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GE Washing machine motor getting hot

I have a GE WBB2090G2WW wash machine and today it stopped midway through the drain/spin cycle as I noticed my clothes were a bit more wet than usual and the motor would not engage (you could hear the relay engaging). After removing the front cover (which gave it time to cool down) I was able to get it to finish the drain/spin cycle but noticed the motor was extremely hot. Am I correct in assuming the motor is shot and will need to be replaced? Also for the past 3 or 4 weeks I had noticed what sounded like a clicking sound during the spin/drain cycle...could this be the bearings/transmission and could that be causing the motor failure? I would hate to buy a new motor and it simply be a failure that's a result of the real problem

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine stops when there is 19 minutes left!

Jeanna, you are going to have to remove the lower panel and clean the drain pump filter. Easy job, once the panel is removed the filter will be right in front. Get a bucket and unscrew the filter cover and you should find a ton of lint and stuff in there. This model has a pressure switch that detects if there is water in the tub. If so it will do this pause and slow spin. Once the pump filter is clean you should be good...Catriver...post back.

Posted on Oct 19, 2006

SolutionGuy
  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin

Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.

Posted on Sep 16, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: maytag washing machine #mav6260aw

I found the crazy sound where comes from, it was an aluminum ring in the drain pump.
First of all, I took out the belt under the bottom, checked moter to run itself, it was fine, so, I suspected some waste in somewhere, it was lucky I disassembled the drain pump first, no waste in the drain pump, but I saw a ring that was cut under the pump (seems should be connected), when I try to spin the pump wheel by hand it is broken because of the ring.
I ordered the entire drain pump on the website, the cost $74 + delivery fee, I recognized Maytag re-designed the drain pump due to the ring ( new pump does not have the ring anymore). Now the washer works fine like new.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Drum not spinning during some spin cycles

Replace the direct drive coupling.

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

Karthik316
  • 187 Answers

SOURCE: Loud clicking during spin cycle = Maytag washer PAVT234AWW

Hi,
Try these

  1. Balance the load
  2. Level the machine
  3. Inspect the water pump for a blockage
  4. Inspect the coupling
  5. Inspect the transmission
  6. Adjust the drive belt tension
  7. Check the motor bearings
  8. Check the drum brakes
pls rate my suggestion....

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

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  • If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.


  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

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