Question about Garden
Lots of gas coming out of muffler and spark plug port
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Also be sure to check and clean your spark arrestor in the exaust,if you have one installed on your engine.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Apr 27, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
As a service center for Poulan products the usual problems for not starting I see is compression or the cylinder has come loose from the crankcase. Compression needs to be 115 psi minimum. If you remove the plastic muffler cover you can see the cylinder-crankcase joint. Wiggle the spark plug to look for any movement at that joint. If there is any movement the cylinder screws are loose.
Poulan has an excellent 2 year warranty and any service center should be happy to repair it under warranty for any problem.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
Ok. Good job on doing what you could, right off! The simplest things are the most overlooked, and the most unforgiving.
So, you know your plug is wet, so you got some fuel flow.
Now let's figure out the plug no-fire problem. (This is under the assumption you haven't beat on this blower with a sledge-hammer at one point. The whole "key-way" is fried thing.)
1. Grab ahold of that plug THEN crank away. One time will tell you yes or no on spark. No, I am not joking, and yes, it is better than staring at the end of a plug and wondering if your eyes are bad.
In fact, better than a cup of coffee......in a bad way.
2. Check your kill switch. It is either: Grounding, or Open (open like it should be, UNTIL you push it, click it, or slide it, whatever you got). One CHEAP and fast way: Unhook the kill switch.
Then crank away. No spark? Not the kill switch then!
3. Check your spark plug GROUND. Let's say you got some shocking results from grabbing onto that bad boy. NOW check where the plug meets the cylinder head when she is screwed down in there. Believe it or not.....if it is funky, she won't ground right!
Hence, no worky.
4. You got no spark at all.....STILL. Let's look over your Spark Plug WIRE. Is she wore through? Is SHE grounding out? Has she heat failed? Then do #5.
5. STILL no spark. Let's check the last 2 things......
Rotor Magnets, and Magneto (ignition coil).
IF you have a volt/multi-meter, hook her up to the plug wire. No juice = Bad Magneto, or Bad Plug Wire. SOME juice = Good Magneto, but Bad Plug Wire (in some mowers/weedeaters, etc., remember that the Magneto is where the kill switch hooks too.
See if it is somehow grounding you out, by being loose but still touching the cylinder, etc.)
6. Failing Magneto. This can happen, and it does. You get SOME juice, just not ENOUGH juice. 2-Strokes make a lot of heat, even Magneto's give up the ghost after a while, sometimes. In this case, find a replacement!
Posted on May 30, 2009
Alright, remember that 2-Stroke motors are meant to do 2 things:
Break down, then Frustrate you.
So, here we go: (Electrical)
Rotor Magnets, Magneto (ignition coil), Spark Plug Wire, Spark Plug, Spark Plug Ground (Cylinder Head).
In that order!
Check your "fire" from the Magneto:
1. Check your Kill Switch. In other words, leave everything normal, and unhook it. Did she start? Kill Switch it is! Kill Switch/Wire comes from the Magneto (single wire/ground) to the Switch itself. So check that wire AT the Magneto (Is it loose and grounding out? Is the Kill Switch grounding you out where it is, because of crud, junk, or because it is touching the block when it is not supposed to?)
2. Check your Spark Plug Wire. Easy, unook it from the plug, stick your finger in, give it a crank (non-MultiMeter way). Did you get shocked? Then it ain't your Plug Wire and Magneto!
With a Multi-/Volt Meter, simply hook her up, and check for juice WHEN you pull the rope. If you got juice, it ain't your Plug Wire or Magneto!
Checking Spark the "normal" way: Grab the Plug with a pair of insulated pliers, hold the plug end against the cylinder head, and pull your rope. Any Spark? What color?
3. STILL no fire. It leaves: Magneto and Plug Wire.
Luckily, they are both in the same place! Tear your blower down, and check to see if the Magneto has slipped out of place (gap is WAY out), or if the Plug Wire has worn to the point it is grounding you out. While you are there, check your Kill Switch wire, to see if she is grounding you out then and there.
4. STILL no fire. That means: Magneto Failing, or Magneto JUNK.
Buy another one, replace it! (Or steal one from another junk Blower/Weedeater. These things are fairly standard, and easy!)
Or, Bad Plug Wire. Meaning she has failed out on you.
Wait......that means: Replace your Magneto! Lucky the things are built together right?
Posted on May 30, 2009
As long as it has fire, all you need to do is:
Check the fuel lines for cracks/breaks. If this is o.k., then you will need to disassemble the carburetor and spray with carb. cleaner. Use a Den Tek Brush,
(http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152), to clean the small portals in carb. Make sure the small screen in carb. is free of debris.
If you still have trouble after this, then you will need to buy a carb. kit and replace all appropriate parts.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
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