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My New LG T1007TEFT0 top loading washer's drum rotates for few seconds, then produces grinding noise and stops

I bought this washer yesterday and installed it correctly according to manual. The drum fills in water, then it starts to agitate very slowly which is way too slow for a washer while producing alot of noise, then it stops rotating and would produce grinding noise. I tried 5 times with tub half loaded with laundry but same happens and would not wash. Additionally, Quickwash and Wool programs show timer but the rest of the programs show "F" on control panel. I don't know if its normal.

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  • Washing Mach... Master
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Since it is brand new, have it replaced

Posted on Apr 26, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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the dr
  • 447 Answers

SOURCE: grinding noise when drum rotates

may be a foreign object trapped in between the inner and outer tub. Major Disassembly required to split the outer tub. May also be the rear bearing in which case back half will have to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 04, 2007

  • 1122 Answers

SOURCE: Machine doesnot agitate or drain once filled with water

it sounds like a bad lid switch if it will not drain or spin,the switch controls that-mike

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool washing machine makes grinding noise

Hello Friend, Your solution is a real quick fix. The problem you are having is very common, your motor coupling has broken and that is what's making the grinding sound, also in this condition it will always pump out the water. Go to your local appliance parts store and purchase a new motor coupler, your cost should be under $25. It's very simple to remove old and install new coupler. First remove two screws from control panel and tilt control panel backwords exposing area under panel. You will see a metal clip on each side of cabinet under panel. Remove these clips, and unplug wires from plug in on cabinet. Remove cabinet by lifting up in back and tilting forward. Once removed you will see the innerworkings of your washer. Lay washer on it's back and remove the two spring clips that hold water pump in place and remove water pump. Leave water pump hooked up just move to side out of your way. Then you will remove the two screws that hold the motor clips in place and just snap the motor clips off. Be sure to unplug the wire harness plug from the motor. Just simply lift the motor straight up and off of the transmission. There you will see the motor coupler broken and to replace, just pry old one off transmission and motor with large flat head screwdriver. You will notice that one half of coupler is attached to the motor and the other to transmission. In the coupler kit you will receive both pieces and the rubber center connector. Just replace all the old with all the new and your problem will be solved. Happy to help, Tim.

Posted on Jun 24, 2009

honeymokey
  • 3113 Answers

SOURCE: WHIRLPOOL TOP LOAD WASHER MAKING GRINDING NOISE FOR AGITATION

When you put the motor in did you replace the coupler between the motor and transmission? When fixing the agitator you need to get the agitator repair kit, It has seals, dogs,thrust plate, cam bearing and seals. The upper agitator is supposed to move only in one direction to get the clothes to move down towards the agitator. Do not overload machine. I have one of these and after 12 years I finally had to install this upper repair kit because the upper agitator quit moving. You may have an agitate cam that is going bad inside the transmission

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool washer agitator not working

HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.

The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.

Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.

Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.

There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.

Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.

**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))


AGITATOR REMOVAL GUIDE


The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.

Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.

Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.

If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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LG direct drive washer makes loud grinding noise


Check presence a stranger subject in drum. Shine the torch and swing the drum.
If rubbish no that necessary to change the bearings.

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Ok my LG front loading washer agitates but when it comes to spin it makes a very irritating high grinding noise and does not spin. There is no error displayed but that may be because I stop it before it...


I have a similar problem. The washer was showing error code UE, but would tumble when empty in test mode, but would not spin and made a grinding noise. The bolt that attaches the rotor to the motor was loose and the rotor was spinning on the spindle that rotates the drum. I tightened the bolt, and it spins when empty, but still gives a UE error code when full. Remove the rear cover and check the tightness of the center bolt.

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I have a zanussi washer/dryer but lately its making so much noise !! its driving me nuts please tell me what it could be ?? thanks


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. If your washer is a front load washer then check these things if it is making noise--
Bellows
The bellows is a rubber sleeve that seals the suspended outer tub to the stationary cabinet front at the tub opening. Its purpose is to provide a water tight opening into the tub that can be sealed by the cabinet door, yet allow flexibility for the oscillation of the tub during the wash and spin cycles.
Outer Tub Assembly
The outer tub assembly is supported by two suspension springs and stabilized by two air shock assemblies. A cement counter weight is mounted to the front of the outer tub by screws. A counterweight is molded into the rear half of the outer tub. These counterweights prevent excessive oscillation of the entire suspended assembly during an unbalanced spin cycle.
Spin Basket Assembly
The spin basket is constructed of stainless steel. The circumference of the basket is perforated to allow water to flow through it as it revolves. A heavy steel shaft is pressed into the spin basket support which is then bolted to the basket. The spin basket assembly is entirely supported by two ball bearings pressed into the rear of the outer tub. A large drive pulley is mounted to the free end of the shaft that extends through the rear of the outer tub. There are three plastic vanes mounted to the spin basket to aid in the washing action during the wash cycle. The rotation of the spin basket provides both the washing action during the wash cycle, and water extraction during the spin cycle.


High pitch "jet engine" noise--A certain amount of motor whine is normal during the spin cycle.


Rattling and clanking noise--
• Foreign objects such as coins or safety pins may be in drum or pump. Stop washer and check drum. If noise continues after washer is restarted, objects may be in pump.
• Belt buckles and metal fasteners are hitting wash drum. To prevent unnecessary noise and damage to drum, fasten fasteners and turn items inside out.

Squealing sound or hot rubber odor-- Washer is overloaded. Do not overload washer. Stop washer and reduce load.

Thumping sound— Heavy wash loads may produce a thumping sound. This is usually normal. If sound continues, washer is probably out of balance. Stop washer and redistribute wash load.

Vibrating noise--
• Washer is not resting firmly on floor. Move washer so it rests firmly on floor. Adjust leveling legs. NOTE: Some shaking of the washer is normal without moving across the floor. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for details.
• Shipping bolts and foam blocks have not been removed during installation. See INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS for removing shipping bolts and foam blocks.
• Wash load unevenly distributed in drum. Stop washer and rearrange wash load.


Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee



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1 Answer

I have an LG Tromm wm1812cw washing machine and besides all the mold and mildew problems it has, it is now making weird sounds when it spins or rotates the load. It is intermittent and doesn't always code...


With a 10 year warranty on their direct drive washer motor, eliminating a clutch or transmission, those enerty star LG's generally preform very well. (one of my customers runs 10 loads a day, 365 days a year in his)
Sounds like the shaft may have seperated from the three spider arms which actually turn the drum. To remove, you may have to grind end of bolt off motor shaft to facilitate dissassembly. It's a rather involved process. Prevent future mold and mildew issues by cleaning out the drain filter and then using a front load washer cleaner on longest, hottest cycle with no clothes (like ahfresh or washer magic, or whirlaway hot tub cleaner, to name a few.) then use not more that one tablespoon of HE detergent and a max of a teaspoon of fabric softener (if you use it) per load, as these machines are using very little water. (when you split the tub to replace the drive spider, use a pressure washer to clean out the inside of the outer drum and the back side of the inner tub) BTW, I have not found any reason to not stick with my LG washer and dryer. My seven year old set worked many a load, and still works great.

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Hi there!

The problem is probably the main drum bearing at the back.

Isolate power and water supplies.

The top will have to come off,(screws along top edge at back), then the motor mount slackened to remove the belt. Then try rotating the drum by hand, If the noise is still there, check for any items lodged between metal drum, and the outer plastic wash tub. If everything is clear, The noise will be from the rear bearing, which needs to be replaced.

I can assist you further with this.

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Grinding noise when drum rotates


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