Question about Juki Garnet Line MO-623 1-Needle, 2/3 Thread Serger BONUS PACKAGE

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Juki mo 623

I'm set up to do a very narrow rolled edge, but it skips 4-5 stitches every inch or so, particularly in medium-weight fabrics. I've replaced the needle, which helped, but hasn't solved the problem. What else should I try?

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You may be using the wrong type of needle i.e size or ballpoint? check the manual as to the type and brand recommended. my janome hates anything other than the exact one stated.
If you use too small a needle or too large it will skip stitches on any machine, also if they are blunt

Posted on Sep 28, 2013

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1 Answer

Setting a elna 792d for rolled hem


I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

Jul 18, 2017 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

CANT QUILT WITH MY JUKI TENSION PROBLEMS


Okay, you've tried a lot of things. The question is this: is the thread snapping (where abouts in the path), or is it shredding at the needle? Here are a few more:

Remove the top thread, ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot, and rethread from the beginning.
Try different thread--perhaps a polyester thread like Isacord or Aurafil. (AVOID old or bargain bin thread.)
Try a different kind of needle (brand new needle!)--like a top-stitch, microtex, or embroidery. The top stitch needle has a larger scarf that will better protect the thread if shredding is the issue. (I use a special bobbin case that I've increased the tension for Isacord thread and I use the same thread in top and bobbin.) I also decrease the top tension a tad so the bobbin thread will not pull to the top. You may need to install brand-new needles several times on one quilt when they get dull.
Usually an 80 or 90 needle will work for FMQ through a fabric/batting sandwich.
Check that the needle's eye is the appropriate size for the thread (also a cause of shredding thread).
Set the upper tension at the midway point perhaps a bit looser for FMQ (this tension will probably need to be tweaked for your particular machine due to wear and age).
Use an FMQ foot and drop the feed dogs. A Supreme Slider (avlb on the internet) is very helpful in helping move the quilt while doing FMQ.
Work at a moderate but steady pace. I find a faster speed while FMQ gets me into trouble...like spots I can't get out of, overlapping stitches, or outside the quilt edge.

FWIW, I still get some skipped stitches with FMQ. Usually, it happens when I move the fabric too fast, especially around a curve. I have a tendency of speeding up while going around a curve that will cause skipped stitches or eyelashing.

I'm also wondering if there is something to do with the fabric and/or batting you are using...like is it Batik? Batik is very tightly woven and presents some particular challenges. The type of batting could be more dense, making it harder for the needle to penetrate the sandwich. Also, pulling or stretching the fabric can cause skipped stitches.

Basic Maintenance Tension Skipped Stitches

Here What to Do if Your Sewing Machine is Skipping Stitches

10 reasons for skipped stitches

If you see no improvement in your machine's stitching, you may want to have it serviced.

Good luck!

Apr 28, 2017 | Juki Sewing Machines

1 Answer

My juki MO-644 serger is threaded but the stitches are not correct. How do I adjust the numbers to get the correct stitch?


What I do: Load each spool with a different color thread. Stitch several inches and examine threads. Adjustment can be done more easily when you can see what each thread is doing. Settings change for different types of stitches. Get your manual to see what settings for stitch you are trying to produce.

Mar 03, 2014 | Juki Garnet Line MO-644D 2-Needle, 2/3/4...

1 Answer

My Juki MO-655 serger will sew a few inches then the needle thread becomes disengaged in the stitch process. The machine will sew a few inches more then stops making stitches. I have cleaned the thre


Make sure you are threading the machine correctly. Make sure you are using serger thread that isn't old. Make sure you are undoing all the threads when it breaks and thread it from the beginning.

Make sure you have the right needles in their respective places. My Juki MO has two different size needles.

Sep 02, 2012 | Juki MO-655 Mechanical Sewing Machine

3 Answers

Juki MO-634DE Stiching


I tried to find this on the Juki website but its obviously a previous model so not much info on there. But did find it listed elsewhere as a 3/4 thread overlocker.

So I'd guess at the following, it probably seams a four thread marrow (overlock seam) made with two needles and two loopers. And a three thread overlock seam where you use either the left or right needle, this would give you either a narrow or wider 3 thread seam. Image below of 3 and 4 thread overlock seams.
1_10_2012_11_24_03_pm.jpg

Lastly, I would suggest that the D denotes Differential feed, this is a feature that controls the two feed dogs in the machine and gives you the ability to set them to move at different speeds - very handy to control the fabric feeding but also used decoratively for lettuce edging.

Rolled hem - most overlockers of 3/4 variety will also do a rolled hem; however, I can't actually confirm if this model does or not. But look around for a retractable stitch ****** in the foot or needle plate or a second needle plate in the accessory case. Rolled hemming is also very useful and most models will do it now; just variation in how you actually set it up to do so. Bernettes you flick a lever in front of the needle/foot area, earlier Elnas like the L3 and L4 you needed to change the needle plate and a little ****** in the presser foot.

Of course, you could email the local distributor for Juki in your country and ask them and this may be the best way to check. Just copy this into your browser
http://www.juki.co.jp/juki_form/home_e/toiawase_form.html to go to their contact us page.

Jan 10, 2012 | Juki Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to use the differential adjustment knob on the Juki MO-644D. Not seeing instruction in the manual


Found the manual here on features page http://jukihome.com/products/mo644d.html
Differntial feeding is covered on page 25, and the diagram showing location of the differential feed knob and stitch length knobs inside the cloth plate is on page 2.

So swing open the left cover (cloth plate) to access these controls.

Differential feed means you change the feeding speed of the two feed dogs so the front one feeds at a different speed to the back one. Effectively, this either streches the fabric as you seam, or pushes the fabric together as you seam. So if you want to do a rolled hem "lettuce" edge you are stretching the fabric with the differential feed to achieve this, turn the numbers up. If you are sewing a loose knit and it is "waving" then turn the diff feed down to 0.7 or so to squeeze the fabric back together.

That's basically it! Like anything on an overlocker, test sew, adjust, test sew, adjust until you are getting the right effect.

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2 Answers

I bought a second hand Juki industrial machine , model DDL 5550-7, but struggle to get the tension of the stitches right. where do you set the lower stitches tension


upper tension sets the lower thread tension (upper thread is what you see on the underside of the fabric). Bobbin tension is for the thread you see on the top of the fabric

Jul 01, 2009 | Juki MO-644D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Not problem-question


Different stitch lengths are used depending on what you're sewing. I would say 2.5 is the "normal", "average" stitch length for basic sewing. If there are certain types of fabric you're using that ravel or come apart easily, you would use a smaller stitch length, which means more stitches per inch. If you want to just baste fabric together without having a permanent seam, you woould use the highest number, to have the least amount of stitches per inch.

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2 Answers

Rolled hem on chiffon


Turn under the edge just about 1/4" and do a rolled edge then you can go back and trim off any of the folded under fabric that may show. Also, this keeps the hem from pulling away so easily. You may also try putting some water soluble stabilizer under the fabric before you serge.

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