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HOW DO I DO A RESISTANCE CHECK ON A ELECTRO VOICE T350 T VHF DRIVER TWEETER

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Toufic Malek
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SOURCE: Speaker act more like tweeter only, not mid range + tweeter

They are mid Hi speakers.1st Open them and check if the mid speakers are ok maybe they are defected or the protection is open. Good Luck Toufic Malek

Posted on Sep 28, 2007

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2 Answers

Tweeter wires burns up tweeter when connect to it


I'm Serge.I'm a professionnel electro-tecnicien with my diploma. Anyone who have a question,i'll answer,FREE . i have my reasons for doing this. You are getting cc or dc voltage in your tweeter and it blows.Your tweetter amps is defect.Make it fix and be carefull.That type of circuit is very very sensible and technic and double layer printed circuit.By the way check the bass amp also.Thank's Serge.

Dec 20, 2012 | Behringer Eurolive B212A Speaker

1 Answer

JBL speaker's woofer occasionally cuts out - tweeter still works.


Your driver has a damaged voice coil, you can either find a speaker repairer to replace the voice coil or find a replacement driver to fit.

Mar 05, 2012 | JBL Northridge Package System

1 Answer

One of my MR8's has only its tweeter working, im guessing the bass driver might be blown? How can i test this though and be sure it is the bass driver and not just a simple electrical fault?


Open the unit and remove one wire from one of the woofer terminals and using an ohmmeter check the resistance between the terminals. It probably should be between 6 and 16 ohms... they don't give the specs on the speaker... if it is very high or infinite resistance, the voice coil is blown and you be re-coning or buying new speaker. These are close in speakers and intended for a small room for studio listening while mixing. If the speaker is OK, then the bass amp in the cabinet has a failure... pray, as that is cheaper to repair than a speaker.

Sep 22, 2011 | Mackie MR8 150W 8 Active Two-Way Studio...

1 Answer

No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

Feb 23, 2011 | M-Audio BX5a Speaker

1 Answer

Tweeter is cutting in and out


need to open up speaker and check connections on tweeter. Check closely on tiny wires from magnet(voice coil) to paper cone

Jan 04, 2011 | Samson Resolv 65a Main / Stereo Speaker

2 Answers

The woofer on one of my speakers stopped working. The tweeter seems fine. My DMM shows that the resistance across the 2 internal leads that connect to the woofer continuously cycles from 0 through...


The voice coil is open, you can look real close at the spider wires that are soldered from the two terminals to the cone to see if they are bad, otherwise you will need new woofer, you can try getting the woofer from partsexpress.com

Feb 14, 2010 | Boston Acoustics Micro90X Speaker

1 Answer

Tweeters????


Hi oddone

You may have a problem with either blown tweeters, or a faulty cross over, or both. If you have a multimeter, you can remove the tweeter, and check it DC resistance. They normally have their impedance marked on the back of the magnet. If not, you can assume they should measure 8 ohms. If they measure open circuit (high resistance), then they have failed.
A good speaker repair guy can often fix an open circuit tweeter as they often break where the very fine wires attach from the voice coil to the terminal. you can take a turn of the voice coil and reterminate to solve this problem. If the voice coils are burnt, they will need to be replaced.
If the tweeter meters ok, then you may have a problem with the crossover capacitors going dry. Generally they are 2.2uf to 6.8uf in value, the smallest cap in the crossover. If the plastic coating on them is split, or they look a different colour to the rest of the caps, replace them, if they sound "hollow" replace em, if you are not sure, replace em. other than that there is not alot more to look for with a speaker box tweeter Good luck and happy listening.

If you have any dramas, get back to me here and we can talk more about it.

regards
Graeme

Mar 16, 2008 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

TweeTer Not working.


The only way I can think of to check is to disconnect the leads to the tweeter, then check resistance with an Ohm-meter...no reading means dead speaker.

Dec 28, 2007 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Kef Q Series iQ1 problem


You may have broken the cross over, which is fixable by an service agent, or you may have damaged the voice coil in the mid driver. you can check this by sofly pushing the main driver in, making sure that you done push the cone, if there is a lot of resistance then you have damaged the voice coil, and you will need to replace the driver.

Dec 10, 2007 | KEF Audio Cresta 2 Speaker

1 Answer

Speaker act more like tweeter only, not mid range + tweeter


They are mid Hi speakers.1st Open them and check if the mid speakers are ok maybe they are defected or the protection is open. Good Luck Toufic Malek

Sep 22, 2007 | Yamaha NS-A327 Speaker

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