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Do I have to remove the fuel tank? Is there a special tool needed? I can get the carbs completely free but can't seem to remove them between the cylinder heads and bike frame (not enough room). I did not remove the cylinder mount flange (not sure if this is what it is called) that goes between the cylinder intake and carburetor or rubber seals inside the cylinder flange mount that seal the carburetors. Is this necessary ?? Thanks for any assistance!!!
Thanks so much for the suggestion. I will give it a try and let you know how it went !! I was suspicious there may be a problem in that the Yamaha serice manual I have explains how to rebuild the carbs but nothing on how to remove them. Thanks again !!!!Thanks so much for the suggestion. I will give it a try and let you know how it went !! I was suspicious there may be a problem in that the Yamaha serice manual I have explains how to rebuild the carbs but nothing on how to remove them. Thanks again !!!!
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If you can get or cut an allen key that will fit the bolts holding the inlet manifold(the rubber things between carbs and engine)then you could try taking those off. Otherwise you may have to drop te engine.
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The carbs are plugged and need to be completely disassembled and cleaned out along with the tank and petcock. If the tank has any rust it remove the tank and put a tank liner kit in it. Most cycle shops and online stores will/may have the liner kit. The carbs will easily plug up with the new formulated gas even sometimes in less than a years time. If you are not familiar with the cleaning process, it is best to take it to a dealer ship or mechanic. Some carbs have jets inside that will have orifice as small as .010 inch. Most home mechanics or "do it your selfers" will not have tool that can clean those size jets.
The carb is running too lean, statrt by replacing the fuel filter in the tank, check for any fuel leaks from the hoses, if this checks out ok, you need to richen the fuel mixture on the L and H screw on the carb, depending on which carb is fitted you may need a special tool to adjust the mixture screws, turn each screw out ( anti clockwise ) 1/4 turn and try again.
This is classic fuel starvation, replace the fuel filter in the tank, check the fuel hoses from the tank to the carb for signs of leaking or slits and cracks, failing that you may need to adjust the fuel mixture, there is a special tool to adjust the mixture screws, part no. 530035560 ( try the web for sellers ) once you have the tool unscrew the H screw 1/4 turn to adjust the upper fuel supply.
Sounds like you have connected the pipes correctly, the primer pulls fuel from the carb and dumps it back to the tank, your problem is fuel starvation, so if you have not already done so replace the fuel filter in the tank, if this does not help remove the alluminium pump cover from the carb, there is normally one screw securing this, under here you will find the gasket and the pump diaphram, in that order, in the base of the carb is a fuel screen, make sure this is clear, if this does not help you may have an air leak through a gaget or crank seal, this will be more difficult to trace without special tools, the carb adjusting tool for the splined type screws is 53035560, check out the web for sellers.
This is probably a fuel-related issue, not a mechanical one. With the choke on you are enriching the gas/oil fuel mixture to the engine. This indicates that the carb is probably set too "lean" which can cause poor idling, acceleration and even mechanical damage to the engine due to lack of lubrication esp. at full throttle. Running it with the choke on will have ill effects also. You may need a diaghram or carb rebuild kit. Check condition of fuel filter in the gas tank and the fuel lines themselves. Take the covers off the carb (paying attention to location of gaskets and diaghrams) and spray liberally with non-flammable brake parts cleaner. Don't blow out the passages with high PSI strength air and don't soak the carburetor in carb or parts cleaner....then let dry, re-install and try to start and run. The Low and High speed mixture screws can be adjusted on these. You can buy the special tool or make one out of steel brake line tubing or 22 gauge female disconnect wired spade terminals stuck on thje end of a screwdriver...or you can remove them completely (notijg how many turns it took to remove them) and cut notches in them for use with a regular screwdriver...I just think the carb needs some cleaning and minor adjusting and it may work....if not rebuild it or get a new carb.
WARNING: Do not carry personal electronic devices such as cell phones, pagers or audio equipment of any type when working on or near any fuel-related components. Highly flammable mixtures are always present and may be ignited. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury. WARNING: Fuel in the fuel system remains under high pressure even when the engine is not running. Before repairing or disconnecting any of the fuel system components, the fuel system pressure must be relieved to prevent accidental spraying of fuel causing personal injury or a fire hazard.
Release the fuel system pressure. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
Release the fuel tank filler cap and position it aside.
CAUTION: Upon removing the special tool, the fitting on the end of the hose can become detained by the one way flapper valve. Carefully remove the hose using a gentle agitating motion to avoid detaching the hose from the fitting. NOTE: The special tool must be inserted into the fuel tank filler pipe until the fitting on the end of the hose enters into the fuel tank spout, opening the one way flapper valve. Insert the special tool into the fuel tank filler pipe.
