Removing Head lights

the front grille is held on by two bolts on top and the rest are pull tabs holding it on. I would use a flat head screw driver and pop the center one out first then the two on each side under the head lights

sometimes you can pull the release lever and hit the top of the hood and it will come open...and the front grid is more than likely the front grille.

The first thing you do is get close to the grille an look there should be eather bolts in the center or the left side or right. The other ones are on the top or inbehind the head lights

1. In order to remove the headlights, you need to remove the front bumper cover.
2. Place the front of the car on jack stands.
3. You will need to remove the screws on each side in the fender wells on the back side that screw into the bumper. these are torx screw head type.
4. On the underside of the car there are larger torx type screws that attach the bumper cover to the body. They need to be removed.
5. You will need to remove the grill that has the VW symbol on it. Under the grill there is more torx type screws to remove. Inorder to remove the grill you need to get the hood release rod off as well.
6. With the bumper cover removed, there are four torx type screws holding the headlight in place. Once removed you can unplug them and the head light is off.
   

The signal light on the grill next to the head light can be accessed by removing the the front grill. Your going to need a torque screw driver to remove the grill to get to the light bulb. The signal from under the bumper can be accessed from behind the bumper and you need not to take the turn light assemble off from the bumper. There are LED light bulbs available now and last much longer then the conventional bulbs and cost not that much more. Auto Zone carries these replacement LED bulbs and they can give you the step by step instruction to getting the job done if you need more illustration. Good luck and hope this helps and please rate, keep me posted. Be glad to help you get your lights replaced.

Here's some instructions for removing bumper and headlights.

E-Class W211 front bumper removal (standard body style).

Tools needed:
- Automotive wheel ramps (Rhino ramps from Autozone).
- 1/4" drive socket set with 8mm and 10mm sockets.
- #20 torx bit.
- Floor jack, optional but useful.
- Flat blade screwdriver.

Instructions for bumper removal:

1) Turn front wheels full right to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of left wheel well plastic splash guard. It's difficult to remove this fastener once the car is up on the wheel ramps.

2) Turn front wheels full left to remove push-pin fastener at lower front corner of right wheel well plastic splash guard.

3) Drive car up on wheel ramps. Block rear tires. Open hood.

4) Remove lower mesh plastic grille. There are five attachment points on the top edge of the grille. You can get to three of them with your hand by reaching between the radiator and the back side of the grille. The two outer ones can be released with a screwdriver also reaching in between the grille and radiator. Once the plastic tabs are released, you can remove the grille by pulling it out from the front of the car.

5) Remove the plastic panel located immediately behind the bumper from the bottom of the engine compartment. This panel is held in place with nine sheet metal screws with a 8mm hex head. Five screws are on the bottom of the car and there are two screws in each wheel well at the inner lower edge. After removing all nine screws you can work the panel free.

6) Disconnect the cable from each fog light and remove both fog lights. They are held in place by two sheet metal screws with a #20 torx head.

7) Remove the side marker bulbs. The one on the passenger side turns clockwise to remove and the one on the driver side turns counter-clockwise.

8) Remove the temperature sensor from its socket on the driver side.

9) If you have a floor jack, raise the car at the jack point on the cross member below the engine. You do not want to raise it off the wheel ramps. But it helps to have more clearance above the tires to work in the front wheel wells.

10) Remove three of the plastic nuts holding the forward half of the plastic wheel well liner in place. It's not necessary to remove the plastic liner. You just need to loosen it up so that you can pull it away from the fender to gain access to the screw and bracket securing the bumper to the fender.

11) Pull back the wheel well liner and remove the sheet metal screw from the rear end of the metal bracket . There is only one sheet metal screw (#20 torx head) holding this bracket in place. Don't attempt to remove the bracket yet. I used a #20 torx bit in a 1/4" socket with a 6-inch extension for a 1/4" drive wrench. The head of the screw faces the ground.

12) Remove the 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding the bumper to the headlight assembly between the small lens and large lens (both sides).

13) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) on either side of the large grille area opening.

14) Remove the two 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) securing the bumper to the bottom edge of the crashbar. You can access these bolts through the front where you removed the plastic mesh grille.

