Question about Kenmore Dryers
Dryer wont turn on, nothing seems to buzz or anything. We have replaced the start switch and the timer, not sure what else it could be.
Hi Busy Mom
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
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Posted on Apr 27, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
My Hotpoint dryer is seven years old and did the exact same thing. When I got over the anger and the thought of spending 4 or 5 hundred dollars to replace it I started messing with it. I finally decided that since it buzzed when I tried to start it there was current there. The only other thing it could be was the drying cycle knob.
I held the start knob and let it buzz while I slowly turned the dryer cycle knob to the right. As I turned through each cycle it would hit "off" and the buzzing would stop and then resume as I moved past the "off " setting. On the third trip around the dryer "started" and has been working since. Maybe something got out of kilter. Apparently the problem was in the knob that controls the drying cycles.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
Easy fix. I had the same problem on mine. You need access to the back. Remove back cover. Look at bottom left, you will see two blue wires going to a white plastic item next to one of the thermal sensors. This white plastic piece is a fuse, or fusible link if you like. I'm not sure what the rating is, but you can take the old one to a parts store. They can match it. Now, why did it blow? Well, if the dryer is old, it could be just worn out. But more than likely, one of your 230 volt lines has degraded due to a bad connection, thus drawing more amps, thus blowing the fuse. Look at where the power cord comes in at. Is there any discoloration or oxidation at the terminals? If so, replace the power cord at this time, and try to clean up the terminals as best you can. Also, at this time, you probably better take a look at the lint collector duct running along the left side down the back. It's probably so clogged with lint that your dryer does't dry as fast anymore, and air flow from the exhaust is restricted. Take the duct off and clean it out, or blow it out with compressed air. You should be up and running now. Have fun...
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
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