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A picture of circuit board

I need a picture of KK-9912L Radio's circuit board. on of power supply wire cut and I don't know where solder it. can anybody help?

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If you are not familiar with electronics, do not attempt to repair. Whether you suffer fatal electric shock. Instead, contact any experienced service technician, or the nearest service center.

Posted on Apr 27, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 298 Answers

SOURCE: help

Hello,

The Power Supply Board is listed below. Please note, there are 2 models with the same beginning number (PDP4294). Verify your model number before selecting the Power Supply Board as each board is different depending on the model number.

For PDP4294LV use:
Akai PDP4294LV Power Supply Board Replacement

For PDP4294LV1 use:
Akai PDP4294LV1 Power Supply Board Replacement

Posted on Apr 16, 2008

SOURCE: need circuit diagram for bush

Diagrams i am sure as you know are not always easy to come by, at least for free. I see that there are available boards online and a company that will rebuild this model of power board for you in UK. ohmsupplies.co.uk is where it is at. looks like $80

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

  • 2318 Answers

SOURCE: Does anyone know which connector to plug into on power supply

Double check all the connections from the AC line and from the power supply to the other circuit boards. The connectors you are mentioning are identical as per the picture below.
If you need a new power supply, you can find one from this link.


be4d37f.jpg

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

Testimonial: "I have a few more questions that I would love to ask Jaime867. He produced a drawing of my circuit board within minutes and was a big help. Thanks"

budmrtn
  • 11361 Answers

SOURCE: Lightning strike nearby caused momentary power

Main AC fuse is encased in the black shrink tubing, labeled with Fx next to two pin white AC input terminal; http://assets.shopjimmy.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/s/j/sj1av4u20c17400.jpg

Please see my basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums

Parts: http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?q=Sanyo+DP42848+&stock=all&limit=100

Posted on Jun 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Samsung power supply & IP board BN44-00264B &

For anyone else with this problem...I ended up getting a replacement transformer from ebay and swapping it out myself.

You have to remove the back panel of the TV, unplug the board from the harness going to it, unscrew the board (both via the set of screws going directly through the board and the set going through the plastic piece on the opposite side that, as far as I could tell, the board is glued to). This plastic piece (running the length of the board) has receptacles for the backlight bulbs, so be gentle getting it in and out. Don't forget the screw in the middle of the board.

De-soldering was a little tricky. My soldering skills are not great, so maybe it was me. But it certainly seemed to be a little challenging to get it all out. Having so many terminals probably didn't help (a capacitor would have been easier). Eventually though, I did get it out. Soldering in a new one was easy. Be sure to check continuity between the terminals of the new part and other parts of the board using the traces as a guide once you're done.

After that, simply re-install the board and put all hardware back in. Like I said before, be sure you re-engage the receptacles of all the backlight bulbs by pushing down at each notch on that plastic part of the board.

Hope this helps someone else...

Posted on Dec 19, 2011

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You are supposed to replace-repair the wire by using a fuseable link repair kit where you splice another fuse link into the circuit.
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I have one of these new, in the box, with no instructions.

Specifications:
Power Output: 40W/Chan Maximum, 18W/Chan RMS
(20hz-20khz into 4 ohms at less than 1% THD)
Freq. Responce: 20hz-30khz, +/-3dB
Signal to noise ratio: 80dB, A-weighted
Input Sensitivity:
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High Level, 1-5v
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As you can see the RMS wattage output of these units is only about 18W maximum.

I am planning on using the amp I have on a low power factory car radio. A low power factory radio output should be somewhere between 6-12 watts rms/channel. I will be using the "High Level" inputs for this. DO NOT connect a radio with a higher output power. If your radio says "High Power", 25W/channel, etc, do not connect to this amp. (exception: you can use the "line out" connectors, if so equipped, See Below). I don't have the connector for the high level input so i don't know what I'll do to hook up to it. I'll probably just run wires out of the amp, in lieu of the connector.

The "Low Level" inputs are for an unamplified, line level signal ("line out" connection of a radio, portable CD player, etc). Do Not connect a greatly amplified signal to these connections.

I don't know much about the "Input Sensitivity" control (pot). I'll be leaving it on "Low" for my initial test.

The grey wires are the right speaker wires and the white wires are the left speaker wires. The grey wire with a black tracer mark is the right speaker positive (+) wire. The white wire with a black tracer is the left speaker positive (+) wire.

The blue/white wire is for attachment to your radio's "Auto Ant" (power antenna) connection (usually a orange wire, I said USUALLY). If you have a power antenna on your car, simply splice into the wire running from your radio to the antenna. This blue/white wire activates a relay in the amp which, in turn, completes the circuit through the yellow (+) power wire (See Below). - Alternative 1: You could run this wire directly to your battery with a switch to turn the amp on. You would need to place an in-line fuse of 2amp. - Alternative 2: You could connect this wire to the accessory fuse in your fuse box. If this is done, again, attach a 2amp in-line fuse for extra protection. (Note: if attached to your fuse box accessory fuse, the amp will be on even if you're not using the radio. You could have a switch here also). These are just suggestions. The most common way to connect the blue/white wire is the "Auto Antenna" wire of your radio.

The large black wire is main Ground (-) for the amp. The large yellow wire is Positive (+) power to the amp. Ideally, these should be connected straight to your battery's (+) and (-) terminals. The yellow wire on your amp should have an integral in-line fuse holder with a 7amp fuse. If not, add one. Of course, the black ground wire could simply be attached under a screw, into the body of the vehicle.

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I see so many here with no sound/nopicture issues:

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1. IF sound main fuse/s are good.
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2. RE: power supply in set: if total dead aside from main fuse the set uses astandby power supply that runs 7/24 and a main supply (some are combined andsome not.

Here aside from checking fuses you want to examine all the filter caps on thepower/standby to see if any are puffed up or buldged up in some fashion--Iattach a photo of a good one---top should be silver metal and PERFECTLY flatand have no brown material coming out on top or bottom.

What happens in the standby area is they use caps with too low a voltage rating(saves money) which causes them to fail in a year or two---the standby runs7/24 and the heat dries out the caps and they fail.

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5_17_2012_2_28_42_pm.jpg

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