15) Remove the three 5mm bolts (8mm hex head) holding each headlight assembly in place. Two longer bolts are on top. One at the rear outer corner and one at the front inner corner. The third bolt is accessed from the bottom. It's in the area above the fog lamps. You don't need to disconnect the headlight cables and remove the assembly. But it helps to allow the headlight assembly to "float" freely while you disengage the bumper from the fender.

16) At this point all of the fasteners holding the bumper in place have been removed. The only thing left to do is to remove the two brackets "clamping" the bumper cover to the lower front edge of the front fenders. Before you do this, position some cardboard boxes, bags of packing material, six packs of paper towels, or other suitable items to protect the bumper in case it falls off the car.

17) The bracket holding the bumper cover to the fender has a "pin" that slips into a slot at the front edge of the bumper cover. There is a matching slot near the front edge of the fender. It's not possible to see this pin from the bottom of the car. Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry the bracket away from the bumper/fender and towards the center of the car. The bracket will "hinge" on the pin at the front end of the bracket. After you swing the bracket away from the bumper, you need to slide it forward to remove it from the slot in the bumper cover and fender. You will probably scratch some paint off of this bracket with the screwdriver. I recommend repainting the scratched areas of the bracket before reinstalling it.

18) After removing the bracket from each side of the car you need to deal with the small plastic "hook" holding the bumper cover to the very front tip of the fender. This hook is an integral part of the bumper cover. Disengaging this hook from the fender is probably the most difficult step of removing the bumper. Simultaneously raise the head light assembly slightly, push the leading edge of the fender outward slightly, and push the bumper cover inward toward the headlight assembly. Don't get too aggressive with the fender. It's aluminum and you will make a real mess if you apply too much pressure on the fender. It took me about 20 minutes to free each side from this hook. It should take you less time, since you now know that the hook exists!

19) Gently pull the bumper forward and away from the car. This is one step where a second person would be helpful. But I did manage to do this step alone. There is a "pulley" like attachment point on each side just below the fender/bumper seam.

To re-install the bumper, reverse the order of the steps above. When re-installing the bracket between the bumper cover and fender, I smeared a thin coating of car wash soap on the bracket to facilitate snapping the bracket back into place.

TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR YOU WILL HAVE TO DISCONECT THE BATERY AND RAISE AND SUPORT THE CAR FROM THE FRONT LEFT END AND REMOVE THE TIRE AFTER THAT LOSEN OF THE ALT BELT BY LOSENING AND REMOVING A SHORT 12MM HEAD SCREW ON THE ALT ADJUSTER ON TOP AND LOSENING AND REMOVING A LARGE 14MM HEAD SCREW ON THE BOTTOM AFTER THAT PRAY THE ALT WITH A BIG FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER AFTER THAT TAKE OF THE ALT SUPORT TO LET THE ALT COME DOWN THE SUPORT IS BOLTED TO THE ENGINE BLOCK WITH 2 SHORT 14MM HEAD SCREWS, AFTER THAT YOU CAN TAKE OF THE ALT CONECTOR AND B+ CABLE NOW YOU CAN REMOVE THE ALT . INST INVERSE

first i wanna say good luck too you..I don't know who dizayn that head light assmebly but it was the stupidist think i ever seen..
My friend 1992 accord had a broken head light and he asked me the favor and i thinked just the headlight why not...
first i had to remove front grill and side marker find one bolt under side marker but it dosent change anything then i figure it out whole think!!!!!
You have to remove whole bumper cover and bracet to remove bottom screws 3 on inside 2 on out side of head light...
i have to spend hours to replace 40 bucks head light..

Jack up the front of the vehicle. Secure the vehicle with at least once JACK STAND. Open the hood of the car. Remove the front grill. Remove the fasteners on the head light assembly that are located on the exposed inner fender and the one that was under the front grill. Lay on your back and look between the front fender and the head light assembly. You only have about 4 inches. Remove that screw. All screws are either Phillips or torks.

ok owhats the problem look under the hood and ull see 3 to 5 screws there take them out and ur done