the top...set this part in first on installation. Last, remove the four 10mm nuts securing the blower motor housing to the firewall. The housing will not fall to the floor on its own. You will need to pull up and out on the bottom of the dash while guiding the housing assembly down and to the left. Be careful not to pull agressively on the dash. It's strudy, but will crack if you are too rough. ALSO FOLLOW THIS LINK BELOW http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/0d/63/0900823d800d0d63.jsp

Jul 15, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

2 Answers

My steamvac leaks from the clean water tank


try to look for small holes or cracks and even the tank.use clamps to make sure your hose is firmly attached.

Jun 21, 2009 | Hoover F6212-900 / F6215-900 SteamVac...

1 Answer

Blower moter will not work need to find the location


The motor is located behind the glove box on the passenger side under the dash, here is the change out procedure.

First, remove the glove box...easy three screws total. Two on the bottom, and one holding the shock on the right side. Second, remove the metal bar that is behind the glove box...four phillips screws. Third, remove the two bolts securing the dash on the right side. Fourth, remove the small RH kick plate...pull hard it has three clips. Fifth, remove the two screws on the bottom of the fan housing and remove the bottom diffuser...small plastic peice. Sixth, remove the front center metal clip and remove this small plastic piece. Seventh, pull the carpet back on the passenger side and remove the four nuts securing the computer to the floor board and swing it out to the left. Next, disconnect the neg terminal on the battery and remove the three plugs that were near the RH kick plate. Now comes the fun part. The dash will be hindering the removal of the blower motor housing. First, remove the metal band securing the blower motor housing and the heater core housing together. It's one 10mm bolt at the top. This band clips to another band securing the two housing together on the back side. You will also need to remove the two small phillips screws securing the rear band to the blower motor housing...one on the top and one on the bottom. The rear band gets in the way when removing the housing. So when the housing assembly drops remove the rear band from the top...set this part in first on installation. Last, remove the four 10mm nuts securing the blower motor housing to the firewall. The housing will not fall to the floor on its own. You will need to pull up and out on the bottom of the dash while guiding the housing assembly down and to the left. Be careful not to pull aggressively on the dash. It's sturdy, but will crack if you are too rough.

Apr 14, 2009 | 1991 Honda Accord

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