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Re: Ground Wire Hook-up
MTX has the hookup diagram here: http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products/manualsQuickInstall/amps/RTP251D_InstallSheet.pdf
If you have the original wiring harness, the ground wire is normally black. The amplifier case or chassis is ground connnected on amps I've seen as well.
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MAKE SURE YOUR GROUND WIRE IS GROUNDED GOOD,,AND IT IS IMPORTENT TO HAVE YOUR REMOTE WIRE HOOKED UP. IT WILL BE A BLUE WIRE,,FIND THE HOT WIRE FOR YOUR TAIL LIGHTS AND HOOK IT THERE THEN WHEN YOU TURN YOUR CAR ON THE AMP WILL ALSO COME ON.THAT SHOULD STOP ALL THE NOISE AND POWER YOU UP.
Bad ground sounds like you may have paint or undercoating stopping the ground from making good contact or unhook the remote wire and run a small wire from the main power to the remote hook up and see if it works ...... May have a faulty remote
If you have checked all the fuses. Trace your ground wire that goes to the frame. It may be possible your ground is no longer grounded properly. You may just need to unhook the fuse from the battery, Unhook the ground wire from the chassis and restrip, put on a new connector, chisel off the paint around where the amp was grounded to and tighten it back down. Hook back up your fuse to the battery and check and see if it removes the protect light. Also check to make sure your RCA cables aren't bad. If the RCA cables ground it'll put the amp into protect mode too. Basically just switch out the RCA cables for a good pair. If the remote wire on the amp is touching the ground, it'll throw the protect light too. That's pretty much the extent, unless the amp has a short inside it.
Generally if an amp goes straight into protection, the amp is not grounded well enough. Either you should find a new location to ground the amp to or unhook the power wire from the battery, remove the ground wire from the chassis of your vehicle. Strip the paint from the chassis, since it doesn't conduct electricity, and remove any corrosion or copper shielding from the ground connector. reground to a solid metal location Can be grounded to the brace behind the back seat or to the seat belt bolt for best results. An amp draws a lot of power, there it needs to be grounded well. Hook back up your power wire to the battery and see if your issue is resolved.
what type of terminal is on the amp. screw or slip on type?
The plastic does not carry any type of ground. If your ground wire was melted, that means you have a 'hot' wire shorting across the ground somehow causing a short. This causes excessive heat like an 'arc' welder.
You might want to check your power wire to make sure its not making any contact to ground. Make sure any foreign debris is not causing a 'bridge' between the 2 posts.
If your terminals (or place where you hook up power and ground wires) are in good shape, re-wire and turn on the unit.
positive (1 guage) from main battery to second battery positive terminal. hook all amps positive to second battery and hook 2nd battery ground to frame of car (where amp is now grounded) if you have a 2nd battery a cap is a waste of money. make sure all grounds (battery and amps) are together on same ground point of car, do not ground amps to battery - ground everything to 1 spot on the frame or body of the car ! - yes you can pigtail remote leads.
What kind of "Clips" did you put on? They may be causing too much resistance and preventing the amp from getting the current it needs. Double-check with a voltmeter that you are getting at least 12 volts at the amp power connections and make sure your ground lead is as short as possible and connected to solid metal of the vehicle's chassis.
First of all, you MUST HOOK UP YOUR GROUND WIRE FIRST. You may have damaged it if you hooked your power and trigger wire first and then the ground wire. Unhook EVERYTHING except the hot wire, ground wire and trigger wire. If you still can't get the unit to come on then it is time for a trip to the repair shop. Good luck.