NOTE: This step will remove approximately 1/8 tank of the fuel from a completely full fuel tank and the majority of any residual fuel in the fuel tank filler pipe. Attach the fuel storage tanker to the special tool and remove as much fuel as possible from the fuel tank and fuel tank filler pipe.
Remove the rear seat lower cushion. For additional information, refer to Section 501-10.
Position the carpet and/or any insulation covering the fuel pump module access cover.
Remove the 4 screws and the fuel pump module access cover.
Disconnect the fuel pump module electrical connector.
Disconnect the fuel supply tube-to-fuel pump module quick connect coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00.
Using the special tool, remove the fuel pump module lock ring retainer.
CAUTION: The fuel pump module must be handled carefully to avoid damage to the float arm. CAUTION: Place absorbent pads on the floor pan in the immediate area in case of fuel spills. Carefully remove the fuel pump module from the vehicle to avoid fuel spillage inside the vehicle. CAUTION: The fuel pump module will have residual fuel remaining internally, drain into a suitable container Completely remove the fuel pump module from the fuel tank.
CAUTION: Inspect the mating surfaces of the fuel pump module flange and the fuel tank O-ring seal contact surfaces. Do not polish or adjust the O-ring seal contact area of the fuel tank flange or the fuel tank. Install a new fuel pump module or fuel tank if the O-ring seal contact area is bent, scratched or corroded. CAUTION: Make sure to install a new fuel pump module O-ring seal. Install a new lock ring if it is bent, damaged or corroded. NOTE: To install, apply clean engine oil to the O-ring seal. Remove the fuel pump module O-ring seal.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
Make sure the alignment tab on the fuel pump module and the fuel tank meet before tightening the fuel pump module lock ring.
There are two metal straps that hold the tank in the vehicle. First you will need to disconnect the filler neck from the tank and any other black vent hoses that will pose a problem. Place a floor jack under the fuel tank and remove 2 bolts (1 in each strap). Then carefully lower the tank. You will need a special tool for the actual fuel lines where they are connected to the pump. It is called a quick disconnect tool. Once the tank is free of the vehicle you will see the pump housing on top. Most likely has about 8-8mm bolts that will need removed-and there is your fuel pump.. Labor guide calls for 2hrs -normally takes about 45mins to complete..
sounds like you have a dirty and/or sticking float in the carb. Obviously you have gas flowing out of the tank. but not from carb to engine. This engine is used in dirt so the fuel system is especially suseptible to dirt, especially if you haven't changed your air filter very much. Easy easy and inexpensive fix...usually free if you have some basic tools. Remove the bottom of the float bowl (and be prepared to shut fuel off) and look in the bottom of it. If you can see visible dirt then clean out your carb with some good carb cleaner. The float should fall freely to the down position and fuel should be coming out as it is a gravity feed system (since you said hose goes from tank to carb there is no fuel pump). Shut off fuel, remove fuel hose from carb and blow air through the fuel port with the float bowl still off. This should help get any dirt out of that part of the system. At this point you can put the float bowl back on, fuel hose back on and fuel turned back on and try to start. If you still get nothing, you will need to completely remove the carb and do a cleaning job at the prots and adjustment screws. Depending on how old this motor is, this would be a good time to invest $20-$30 to get a carb rebuild kit and replace all gaskets and seals...doing this also gives you a chance to do a deep cleaning. Good luck, this project should take roughly 1 hr to do completely
Ok... If you have any experience with carbs, you can get a rebuild kit. The most important part of any rebuild is to clean out obstructions in the passageways. Most times this can be done by using carb cleaner and spraying compressed air through them.Most times, just spraying cleaner into carb while installed is a waste of time as debris usually consists mainly of fine rust particles from inside the fuel tank, which will remain in the fuel bowl unless physically removed. If you can't do this, next best option is to search local junkyards for a similar unit. When replacing, cut the fuel line in a convenient place ahead of the carb inlet and put an aftermarket filter in the line, to prevent debris from re-entering and causing further problems. Most carbs have the adjustments blocked off. before using, it is wise to have someone who knows how to remove those plugs, do this for you so you can adjust it after installed. Good luck
Thanks so much for the suggestion. I will give it a try and let you know how it went !! I was suspicious there may be a problem in that the Yamaha serice manual I have explains how to rebuild the carbs but nothing on how to remove them. Thanks again !!!!
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