Question about Washing Machines
I bought this washer yesterday and installed it correctly according to manual. The drum fills in water, then it starts to agitate very slowly which is way too slow for a washer while producing alot of noise, then it stops rotating and would produce grinding noise. I tried 5 times with tub half loaded with laundry but same happens and would not wash. Additionally, Quickwash and Wool programs show timer but the rest of the programs show "F" on control panel. I don't know if its normal.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: grinding noise when drum rotates
may be a foreign object trapped in between the inner and outer tub. Major Disassembly required to split the outer tub. May also be the rear bearing in which case back half will have to be replaced.
Posted on Oct 04, 2007
Hello Friend, Your solution is a real quick fix. The problem you are having is very common, your motor coupling has broken and that is what's making the grinding sound, also in this condition it will always pump out the water. Go to your local appliance parts store and purchase a new motor coupler, your cost should be under $25. It's very simple to remove old and install new coupler. First remove two screws from control panel and tilt control panel backwords exposing area under panel. You will see a metal clip on each side of cabinet under panel. Remove these clips, and unplug wires from plug in on cabinet. Remove cabinet by lifting up in back and tilting forward. Once removed you will see the innerworkings of your washer. Lay washer on it's back and remove the two spring clips that hold water pump in place and remove water pump. Leave water pump hooked up just move to side out of your way. Then you will remove the two screws that hold the motor clips in place and just snap the motor clips off. Be sure to unplug the wire harness plug from the motor. Just simply lift the motor straight up and off of the transmission. There you will see the motor coupler broken and to replace, just pry old one off transmission and motor with large flat head screwdriver. You will notice that one half of coupler is attached to the motor and the other to transmission. In the coupler kit you will receive both pieces and the rubber center connector. Just replace all the old with all the new and your problem will be solved. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
When you put the motor in did you replace the coupler between the motor and transmission? When fixing the agitator you need to get the agitator repair kit, It has seals, dogs,thrust plate, cam bearing and seals. The upper agitator is supposed to move only in one direction to get the clothes to move down towards the agitator. Do not overload machine. I have one of these and after 12 years I finally had to install this upper repair kit because the upper agitator quit moving. You may have an agitate cam that is going bad inside the transmission
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
HI. the internal components that make up the agitator should be inspected for damage.
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction. Another issue that might cause this disruption is the Motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
**(((If the motor couple is in good condition, replace the agitator components and clutch assembly as well.)))
AGITATOR REMOVAL GUIDE
The agitator is fastened to the agitator shaft and its movement is driven either by splines or a simple clutch assembly, which is removable as well. The splines are usually plastic or rubber nubs on a cylinder that fits over the agitator shaft. If the nubs wear down, the shaft will not turn properly or it will turn weakly. If the agitator is moving in only one direction, the likely cause is the clutch assembly. The clutch has dogs that depress and pop up with each turn. If those dogs are worn, they will not engage properly and the agitator will turn only in one direction.
Various makes and models differ in how the agitator is removed. In some newer models, the agitator just lifts straight up and out. However, in most models you will have to preform a combination of the following steps. First remove the fabric softener dispenser, if any. It should either lift or screw off. Next remove the cap. It may lift off, screw off or failing that, it may need to be pried off.
Beneath the cap some agitators are secured in place by a bolt. Use a socket wrench with an extension to remove that bolt. Some Maytags may have a screw near to the bottom of the agitator post that must be removed. Now try to lift the agitator straight up, possibly with a little back and forth rocking motion. Use caution when pulling, the agitator may come loose suddenly and hit you in the face or send you flying backward.
If the agitator is particularly stubborn, you can loop some rope under one side of the agitator at the bottom and then up over a broom handle. Now loop it again under the other side of the agitator and back up to the broom. Brace one end of the broom handle against the top of the washer and lift up on the other end. Double check that you have removed anything that may be securing the agitator in place. Do not use too much force or you may damage the washer cabinet, agitator or injure yourself.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
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The inner tub on some machines does rotate very slowly while filling to assist with the even distibution of the load. If the agitator is turning back & forth while in fill mode, you could have a timer or transmission problem. You need a tech.
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